midtnwoodworker Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 I have had a saw completely stop in a cut, but it was from an improperly aligned fence pinching the board between the blade. If your earlier measurements are correct I doubt that .008" is enough to cause this though. Not to sound like a jerk, but did you align the fence as well as setting the blade to the miter slot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Lol, yes, the blade is correct. I re-wired it to 110 (changed the jumpers per the diagram and bought the different capacitor) and completely replaced the factory power cord for extra length (just 15 feet) I used 12 gauge wire. I aligned the fence, got it to within a couple hundredths, if I remember right. Today I noticed the riving knife is applying too much pressure on the fence side, but that doesn't explain the bogging. I did narrow that pinching down to the knife, it's not at the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 So, is the knife thicker or thinner than the blade? There just has to be some reason that the motor is bogging one 4/4 material.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 I couldn't imagine the knife being thicker than the blade, but I didn't put calipers to them. I assumed there was an adjustment on the riving knife, I had planned to read the manual on that tonight. The pinching at the knife may or may not be related, I'm just kinda brain storming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Just now, bleedinblue said: I couldn't imagine the knife being thicker than the blade, but I didn't put calipers to them. I assumed there was an adjustment on the riving knife, I had planned to read the manual on that tonight. The pinching at the knife may or may not be related, I'm just kinda brain storming. Well, reactionary wood would cause that pinching but, it's best to check and make sure that the knife isn't over sized for the blade. Take a look at the back side of the cut and see if the Kerf is trying to squeeze the blade. This could be another reason to rough it on a bandsaw and then final it on the table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Naa, it only took once for that to happen to me before I knew to be mindful of it. The cut isn't closing up. Next time I get downstairs I'll triple check the jumpers and check inside the switch to make sure nothing came loose. I think* I have permission to go to the lumber yard tomorrow, and Woodcraft is on the way. I'll pick up a better blade (though I know that's not all of the problem) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 If it's a 2 HP saw & your running it on 120V, you may well have a voltage drop problem. What size wire is the branch circuit to the panel? How long is the cable that goes back to the panel? With a motor load, voltage drop causes a cascading effect. The motor starts out by drawing more current to try to make up for the reduced voltage. The harder it's pushed, the more current it draws, reducing the voltage further. It can be quite dramatic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 The wire is, I believe, 12/2 (I bought it, but I bought it based on what my brother in law told me to buy. It's not clearly marked. Venturing into territory I don't know much about!). Today the saw was plugged into the third and final outlet on the circuit. I'd guestimate the outlet was about 45 linear feet from the panel. That could be the problem. If it were the alignment, I'd expect burning all of the time, especially with cherry. On the short term, I could re-arrange the shop and put the saw closer to the panel. Perhaps that could prove to me that it's the problem. Long term, I could have 220 installed. I have a sub panel literally over my work bench, and the basement is unfinished, so the cost should be very manageable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Running the saw in 220 is never a bad thing. The useful power will return, and you are less likely to overheat the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnus A Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Definitely contact Grizzly. They had me do an alignment procedure and after I sent the results they had me ship it back to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 11 hours ago, bleedinblue said: The wire is, I believe, 12/2 (I bought it, but I bought it based on what my brother in law told me to buy. It's not clearly marked. Venturing into territory I don't know much about!). Today the saw was plugged into the third and final outlet on the circuit. I'd guestimate the outlet was about 45 linear feet from the panel. That could be the problem. If it were the alignment, I'd expect burning all of the time, especially with cherry. On the short term, I could re-arrange the shop and put the saw closer to the panel. Perhaps that could prove to me that it's the problem. Long term, I could have 220 installed. I have a sub panel literally over my work bench, and the basement is unfinished, so the cost should be very manageable. Voltage drop shouldn't be the issue then. You'd be getting about 4V - 5V drop at full load. Connecting to 240V would be better though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Well crap, the voltage drop sounded promising. I know 220 would be better, but the saw should still perform with 110. