Tpt life Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 5 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: The marine / outdoor varnishes I have experience with form a film in just one coat. A tacky one, at that. Marine varnish is NOT more water proof, it is more flexible to avoid flaking off when the underlying wood moves. Outdoor products also typically have more solids as they provide more UV protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DruBokkens Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Now that's some great education here. Thanks a ton, guys (and for patience teaching the basics to a rookie). I won't make a big mistake and I'll just rub the sword with pure tung. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFatBaron Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 I do know people who have tried marine varnish, and I've tried some of the other blends myself. Generally, it gets worn off impact surfaces pretty quickly and even when you're not trying to build a film, it still gives that bad 'tacky' feel. If you're looking for something to deeply penetrate, some places (such as Kingfisher) DO make 'resin enhanced' bokken, where they use a vacuum chamber to pull the resin (I guess a thin epoxy?) deep into the wood - much deeper than you'll get from soaking/rubbing. This is different than just applying and sanding a finish, though. It also turns your bokken into a bokken-breaker. Some dojos actively ban these because unsuspecting partners tend to get a nasty surprise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DruBokkens Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Which is why I'm only ever going to use plain hickory from the true hickory group (shagbark, shellbark or pignut, usually where I live I only have access to shagbark in small amounts), which usually falls under L5-L6 specific gravity (.6 to .8) and that's all anyone really needs. I don't get the thing with buying Lignum Vitae from the last 4 remaining trees in the world, or like you said, using advanced technology to achieve adamantium-bound super-grain. The main reason I decided to make these on my own was not wanting to spend $400+ a piece . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyF Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I put a few coats of teak oil on my hickory hiking staff. I don't use it much, but it seems to have worked well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DruBokkens Posted July 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 One more important factor is altitude, correct? Does it affect curing time? I live at 5000ft and there is lower oxygen content in the air, which I imagine can affect the curing time, even in dry, hot weather and decent ventilation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 I am designing a sofa table right now. One of the design ideas walnut legs and rails with curves and rounded cornes so that the legs flow nicely into the rails. The top would be birdseye maple. with and Arm_R seal finish but I would like something smooth and tactile as described in this thread for the base. Any body have any thoughts on the suitablilty of and oil / 600 grit sandpaper type finish for this application? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 BLO and Tung oil are pretty comparable. I don't think you want pure tung oil. Look for polymerized tung oil. It will dry faster. All they do is heat it, similar to the difference between Linseed Oil, and Boiled linseed oil. Although modern versions have metallic dryers mixed in now. Wear gloves. A film type finish is more durable, but IMHO does not feel as nice to the hand. The nice thing about BLO/Polymerized Tung oil is that it is easy, and easy to repair. Think of it also like the oil in your car. You need to do maintenance. But with oil finishes it is much easier as there is no flaking/worn film to contend with. A regular wipe down is all it takes. A bit of sanding in between is optional. For instance, I yearly wipe down all my wood handle garden tools every year with BLO. The old method "Once a day....." would be great if you have the time, but putting on 2 coats, a day apart will probably get you there. Then just put a coat on after each use when it can sit for a day or two for the first while. It will quickly build a nice patina. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 I am designing a sofa table right now. One of the design ideas walnut legs and rails with curves and rounded cornes so that the legs flow nicely into the rails. The top would be birdseye maple. with and Arm_R seal finish but I would like something smooth and tactile as described in this thread for the base. Any body have any thoughts on the suitablilty of and oil / 600 grit sandpaper type finish for this application? Ronn, I like that finishing method, but using danish oil rather that pure oil. Sand up to 320 or so first, then rub in the wet finish with 600, and wipe it back. Still an easy finish to repair, but the little bit of varnish in the danish oil feels smoother to me. Pure oil always feels tacky, in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 He's demonstrating Danish not Tung, but the process when things dry quickly makes a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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