Dinner table journal ... Here we go!


bushwacked

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That's why it's warping. Sticker it and lay some weight on top. It needs to breathe evenly on both sides.

Well crap. Figured the holes in the table would let it breathe plenty.

Ok dumb question. I've seen the "sticker it" term thrown around a lot but have never understood it. What does that mean?

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Place straight square 3/4" to 1" strips approx 16 to 20" apart going cross grain on a flat surface and between every layer of wood. Stack your boards and place some weights on top of the stack. This lets air circulate and the wood acclimate to the shop conditions . If you rough cut your parts oversized a few days before and sticker them then they have a chance to acclimate and possibly move a bit before you re-joint and re-plane to final sizes.

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Prop it up on sticks. Rip some 3/4" x 3/4" pieces a little longer than the width of the panel, at least 3 of them. Put them between the panel and the table, so air can circulate.

Ok I'll get that done today.

Place straight square 3/4" to 1" strips approx 16 to 20" apart going cross grain on a flat surface and between every layer of wood. Stack your boards and place some weights on top of the stack. This lets air circulate and the wood acclimate to the shop conditions . If you rough cut your parts oversized a few days before and sticker them then they have a chance to acclimate and possibly move a bit before you re-joint and re-plane to final sizes.

Thanks! I'll be working on that today then

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok so I got a 4 day weekend coming up and will have plenty of time to at least apply the stain/dye

I am putting on the final coats of finish on my test strip. I used a foam brush and I could not tell if I have cheap foam brushes or this finish is really thick but it would not soak into the brush it stayed mostly on the surface.

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As for applying it I think I found the way to do it. Apply and make sure everything is covered even if there is a tad too much. Then once the foam brush is pretty much empty go over it while again to even it out. Maybe a min in between applying and going over it again. That way I had enough time to apply enough on the area so it won't take forever to apply to the whole table.

For the edges I am assuming I need to either brush out the leakage over the edge or have a damp cloth to wipe it away??

Does that sound about right?

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Wiping or brushing stains and dyes is tricky on large surfaces, practice on the underside of the tabletop !

I spray my stains and dyes. Solvent based dyes just spray on evenly. Stains I spray on and wipe back, uses up more stain and rags but it goes quicker and I get even results.

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Wiping or brushing stains and dyes is tricky on large surfaces, practice on the underside of the tabletop !

I spray my stains and dyes. Solvent based dyes just spray on evenly. Stains I spray on and wipe back, uses up more stain and rags but it goes quicker and I get even results.

Same thing for the finish?

Would it be a bad thing to section off the table top? Like do a 2x2' section then another and so on. Or should I be trying to go the whole length with the grain one 4" line at a time.... 4" is the size of the brush I'll be using.

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I wipe or spray the stain on liberally , let it set a couple of minutes and then wipe it back.

Finish in long smooth gentle strokes along the grain. I start in the middle of a tabletop and work to one side, then go around and repeat.

This keeps me from reaching over wet finish. Dust ,hair, and sweat do not belong in wet finishes.

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I wipe or spray the stain on liberally , let it set a couple of minutes and then wipe it back.

Finish in long smooth gentle strokes along the grain. I start in the middle of a tabletop and work to one side, then go around and repeat.

This keeps me from reaching over wet finish. Dust ,hair, and sweat do not belong in wet finishes.

Oooh I did not even think about the starting position. Thanks for that!! I will be starting in the middle now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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