aliebling Posted September 9, 2020 Report Share Posted September 9, 2020 I've glued up a zebrawood and wenge desktop - it's 60"x30"x1.5" with parallel zebrawood for the majority and 3" of wenge border on all sides. This is for a work desk - mostly computer usage with some writing on it. It will see definite use (and the occasional cat running across it!) and I'd like a relatively durable but satin/low gloss finish. I'd like the zebrawood to be high contrast (light background not too brown and dark stripes) and the wenge to be dark (relatively little pattern visible) but not shiny/gloss or ebony-like. Given this, does anyone have any recommendations on the best way to finish? This is also the first time I've finished a mixed wood glueup, so any tips on that (especially if I need to finish/fill the two woods differently). I was thinking of pore filling with crystalac clear pore filler (since this is a desk and I want it smooth) then tung oil and finally bullseye. Maybe a thin coat of poly on the very top since this is a desk and it will get used? Finally, what do people recommend for smoothing for the finish? I've flattened it with a #7 and was planning on smoothing it with a #4 smoothing plane (finishing with a cabinet scraper if needed). Do I need to sand (ROS) after that given the finish plan? Alternative suggestions welcome. Again, this is new territory for me and I'd like to get it right the first time! This is a a sample finish I really like: https://i2.wp.com/arielcraftgallery.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ZTableCloseweb-5acba3a36d945.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 9, 2020 Report Share Posted September 9, 2020 I'm not a fan of complicated finishing schedules. I also have no experience finishing over crystalac, so can't comment on how it might affect color. IMO, a simple wiping varnish will provide the surface and color you described. If the pores are too noticable, perhaps start with a coat of wiping varnish to seal. Follow with a coat of full strengh varnish and applied with a squegee. Let that dry and sand it back to smooth the pores, and top it off with one or two more wiping coats. Arm-R-Seal and Minwax Wipe-on poly are both good choices. And you can always purchase just the full strength stuff and thin it yourself to make a wiping version. If you prefer a non-glossy finish, both brands offer satin formulations. Be sure to stir frequently so the flattening agents don't settle out. Or you can 'rub out' a glossy finish with fine abrasives, but that can be a lot of work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliebling Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Thanks for the thoughts. I, too, prefer a simpler finish (those are hard enough to get right!). My only concern with not filling the pores is that this will be a desk and I want ti flat. I can imagine the squeegeed varnish would have much the same effect, though. I'll post some photos when it's done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 I'm not saying that the filler won't do a better job, only that my lack of experience with it prevents me from advising how the color may be affected. I look forward to seeing your results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Both of those woods have a farly coarse texture so you may want to use some grain filler like Timber Mate to get a texture that is suitable for a desk top. Pick a color that matches the deepest part of the zebra wood grain and, if appropriate a different color for the wenge. This stuff is easy to apply with a plastic credit card and since you will be sanding back to bare wood the only remaining filler will be in the deep parts of the grain. Try it on a sample board first. If it were my desk, I would do about 2 coats of timbermate to get it smooth and then 2 coats of shellac (Zinsler universal wood sealer), Sand smooth with 320 grit and the use Arm R Seal - 2 coats of gloss and or u ntil the surafce is smooth and then 1 final coat of Satin. Sand between ARS coats with 320 or 400 grit. I apply the ARS with a sponge brush. Spread it around over the entire surface and then tip it off with full length strokes left to right starting away from you and working towward you. Pad the excess off the sponge after each pass. No touch up after you have tipped it off. Just walk away and fix any holidays on the next coat. Its easy and fast but I would try it on your sample board first. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Ronn, this Zinsler is their version of de-waxed shellac, isn’t it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliebling Posted September 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2020 Coop - it is. Ronn, I'll give it ago. I already have some timber mate in an appropriate(ish) color. I'll try a sample with it and with the crystallac clear (and one with no filler) and report back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliebling Posted October 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 Ronn: the shellac made the zebra wood slightly yellower than I want. What's the downside of skipping shellac and going straight to ARS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 Not speaking for Ronn but it would just mean using more coats of the ARS gloss in lieu of the shellac before applying the final satin coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 On 9/9/2020 at 8:18 PM, Coop said: Ronn, this Zinsler is their version of de-waxed shellac, isn’t it? Not speaking for Ronn but yes the sealer is and typically is clear and doesn't add color to a project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliebling Posted October 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 Using the Zinnsler on my test scraps came out slightly more yellow than going straight to the ARS. For the record, I really hate finishing (as compared to woodworking). That said, both the shellac and the ARS are pretty forgiving. What's the opinion on drying time for the final ARS coat before the desk can be manhandled? A photo of the finishing in progress. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 Very nice!! RE drying times I never go less then a week but really prefer a month prior to hard use, I'm definitely on the conservative side though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 I concur on those curing times. It's not like you can't touch it sooner, just be gentle & don't leave anything sitting on it for long. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 On 9/9/2020 at 8:18 PM, Coop said: Ronn, this Zinsler is their version of de-waxed shellac, isn’t it? Yes It is a 2 lb cut shellac, dewaxed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliebling Posted October 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 The desk will have to be manhandled out if the basement and through a couple of awkward doorways. I think I'll give it at least a few weeks just to be safe. Speaking of which: shellac is pretty easy to repair. What's the process for ARS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 ARS is like any polyurathane. If you can't buff out the damage, then repair usually means stripping that surface and starting over. It is really tough to sand just a spot and "feather in" a fresh layer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliebling Posted October 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 I was afraid of that. Worth spending the time to get it right the first time, then. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliebling Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 So i've got 6 coats of gloss on now (I had sanded a bit over aggressively after the first coat so had some dull spots that entailed a few extra coats - I didn't try to spot touch up, but applied new coats to the whole top). There is some streaking showing in the last gloss coat. Do I need to address that with more gloss or can I go ahead and go to satin for my final coat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 In my admittedly limited experience, streaking is most often caused by humidity / moisture, or by "over-working" a heavy application of poly. By that, I mean either brushing / wiping beyond the point where the product becomes tacky, or applying so many layers that they are not fully cured when the later coat goes on. At 6 coats, maybe your build is a little thick, and needs some extra cure time before you apply more. Just a guess. I rarely apply more than 3 coats of poly, always wipe-on, and typically thinned a little more than it comes in the can. My final coats are more thinner than varnish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliebling Posted October 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 Hopefully almost done here! I put on the satin coat and it looks great...except for one ~3/4"x5" streak which remains glossy. I assume my poor wiping technique caused this. I don't really want to have to put another coat of satin on the whole top since the rest looks fantastic. Can I wipe just this strip or maybe just the whole length of the desk in the width of this strip? I definitely feel like my ARS application technique was getting better, but it qas really annoying to have somehow mmissed this one little section! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 8, 2020 Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 Full disclosure, I have used ARS just enough to determine that I like Minwax better. I find Minwax Wipe-on easier to apply and get a smooth, consistent surface. Others will disagree. Anyway, you can certainly attempt to hit just the shiny strip, and it may work well. Keeping the flatteners suspended in the satin varnish is important, and it may just be that your streak is an uneven load. Stir the container well, just before application. I prefer 'shaken, not stirred', but the ARS I used developed a froth when shaken. Doesn't seem to happen with Minwax. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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