Popular Post gee-dub Posted February 7, 2018 Popular Post Report Posted February 7, 2018 I keep a folder of wood working things I would like to get around to someday. I am recovering from a torn retina and was setting around feeling bored and morose when I remembered that folder. These are more or less right out of Woodsmith 221 and ShopNotes 116 with modifications to suit my use and preferences. My Delta 17-950 drill press has stuck around basically because I cannot find a better one for even three times what I paid for it. Someday I'll own a big-boy DP but, for now, this one has features and quality that does the job. The one exception (OK, there's more than one but, I digress) is the depth stop. This is the farthest up the old Delta food chain you could go and still get the old Shopmaster type depth stop that came on everything from this DP down to their little baby DP's. The rotating collar depth stop mechanism is not bad if well implemented. Delta has cheaped-out this feature over the years to where it is now most frustrating to use. I dug into the folder and find this depth stop from Woodsmith 221 . . . Fundamentally simple and really just a wood version of the offering on many commercial DP's. You need a threaded rod, a bracket for it to go through and a collar that clamps to your quill. Your DP will be different so there is a little effort to adjust the measurements. I opted for threaded inserts versus nuts or bolt-heads sticking out in most places. I also opted for an acorn nut since I know I will be the one to rake the back of my hand across an exposed nut. I picked up a couple of quick-nuts from McMaster-Carr and was amazed at the speed of their delivery; 2 days. So I can now quickly and easily set the quill in a lowered position. Or set the depth of a hole with threaded precision. I can now just pretend this thing isn't even there. Another jig I have been meaning to take the time to build is a template jig for the bandsaw. I am reasonably proficient at following the line but, if you have to make 8 or 10 of the same thing, a template speeds things along and keeps them consistent. The purpose of this jig is just to bring the blank to within 1/16" of the line. A trip to the router table and a template bit finish things off. Again, the build is pretty basic. The ShopNotes 116 version used magnets to hold the jig in place. In my Greene and Greene world I am template routing blanks that would push almost any magnet across a smooth metal surface. I modified the design for clamps. This pic just shows how the jig would clamp to the larger bandsaw's fence. The blade in the pic is not correct nor is the jigs actual position. Here on the smaller bandSaw, an appropriate blade size and jig position are shown. It clamps on like so. The operation relies on the 'nose' being set just above the stock thickness and riding against the template that is attached to the blank. The blade is recessed about 1/16" into the slot at the top of the 'nose'. The template is then used as is to finish things off at the router table. 5 Quote
Chestnut Posted February 7, 2018 Report Posted February 7, 2018 Now that template jig is interesting. Seems like a really good option for those of use that aren't very good freehand at a bandsaw. Quote
Ronn W Posted February 7, 2018 Report Posted February 7, 2018 I had to puzzle over the band saw jig for a few minutes but I get it. I assume double side tape or your other favorited mothod of hold ing the owrk piece ot the template. I would be interested in a verson that clamps to my factory fence. It's on my list of "between project" projects. Thanks for sharing. Good depth stop for the drill press. My Rikon came with a similar stop and I just love it. Quote
gee-dub Posted February 7, 2018 Author Report Posted February 7, 2018 Sorry Ronn, I was a little lazy there. Here's some pics from the magazine that show it better: Quote
drzaius Posted February 7, 2018 Report Posted February 7, 2018 Where did you get the fancy push button nuts? I have a 17" General that is a beast, but has the most hateful depth stops ever. This is something I need to do. Quote
gee-dub Posted February 7, 2018 Author Report Posted February 7, 2018 McMaster-Carr. You may be able to find them a bit cheaper but, they deliver quick ;-) Quote
Tom King Posted February 7, 2018 Report Posted February 7, 2018 The best depth stop I've ever used in on the Powermatic 1150. It's easy to adjust, never budges, and no number of holes drilled by it will vary any at all, including the manual speed changing one I have that was built in 1956. Quote
