bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 No ! Sweet. Less sanding the better! Still need to research using all this. That is for this week though while it's still freezing outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 There is something weird about mahogany stain. The minwax brand is thick and lumpy like that, too. Must be the type of pigments used to get that red-brown color. I've noticed with the minwax that mahogany takes much longer to dry than their other colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 There is something weird about mahogany stain. The minwax brand is thick and lumpy like that, too. Must be the type of pigments used to get that red-brown color. I've noticed with the minwax that mahogany takes much longer to dry than their other colors. Hmm good to know it needs longer to dry and was thicker for you too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Taking a look at my finshes and have been reading up on the issues of mixing oil bases urathane finishes on top of water based stains. I have found a couple finishes I am looking ... has anyone had any experience with these or should I look elsewhere? What would go well with my water based stain? The other thing I am curious about is ... is clear vs amber ... I know the amber will change the overall color a little, but whats the point of amber? Is it for natural wood without stain on it to help things pop a little more? I am thinking I want to stay away from the Amber and go Clear since I have stain on it? Also, everything I have seen seems to indicate I need to brush the urethane on instead of using a rag. Is that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I spray general high performance poly all the time - great product. If I'm not spraying, i use minwax wipe-on poly (solvent based). Love the wipe on style - requires no special equipment, is relatively easy, and you can build coats quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Ok stopped at woodcraft and got a can of the enduro var semi gloss. With a brush as well to help apply it. The guy there said if I was using maple to never sand past 120g or consider my maple ruined if using any stain or dye. Is that true? Also the explanation of a stain and dye was not the best with how they are used and why. Basically I got a dye soaks into the wood and a stain stays on the top layer of the wood. Now how they can be used differently and all that he had no idea and showed me a spinning test rack of what general finishes has done combining colors and that stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 The guy there said if I was using maple to never sand past 120g or consider my maple ruined if using any stain or dye. Is that true?I know you're not supposed to sand it to super high grits when using stain or dye, but I believe Charles Neil recommends 150grit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I sand to 150 orbital then 150 with the grain by hand before staining maple. I talked to my finish supplier today and he recommends dyeing first, then staining and wiping the stain back then finishing to acheive a consistent color on maple. You can thin the dye if it ends up too dark, same with the stain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I sand to 150 orbital then 150 with the grain by hand before staining maple. I talked to my finish supplier today and he recommends dyeing first, then staining and wiping the stain back then finishing to acheive a consistent color on maple. You can thin the dye if it ends up too dark, same with the stain. Perfect. I'm at 150 now. Ok I will play on my test pieces a little more. I think I found a color I like. Question. On the dye. Do you just need one coat to achieve the original color? I read a few places that the more you put on the darker it will get. then after the one start with the finish? ... If the color came out correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 If you are staining over a dye coat 1 coat should be sufficent. If you want it darker use 2 coats. It's up to you, practice first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 If you are staining over a dye coat 1 coat should be sufficent. If you want it darker use 2 coats. It's up to you, practice first. I was thinking of just dying it. Is that a bad idea to only use dye and then a top coat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 I was thinking of just dying it. Is that a bad idea to only use dye and then a top coat? That's how I did the x table. One coat of dye, let dry for a few days, and then wipe on poly. I used ash though, which is notoriously good at accepting stain and dye. Do a sample board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 That's how I did the x table. One coat of dye, let dry for a few days, and then wipe on poly. I used ash though, which is notoriously good at accepting stain and dye. Do a sample board! Good to know. I got a sample board going with 3 test colors now. Going to apply top coat tomorrow to see how well it brings out everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 My dye is acetone based and must be sprayed, but it's dry for stain in an hour or 2. So I dont have much input on the waterbourne stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 My dye is acetone based and must be sprayed, but it's dry for stain in an hour or 2. So I dont have much input on the waterbourne stuff. Ya this says 2-3 hours of the temp is 70 degrees. If colder possibly up to 6-8 hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 I always let stain/dye sit a day or two to make sure its dry. I'm in no rush, but could prob top coat earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 I always let stain/dye sit a day or two to make sure its dry. I'm in no rush, but could prob top coat earlier. Yep that's my plan. I'm in no rush and don't want to ruin it cause I couldn't wait till its dry. Finished the base coats. Next will be putting on top coat and I hope the weather behaves so I can take actually sun lighted pics to show it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Hopefully that's a little better pics of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 How dark you trying to get? You're pushing paint opacity with those boards with virtually no grain showing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 I am going for something kinda like the table in the background. Don't want it exactly so that's why I am playing around with some colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 It can look almost opaque and then you put some clear topcoat on and the grain comes back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted February 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 It can look almost opaque and then you put some clear topcoat on and the grain comes back. Ya the pics are bad. You can still see most the grain on the outer 2. The middle mahogany did kinda go on like paint but I think that's normal since it was so thick? Also I was watching one of Marc's videos about water based finishes. She mentioned putting a coat of dewaxed shellac between the water based stain/dye and the water finish. Is that needed or with ample drying time I should be ok with minimal stain/dye getting reactivated and coming off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 I'm a big fan of shellac as a barrier cost between like finishes. I had an oil varnish lift oil stain even after letting dry for 3 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Looks like the table bowing just sitting out in the garage. Does this look about normal for wood movement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 It's not unusual , wood moves ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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