jbs550 Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I am building a pub table for a friend that is going to have bottle caps set into the top. Looking at doing a fill with epoxy and wanted to pick your brains to see if anyone had a suggestion for a good one to use. attached a picture of the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I'm going to place a bet that, other than this reply, you're going to get "West Systems" at least once. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I'd use West System. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Just be careful mixing-up large quantities of WS -- quite a bit of heat can be generated if you don't work quickly... I once ruined a piece with a small bubbling WS volcano... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs550 Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 That's what I am worried about. Anyone with suggestions for application/tips/tricks, would be appreciated. Haven't done this before and would hate to spend this much time on a project and then screw it up at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs550 Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 BTW- decided to make the center area for the bottle caps significantly shallower, a little under 1/2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levi Rathje Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I would put the caps in a thin layer of epoxy then cover the rest in Enviro-tex. It is the stuff you get that is equal to 50 coats of varnish. You pour it on and then take a propane torch over the top and it will pop all the little air bubbles and be glassy smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 i did something like this but with small braches cut into discs. i then fit them all in and then poured in two part epoxy. what i used was something similar to this http://www.menards.com/main/interior-wood-care/specialty-wood-finishes/envirotex-lite-pour-on-high-gloss-finish-32-ounces/p-1462525-c-13129.htm because of all the small pieces in there there is lots of places for bubble to form so make sure you heat it well as you are pouring it to get rid of any bubbles. also make shure all your joints are sealed. when i made my table i had epoxy running down the legs and it was a mess and a pain to clean up. perhaps you can use compressed air to find any gaps where the epoxy could run rampent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I would not use epoxy. Casting resin performs much better and is made for the job. Go to tap plastics web site. They also have instructional videos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I would not use epoxy. Casting resin performs much better and is made for the job. Go to tap plastics web site. They also have instructional videos. I would not use casting resin. It is probably not the best choice for a table top. To encase coins, flowers and craft stuff for decorations that sit on tables, yes then ok. But this is a table top/bar top and is going to get a lot of abuse. I have a buddy who did an epoxy bar top with golf score cards, pictures and ball markers, still looks great. Epoxy would be my choice. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Epoxy? Casting resin? The difference is purely nomenclature. The Key word is casting. Casting resins are made for just that, and flow better. Casting resins are designed to be cast thick and clear unlike west epoxy. If you want a product that is made for the job and must have the word epoxy in its name epoxy systems #214 is the stuff which is table and bar top casting resin. The tap casting resin is rated for commercial bar and table tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I actually would be a bit concerned about mixing that amount of WS, like H3 said. I was using some over the weekend, and just about 3/4" left over in a Dixie cup started smoking and melted the cup after about 8-10 minutes. If you mix quickly and pour it out, I guess you can avoid this...but I wonder if a 1/2" layer of the stuff is still thick enough to produce the heat to combust. My main concern wouldn't really be damaging the piece or catching the shop on fire, but the epoxy starts to cure instantly when it reaches that temperature point, and it gets all cracked and nasty looking...definitely not something you want. FYI, I was using the 205 hardener...maybe the "slow" (207?) would be better, or the stuff Don is talking about. I've no experience with it. Either way, I'd stay away from the 205. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 ==> epoxy systems #214 I've never used it myself, but my father did a bar top with it... Results were good. I would choose it over structural epoxy (WS). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Casting resin is typically a harder/brittler product. Scratches easier and tends to chip. Epoxy adheres better to surface, resist scratching and less prone to lift and chip. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imaginos Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I actually would be a bit concerned about mixing that amount of WS, like H3 said. I was using some over the weekend, and just about 3/4" left over in a Dixie cup started smoking and melted the cup after about 8-10 minutes. If you mix quickly and pour it out, I guess you can avoid this...but I wonder if a 1/2" layer of the stuff is still thick enough to produce the heat to combust. My main concern wouldn't really be damaging the piece or catching the shop on fire, but the epoxy starts to cure instantly when it reaches that temperature point, and it gets all cracked and nasty looking...definitely not something you want. FYI, I was using the 205 hardener...maybe the "slow" (207?) would be better, or the stuff Don is talking about. I've no experience with it. Either way, I'd stay away from the 205. The documentation for the 207 extra slow hardener will tell you that it's not intended for clear coating applications (just like 205 and 206) since I suspect it'll haze after a decent thickness. Reading the specs for the extra clear hardner (pot life like 206) I'd guess that 8 oz will get hot enough to melt through a plastic cup if left unattended. Also, the slower hardners need to be kept at 70° or above while they're curing (potentially days). Bottom line is that while the 105 system is awesome at most things, encasement isn't one of them. I didn't see a useful 3M product (through an admittedly brief search) or anything else at aircraft spruse and specialty, and the MEK/MEKP family are out too (exotherms), so the Epoxy systems 214 that TripleH mentioned above has the best numbers (on paper), especially since that's exactly what it's intended for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 I love to use West System, but it was never designed for pouring and filling large areas. It also has a yellow cast to it (they may have a clear version but I have never seen it). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 I'm going to place a bet that, other than this reply, you're going to get "West Systems" at least once. +1 on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 ==> It also has a yellow cast unlike 205/206, 207 is pretty clear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 They are all epoxies wether they say casting resin or not. Casting resin just means they are made for that job. West can be poured but is yellow and west does have instruction on their website on how they recommend you do this. Epoxy systems 214 was designed as a casting resin but is useful on floors to fill dips it is very durable, more durable than west. I had the 214 on the floor of my spray booth. The tap plastics has about the same duability as the west but is clear I did table tops for a sea food place 10 years ago with it and the tops are still in great shape. The best stuff on the market is tarbender it holds up better than the rest to bleach and ammonia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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