TeeJay Posted March 1, 2019 Report Posted March 1, 2019 Nice thread, what wood did you use on the drill press depth stop? Also, what are those plastic nuts called that act as the stops? Quote
gee-dub Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Posted March 2, 2019 The wood is hard maple. The stops on the threaded rod for the drill press are metal. Let me see if I can find where I got them . . . Ah yes, McMaster-Carr. Aren't computers wonderful for keeping our shop history? 1 Quote
TeeJay Posted March 3, 2019 Report Posted March 3, 2019 Thanks for replying, really appreciate that! Quote
TeeJay Posted March 3, 2019 Report Posted March 3, 2019 Do you know how those built in depth stops within the handle assembly work? I can't find any information and wondered if it would be possible to introduce that as a retrofit and alternative to an external depth stop. Quote
gee-dub Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Posted March 3, 2019 58 minutes ago, TeeJay said: Do you know how those built in depth stops within the handle assembly work? I can't find any information and wondered if it would be possible to introduce that as a retrofit and alternative to an external depth stop. I can only say that this is the type that originally came on my drill press. That is why I built the external one because the original is so clumsy to work with. Quote
TeeJay Posted March 3, 2019 Report Posted March 3, 2019 How do you stop the threaded bolt from catching on the metal bracket? Quote
gee-dub Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Posted March 4, 2019 The 3/8" threaded rod is held securely and travels on a straight path that is centered in the 1/2" hole. Quote
drzaius Posted March 4, 2019 Report Posted March 4, 2019 My DP has stops that have to be turned, seemingly forever, to adjust and I hate them. I've been trying to figure out a better way and now you've just done that for me. Thanks for posting. Quote
TeeJay Posted March 4, 2019 Report Posted March 4, 2019 So the hole is much bigger than the threaded rod to avoid any rub? Quote
gee-dub Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Posted March 4, 2019 2 hours ago, TeeJay said: So the hole is much bigger than the threaded rod to avoid any rub? Right. It clears by 1/16" all around. Quote
Popular Post Dave H Posted April 8, 2019 Popular Post Report Posted April 8, 2019 Confession time, I had my Delta standing drill press for years and always cussed the depth stop having to screw and unscrew the depth stop, then one day I was cleaning the damn thing and accidentally pushed in the magic button on the nut boy did I feel like a dumb ass! 3 Quote
drzaius Posted April 8, 2019 Report Posted April 8, 2019 11 hours ago, higtron said: Confession time, I had my Delta standing drill press for years and always cussed the depth stop having to screw and unscrew the depth stop, then one day I was cleaning the damn thing and accidentally pushed in the magic button on the nut boy did I feel like a dumb ass! I might have had many, many similar experiences, but I will never admit it. 1 Quote
Jon R Posted November 6, 2022 Report Posted November 6, 2022 Did you have any concerns about drilling the holes for the screws that attach the bracket to the side of the quill housing? I've not seen inside the housing so I worry that metal shavings could eventually damage the quill if I drill through it. Or is the metal of the housing thick enough that the holes don't need to go all the way through? Quote
gee-dub Posted November 6, 2022 Author Report Posted November 6, 2022 @Jon R - The quill and associated mechanism on this drill press are a lot like the straight 6 in my old 1955 Chevy pickup; lots of room . The holes go all the way through as I did not have any bottoming taps. Removing the depth mechanism is very basic on this machine and that gave me plenty of visibility and clean out access to assure nothing got left behind. Quote
Jon R Posted November 7, 2022 Report Posted November 7, 2022 Thanks for the quick response! Last question, I think: do the push button nuts stay put well enough to make jam nuts unnecessary? Quote
gee-dub Posted November 8, 2022 Author Report Posted November 8, 2022 Yes but there are definitely good quality speed nuts and not-so-good quality ones. The price difference is pretty small. I got mine at McMaster-Carr. Quote
Von Posted March 17, 2023 Report Posted March 17, 2023 Very cool. I've got a DP200 and just put this on my someday to build list. Quote
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