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Just now, bleedinblue said: Well crap, the voltage drop sounded promising. I know 220 would be better, but the saw should still perform with 110. Mine is running on 110 without issue. I could probably grab you a pic of the actual wiring in my saw if you think it would help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 No thanks, I appreciate it though. I can pretty easily change outlets and shorten the distance from panel to the previous outlet by at least half. With more effort and basically trading my saw and bench's locations, I can plug the saw into an outlet coming directly off the panel. I'll make a couple test cuts and try to adjust the riving knife this afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 27 minutes ago, TIODS said: Mine is running on 110 without issue. I could probably grab you a pic of the actual wiring in my saw if you think it would help? Double checking your motor wiring is worth doing. A 240V saw will run on 120V; it'll just take longer to come up to speed & have MUCH less power. My FIL gave me a saw years ago because it was underpowered. I saw that it was wired for 240V & had a 120V plug on it. So I rewired it & away I went. Turns out the laugh was on me though, cause it was a 9" Rockwell/Beaver contractor model & was the worst saw I've ever used. Bad in every way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Yeah, I'll pull the panel and look this afternoon after some family time. The saw SOUNDS strong on startup though. The only other thing I could think of is belt tension, which would explain the blade stopping, but I don't think that would explain the bogging I can hear and I would expect the blade to stop easily and more often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 I just finished reading this thread, since my son is thinking about buying this saw. I have a couple of questions; Are you using a thin kerf blade? Grizzly's riving knife is for .125 kerf blades only, I found out the hard way when I bought my saw. I immediately put a thin kerf on it and proceeded to burn some wood. Is the riving knife properly aligned? Again found out the hard way. When I wax my table I also wax the riving knife, it helps. Several years ago, I bought a master plate, http://www.grizzly.com/products/Master-Plate/G7582, while it is just a paper weight most of the time, it sure makes aligning the table to blade much easier. I also use on my miter saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 5 minutes ago, Just Bob said: I just finished reading this thread, since my son is thinking about buying this saw. I have a couple of questions; Are you using a thin kerf blade? Grizzly's riving knife is for .125 kerf blades only, I found out the hard way when I bought my saw. I immediately put a thin kerf on it and proceeded to burn some wood. Is the riving knife properly aligned? Again found out the hard way. When I wax my table I also wax the riving knife, it helps. Several years ago, I bought a master plate, http://www.grizzly.com/products/Master-Plate/G7582, while it is just a paper weight most of the time, it sure makes aligning the table to blade much easier. I also use on my miter saw. Pretty much where I was going Bob.. I run a WoodWorker II on mine and don't have issues with the knife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Should be easy enough to pull the knife and do a test cut. That would eliminate the knife from discussion other than the fact that the knife should be aligned as part of your initial setup when you aligned/checked everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 I just put calipers on the knife, the blade that came with the saw, and the old thin kerf blades. Both blades are a couple thousandths thinner than the bottom of the range printed on the knife. I'm leaving now to go to the lumber yard, I'll get a new blade while I'm out. Kevin- is your Woodworker II thin or full? I'll pull the knife this afternoon and see how it cuts without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 1 minute ago, bleedinblue said: I just put calipers on the knife, the blade that came with the saw, and the old thin kerf blades. Both blades are a couple thousandths thinner than the bottom of the range printed on the knife. I'm leaving now to go to the lumber yard, I'll get a new blade while I'm out. Kevin- is your Woodworker II thin or full? I'll pull the knife this afternoon and see how it cuts without it. Although it's not printed on the blade that I can find, I believe it's a thin kerf. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Makes sense, everyone seems to recommend thin kerf only for a saw less than 3 HP. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnus A Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Quick test for you. Since the blade pulls away from the fence when you lower it, try lowering the blade a bit before doing the cut. For example, raise the blade higher than you normally would, but then lower it down to the correct height before cutting. See if that resolves the issue. That is exactly what was happening on mine. While raising the blade, it would pinch the wood against the fence, causing burning and bogging down the blade. It felt extremely unsafe as I was having to force the wood through. Lowing the blade slightly removed the stress on the wood. I was so close to just keeping it and dealing with that situation but honestly it was no worth the long term hassle. And yes, I double and tripled checked fence alignment and realigned the blade multiple times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post bleedinblue Posted June 9, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 I don't understand it, but it was all belt tension. I had to fiddle with it a bit because the motor didn't want to move by hand, but I got the belt nice and tight and voila. It just sliced through the same cherry, but 12/4, without a hiccup. No sign of bogging, and that was with the factory blade. I understand the loose belt tension stopping the blade, but not bogging. Whatever, I'm pretty sure I'm in business now! Got a new blade to put on, too. Not the WWII, which I know is supreme, but I couldn't pass up the sale at Rockler on the Freud Fusion. Thanks guys, I think we can call this one solved. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Awesome news! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.