nod Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Someone on another thread made a great point that got me thinking. He buys the hi quality new so he can get straight to work without wasting the time to try and bring something old back to life. I'm paraphrasing of course, but I have picked up a couple old/used tools that didn't quite freshen up like I thought they would, and while not a complete waste of time (I DID learn something afterall), my time could have been spent doing something more productive. Well, I picked up these swedish made chisels from an estate sale a while back before I knew any better and had discovered this site. Anyone think these are worth the effort to clean up, grind a new edge on and use? It'll take a s&*T-ton of time by the looks of those edges and if they're just too far gone, I'd rather not waste the time. But, if these appear to be decent, I'm happy to sweat a bit over them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Nod, if it were me, I'd select the one that's in the best shape and give it all you've got. Once it is something you wouldn't be embarrassed to show someone, use it and see how good it works. If it does a good job and holds an edge, then you might want to consider working on the others. Another option is to have a local sharpener do it for you, so that you don't have to take all the time yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 TR... That is great advice! Pick one and go for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 I did some Googling and found the name "SOLLIDEN-SWEDEN" that looks like these. Could not find much about their quality, but since you already own them I say go for it. TR has a great idea of trying one out to see how well it cleans up and holds an edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 what do the backs look like? The backs are what really matter, if they are relatively pit free, you are good to go. 1) derust them: I prefer to use evapo-rust. 2) flatten the back: I prefer psa sandpaper on a flat surface 3) grind the edge on a bench grinder 4) hone 5) enjoy for another 50 years 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobyC Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Absolutely yes!! They're not that bad, and should clean up nicely. Even a new chisel must be flattened and sharpened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 nod, That's a nice set of chisels. Here's my two cents. Before embarking on the flattening and heavy rust removal process give this a try. Flattening can be an important process but not perhaps essential for every job, perhaps only needed for the very finest work. For instance the the Ashley Iles Mk.2 are "ground a few thou concave". To see if your backs are concave give the backs a light rub on your sharpening medium. If you get clear metal behind the sharp edge your good. This flat area will mean any pitting is quickly removed close to your cutting edge. The only other thing I would do is a bit of rust removal with wire wool and oil and then call the rust "Patina" If you want super flat back I think I would be tempted to spend out some cash and move these on or keep them a less refined set for more hardy work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Sorry to rain on your parade, but they look like one of those used car adverts that say "three careful owners, none of them me". Great for removing bark from boards, or opening particularly difficult lids of paint tins, etc. If you do go down that road, get yourself one (the one and only useful chisel according to Chris Schwarz) decent one too. Once you've hit the pain barrier with those 1960's Volvos, at least you'll have earned your spurs to properly sharpen the decent one. (From one who spent four hours sharpening a chisel that seemed to have spent a decade in the bilges of a ship) John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobyC Posted July 13, 2013 Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 I'm really amazed at this whole thread! Have you guys never bought a used or vintage tool before? Clean and sharpen and put to wood and smile about it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 13, 2013 Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 I also was puzzling. If the chisel will not hold an edge then the steel is so soft it will hone amazingly quickly. Rust cleans away with a vinegar soak and 350 or 600 grit wet/dry. Time invested is ten minutes per chisel plus soak time. If the back is badly pitted then regrind it before switching to hand stones or paper. That might take 30 minutes for the widest chisel. Chisels are the simplest. There are no articulating parts and a complete rehab leaves you with a slightly thinner and shorter chisel at the worst. I do not mean this to be offensive, but your pay scale has to be much higher than mine to pass by cheap chisels for a hundred dollar purchase. I will gladly sit and work on chisels while "watching" a movie with my kids as it is thoughtless work. I do not lose extra shop time as my kids deserve my presence but the time is doubly effective. There are projects for me that the anticipation of the work is more damaging than the actual work. I think this must be true for rehab work in some minds. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted July 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 Interesting debate here gents. Old vs new. time vs money. which will prevail??!!! =-o lol. I'm going to dive into the least beat to hell which I believe is the 1/4. I'll give it a whirl, see how it holds up, and then decide to bother with the others or not. John@V, I do agree. They are rather worse for wear. They may just turn out to be cleaned up pry bars at the end of the day. But if they clean up well enough, at least I'll have practiced my sharpening skills on something I can't make any worse than it already is! I do appreciate all the notes and opinions here. I've been learning a lot reading through these forums, and I definitely have a better understanding of what I'm looking for when finding/buying old/used tools. Like my best friend says, "just because it's old, doesn't mean it's good" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted July 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 I did some Googling and found the name "SOLLIDEN-SWEDEN" that looks like these. Could not find much about their quality, but since you already own them I say go for it. TR has a great idea of trying one out to see how well it cleans up and holds an edge. Thanks John. I never would have found that name on my own. Looks like a 2" one in great shape is selling on toolexchange. Mine don't look anywhere near as nice, but it gives me hope they aren't junk. I will be sharpening one to see how they work either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Those look like Berg handles. EA Berg made some of the finest chisels around. They came from a centre in Sweden, Eskilstuna, which is where many of the tool makers were based. HOWEVER, I've had similar chisels that are engraved "Made in Sweden", and they were crap. Soft steel that could not hold an edge to butter bread. You could try re-tempering them, but I am not confident in the results. Regards from Perth Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.