Rikon 10-324 Bandsaw


LazarusDB

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I bought one a few weeks ago. So far so good. I used it to cut the bridle joints in tww gaming table guild build. I bought 2 laguna 1/2" blades to use with it. So far it seems to track best with the original blade which isn't all that bad. The way the fence is made and the saw blade inlet is on the front it would be difficult to put another fence like a kreg fence on. The stock fence is nice and high for resaw and I dont see an issue with it at all. It locks in nice and tight. 

This is was my first bandsaw purchase so I dont have much to compare to. 

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  • 3 years later...

I've had a 10-324 for a few months, like its power and the 13" depth of cut.  I think the guides are difficult to set up, especially the lower ones because it's hard to see.  Dust accumulates in both upper and lower compartments and then  dribbles out which is a nuisance.  However, I'm having trouble with either the blades or setup: cuts are wavy, look like a low washboard.  I haven't seen the "Snodgrass Method", if someone could tell me where to find it?   I've used Nielsen and now trying Timberwolf 3TPI 3/4" blades.  The Nielsen was OK but didn't last very long (getting dull).  I'm resawing Port Orford Cedar, which is soft like Sitka Spruce, 2x6, making 3/4x5.5 planks.  

Thanks in advance!

Tom Kottmeier, San Marcos CA

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Check your tension and blade tracking. Too little tension, in my experience, usually results in wandering to one side of the cut. The blade should track such that the bottom of the gullets between the teeth are centered on the wheel. Too far forward will cause the cut to wiggle like a tadpole in spring mud.

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