BTW you can use accelorator w. ca glue on cuts


gardnesd

Recommended Posts

I've been doing it for years in my office. Burns like a SOB but it's nice on finger cuts. I'm in no way saying it is FDA approved, I'm just saying that I use it on my cuts.

Wasn't 'Super Glue' developed to seal wounds in the Vietnam War? I seem to have read that somewhere. But, I tell you it works brilliantly even when you drive an axe right the way through your Knee cap! I know, cos it was the only thing I could do at the time. My wife wouldn't let me stitch it with fishing nylon.

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to work at a hardware store. There was always a gallon a acetone in the back at the glass cutting station. We used it to clean the area of glass we were going to cut and lubricate the cutting wheel.

Well... in my youth I was not very careful at... anything.

About 50% of the time I would cut myself prepping glass for a customer. I'd take the cut finger, dip it in the acetone, wrap a paper towel around it and electrician tape it up.

I swear by the end of the day you couldn't even tell where the cut happened. Always healed quickly... hurt like MOTHER when doing it though!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no way I'm spraying acetone on an open wound, lol, no matter what anyone says. :)

A couple of things. Acetone is a fabulous disinfectant. I use it routinely in my line of work on a specific part of the body. It evaporates cleanly. And, if you have dressed a cut properly with ca glue the acetone will not enter the cut. I don't see much difference in the application of acetone vs. iso alcohol in an open wound except for expense and adequate fire insurance.

With that said, I wonder if aerosolized etOh would work as an accelorator? CA and everclear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im not putting alcohol on there either, lol. This is not a medical concern but one of pain, haha. I'm a bit of a wimp in that area. Soap and water for me.

And part of my problem with using the activator is not the acetone itself, but the exothermic reaction taking place with it contacts the glue. Not sure I would want to see that smoke rising from my fresh cut, lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im not putting alcohol on there either, lol. This is not a medical concern but one of pain, haha. I'm a bit of a wimp in that area. Soap and water for me.

And part of my problem with using the activator is not the acetone itself, but the exothermic reaction taking place with it contacts the glue. Not sure I would want to see that smoke rising from my fresh cut, lol.

Dude didn't you ever watch the Million Dollar Man with Lee Majors. He routinely cut his index finger off thereby exposing two wires(they were black and read...imagine that)and cauterized "flesh woooonds". Lots of smoke there with no ill effects, just sayin'.

Horse beaten and dead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been doing it for years in my office. Burns like a SOB but it's nice on finger cuts. I'm in no way saying it is FDA approved, I'm just saying that I use it on my cuts.

I'm not sure about this idea. The acetone will definitely burn and the anilines it contains (the active 'activator' constituent) might be toxic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as an FYI, water instantly sets CA. In fact, the way CA "dries" is that it absorbs water from the air (or wood, or ...), which catalyzes it. It tends to cloud it, so unless you really need to set it that fast, it can be an issue if the glue is visible.

I am constantly amazed by folks who think using any form of accelerator with thin fast CA is worth it. It sets in 4-5 seconds if thin. How much faster do you need? When you use a thicker formula, set time is tens of seconds, and an accelerator can get that to a few seconds, but most commercial accelerator is very expensive.

Because water catalyzes it, shelf life after opening is an issue. That's why it's usually best to purchase it in smaller bottles. Many hobby stores sell a house brand that says it's made by "BSI" or something like it. That's "Bob Smith Industries" and it's a very good CA. I think Zap pink is the best, but BSI is very good, and usually less expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as an FYI, water instantly sets CA. In fact, the way CA "dries" is that it absorbs water from the air (or wood, or ...), which catalyzes it. It tends to cloud it, so unless you really need to set it that fast, it can be an issue if the glue is visible.

I am constantly amazed by folks who think using any form of accelerator with thin fast CA is worth it. It sets in 4-5 seconds if thin. How much faster do you need? When you use a thicker formula, set time is tens of seconds, and an accelerator can get that to a few seconds, but most commercial accelerator is very expensive.

Because water catalyzes it, shelf life after opening is an issue. That's why it's usually best to purchase it in smaller bottles. Many hobby stores sell a house brand that says it's made by "BSI" or something like it. That's "Bob Smith Industries" and it's a very good CA. I think Zap pink is the best, but BSI is very good, and usually less expensive.

Actually, in Arizona, there have been countless times where I used a gel CA to tack something up. Assembly quickly, clamp. Wait a minute. Damn, still wet. Clamp. Go in the house for tea. Return 4-5 minutes later. Damn, still not set.

Yeah, it's crazy; I was surprised when that happened a couple times to me. Now I'm usually gross and apply CA to one side then lick my thumb onto the other; my own accelerator ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as an FYI, water instantly sets CA. In fact, the way CA "dries" is that it absorbs water from the air (or wood, or ...), which catalyzes it. It tends to cloud it, so unless you really need to set it that fast, it can be an issue if the glue is visible.

I am constantly amazed by folks who think using any form of accelerator with thin fast CA is worth it. It sets in 4-5 seconds if thin. How much faster do you need? When you use a thicker formula, set time is tens of seconds, and an accelerator can get that to a few seconds, but most commercial accelerator is very expensive.

Because water catalyzes it, shelf life after opening is an issue. That's why it's usually best to purchase it in smaller bottles. Many hobby stores sell a house brand that says it's made by "BSI" or something like it. That's "Bob Smith Industries" and it's a very good CA. I think Zap pink is the best, but BSI is very good, and usually less expensive.

Water will work, but it is hard to use a 'catalytic amount' of water. You want the glue to react (polymerize)with itself. If you use too much water you will have shorter chain polymers and a weaker glue bond.

The CA accelerator is an aniline that is made up in a dilute solution in acetone. Because it is so dilute you are only adding a very small amount of the aniline. (longer polymers will form)

Also - the aniline is a much stronger nucleophile than water and is faster acting.

Sorry for all the chemistry. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.