How to glue this?

[Ronn W]

I need to glue a small wood stop to a surface inside a cabinet that already has 2 coats of ARS on it.  The stop is 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" and will be located in the upper corner of a door opening.  It will be fitted with a rare earth magnet to gold the small door closed,  What's the best way to prep the area and what glue would you use?

[Dave H]

A 1/2" chisel and use it like a scraper use the piece that going to be used sitting in its exact location mark around it with a sharp pencil then scrape away. Tite Bond glue, a small dab set the piece in place squeeze the piece in its location take it back off if there are dry spots add another dab and repeat when your satisfied wiggle the piece in place then hold it with pressure until it grabs maybe a minute or two what is referred to as a rub joint. 

[Chestnut]

The polyurethane glues will stick to anything but i think scraping the finish off is your best bet as well.

[Chet]

Why don't you just drill small holes in the block and cabinet and glue it in place with small dowels. This way you don't have to worry about the finish.

[Ronn W]

Thanks all,

I forgot to mention that there is a coat of shellac under the poly - does that change things?  and ,  Would Epoxy glue give me some added piece of mind that it will hold?

[Dave H]

You just need to scrape back to bare wood no finish for Tite Bond, the dowel trick might work but, I would think with as small of a block and a magnet embedded in it, it would leave very little room for dowels. I would use TB original or TB 2, TB 3 has more open time so not as good for a rub joint you need it to grab fairly quickly practice on some scrap it's great technique for small pieces in tight places where clamping is difficult I wouldn't use it on a large glue up.

[Mark J]

I don't know if you can get a clamp on this or not, but consider DAP Rapid Fuse.  My guess is that it will adhere to the polyurethane film, but a call to DAP should confirm.  Once applied you will have to hold the stop in place for 30 sec.  After that you can still break the bond for a couple of minutes if you need to reposition.  

If you are going with Titebond consider II and Quick & Thick, they both set up faster.  Q&T dries clear, II dries orange.

[wtnhighlander]

Polyurathane construction adhesive (not the foaming stuff) sticks to finished wood quite well, and bonds dissimilar materials, in my experience.

[SawDustB]

Weldbond also works on finished surfaces. It will glue plastic and dissimilar materials. I like to use it for this kind of thing since it's no messier than PVA, and dries clear. It still wouldn't hurt to make sure the surface is scratched up a little for a mechanical grip.