Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted August 11, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 Sorry, no clever title. Just what it says, a display rack for martial arts belts. First photo, a stack of rough cut walnut parts. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 Sounds good to me. Is someone in your family a black belt? I also use alot of blue tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 On August 10, 2017 at 5:23 PM, mat60 said: Sounds good to me. Is someone in your family a black belt? I also use alot of blue tape. My 16 year old nephew received his 1st degree black about 2 weeks ago. Pretty big deal, as I understand it. I wasn't there, still waiting for Sis to send me the video. They tell me he is so fast, that when he is asked to perform a kata, he can stand there and say 'Want to see it again?'. And not be kidding. On lighter woods, I just use a pencil. But walnut is hard to mark clearly, even with that white 'charcoal' pencil I used to mark the curved cut. Blue tape and sharpie, to the rescue! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 Thats very cool and at 16 years old. Look forward to seeing your rack build also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted August 13, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 I put a couple hours into this project today. Here is a pic of the black belt rack cut and dry assembled. Fine shaping, glue up, and finish still to come. There is a second part, a box to hold the lower rack belts. Coming soon... 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 I have to say, I gained a lot of respect for the spokeshave while fairing the curve of the top piece. My bansaw cut was close, but not close enough. Spindle sander got closer, but just not a fair arc. Tried using the off-cut as a sanding block, and it worked, but veeeery slow. I couldn't believe how easy it was to make all the waves along the curve disappear with the spokeshave. Worked well on the rods, too. I didn't feel confident tring to turn those on my 'lathe' ( using that term loosly). So I cut them square, rounded the corners with my router table, and did final fitting with a spokeshave and card scraper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Started on the companion 'box' last night, to display the lower rank belts. All parts cut to length / width, and just started joinery layout when I had to quit for the night. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Last night, I decided that the iron acetate treatment just didn't look dark enough, so I switched to india ink. Here is the part that is supposed to be black: You can see it is relatively purple, with a lighter streak showing through. Cool in some cases, but not what I wanted here. So I went back to my finish testing scrap, and this is the result with india ink on the right end. Much mo' betta. However, when the ink dried, I sprayed a bit of lacquer to see how it looked under clear coat. Sorry for the glare, lacquer is still wet. After spraying, there was hardly a difference. Oh well, it looks good with the ink. Here's another method I forgot about until after I used the ink - Kiwi liquid shoe polish, in the sponge applicator bottle. It is actually a leather dye, and leave a deep flat black, that isn't as messy to apply or handle, as the ink. I'm guessing this element is black because it was inspired by some sho-shugi ban (sp?) piece, but I didn't want to risk burning my shop down. Especially since I received (at work) a new NFPA standard regarding the handling of flammable dust."> 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 On 8/10/2017 at 8:10 PM, wtnhighlander said: On lighter woods, I just use a pencil. But walnut is hard to mark clearly, even with that white 'charcoal' pencil I used to mark the curved cut. Blue tape and sharpie, to the rescue! Ross, try these General's. They're the best white charcoal pencils I've found. They dull quickly and you have to sharpen them often, but they leave very clear, distinct lines on dark woods. They don't work great on oily woods like cocobolo but they're awesome on walnut and mahogany. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V8A6HK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 I like these pencils too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Ross, try these General's. They're the best white charcoal pencils I've found. They dull quickly and you have to sharpen them often, but they leave very clear, distinct lines on dark woods. They don't work great on oily woods like cocobolo but they're awesome on walnut and mahogany. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V8A6HK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I think that's what I'm using, based on an earier recommendation from you. Yes, it leaves a very visible mark, its just hard to keep the tip from crumbling away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Yeah unfortunately the perfect white pencil does not seem to exist. The search continues but I think I've pretty much exhausted the options. I keep a little sharpener nearby and use it after nearly every mark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted August 19, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 Wrapping up on the black belt rack this weekend. Made a boo-boo, but turned it into a feature. This: Was not supposed to go all the way through. Oh, well. With a bit of squaring up via a concrete nail, I turned my 'oops' into this. Both sides, of course! Here is a money shot while the finish dries. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Even the boo-boo looks good. Like the looks of this display rack. Nice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Helluva job Ross, the young'un's gonna love it. Did you find that oak you were looking for? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Helluva job Ross, the young'un's gonna love it. Did you find that oak you were looking for? Looks like the guy in Murphreesboro probably has what I need. Working on design details to nail down the total bf necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 21 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: 1 hour ago, RichardA said: Helluva job Ross, the young'un's gonna love it. Did you find that oak you were looking for? Looks like the guy in Murphreesboro probably has what I need. Working on design details to nail down the total bf necessary. Let me know when you're headed this way, and I'll meet you. Hell, I might even pick up some wood while there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Excellent work, Ross. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 I think the mistake turned out to be a plus, I am looking forward to a picture of the whole thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Good solution! Looks great, Ross. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Ross, turned out great, if you never told us it was a cover up for an oops, it would still be a great design feature. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Ross, turned out great, if you never told us it was a cover up for an oops, it would still be a great design feature. Never said I would tell anyone else! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 I won't tell anyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted September 1, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Nearing the assembly stage for the 'box' to hold the lower rank belts. Need to pre-finish as much as possible, because of all the small compartments. There are two pegs that are mortised through the lower part of the back. I'm wondering, will epoxy will work to hold them in if I get poly around the mortices? I hate to tape them off, because there is likely to be a visible demarkation. Any hints? Here is a photo, still pretty rough, dry-fit and held with tape. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 14 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: There are two pegs that are mortised through the lower part of the back. I'm wondering, will epoxy will work to hold them in if I get poly around the mortices? I hate to tape them off, because there is likely to be a visible demarkation. Any hints? I think that the epoxy will adhere to the finish which seeps into a mortise, but it's not nearly as strong as raw wood. On the other hand, why take a chance? Put a "throw-away" plug into the mortise while you're pre-finishing, and pop it out whenever you thinks it's appropriate. It could be a chop-stick or a railroad-sized spike of wood, or a dowel. I'm not sure what you need to avoid masking because you haven't provided any photos (hint, hint). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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