Sideboard TV Stand

[Chestnut]

3 hours ago, legenddc said:

For the Blum hinges I've learned I need the clip, mounting plate and screws, but there are 8 different mounting plates for a frameless 0mm height for an inset door. Any recommendations? This one is the most popular if that matters. I know I need to switch from soft-close to free swing if I do the push release.

I love blum hinges but their manual is required reading if you plan on using their hinges À la carte.

Use this plate https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/blum-0mm-cam-adj-wing-wood-screw-plate.html

I'd avoid the one you linked as the part number is not in their manual. 173H7100 is in their manual. Secondly the cam adjustment is worth every extra penny. All 22 of them. I can confirm you have the right hinge selected for soft close.

Finally if you decide on the push to open the free swing hinge is 70T3750.TL https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/blum-110deg-clip-top-hinge-free-swing-inset-screw-on.html

Alternatly the 170 degree hinge could be a consideration. 71T6650 with a 9mm plate 173H9130.06

[legenddc]

Thanks! Of course 173H7100 is sold out a lot of places. I'll keep looking for a place that has all of the parts in stock.

[Chestnut]

36 minutes ago, legenddc said:

Thanks! Of course 173H7100 is sold out a lot of places. I'll keep looking for a place that has all of the parts in stock.

https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/blum-174h7100e-onyx-0-mm-onyx-black-wing-plate-cam-adj-expando.html

not sure color matters but this one claims 7-10 days. There should be enough adjustment on the hinge it's self that you could just go with the non-adjustable one. I almost always find that I have to adjust the base plate though. For the price go with the cheap now and order the adjustable ones if you need it?

I might have the ones you need sitting unused in my shop. If i remember tonight I'll check for ya.

[legenddc]

On 11/22/2021 at 2:42 PM, Chestnut said:

https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/blum-174h7100e-onyx-0-mm-onyx-black-wing-plate-cam-adj-expando.html

not sure color matters but this one claims 7-10 days. There should be enough adjustment on the hinge it's self that you could just go with the non-adjustable one. I almost always find that I have to adjust the base plate though. For the price go with the cheap now and order the adjustable ones if you need it?

I might have the ones you need sitting unused in my shop. If i remember tonight I'll check for ya.

Found them in stock at TDD Hardware. Paid about $20 more because of shipping than Woodworkerexpress but still saved about $20 compared to Rockler.

[Mark J]

21 hours ago, legenddc said:

As I daydream at work, I'm wondering if it wouldn't make more sense to use the tablesaw? I would need to make a sled so I don't destroy my Incra Miter Express but that's not the end of the world.

If the TS is dialed in for the angle you are going to cut, that sounds like a better option to me.

 

[legenddc]

Weird, I swore I made a post last night but must have closed the window before it posted. TD Hardware called and said they had the mounting plates but not the hinges. They called again about 5 minutes later and said to use a different hinge with a 18mm offset plate to achieve the same thing. Placed an order with Rockler for a hinge jig, screws and vex bit.

@MarkJ I'll work on dialing it in on some scrap once I get the sled built.

Last night I made up the fences for the sled and got the runners cut and attached to the plywood sled. Tonight I'll attach the fence to the sled and finesse the runners. Picked up a caliper for the 5 cut test but the shims won't be here until tomorrow. Not sure how to best do that on a 45* cut. Maybe dial it in at 90 and then make the 45* cut?

 

[Chestnut]

Use a scrap piece and do a test on the bore hole location and hinges before mounting everything up. It's a good practice to make sure that there isn't anything that will bite you.

I would dial the test cut in at 90 and then cut the 45. Though that may ruin the zero clearance of the sled so maybe dial it in at 45. Dialing it in at 45 shouldn't be any different than at 90.

[legenddc]

Yes, will definitely be testing the hinges on scrap first.

I think dialing it in at 45 will be doable. I was thinking measuring the 5th cut would be difficult since it's not rectangular but using the calipers on a parallelogram is the same thing. Sometimes I just need to actually see things for it to make sense.

[legenddc]

Project journals are pretty boring without pics. Here’s the table saw sled I put together the last couple of nights. Hopefully tonight or tomorrow morning I can square it up and be ready to make the cuts for the case. 

Also cleaned out the table saw since it was full of dust. The port at the bottom got clogged so hooking up the dust collector was even more pointless than normal. 

[Mark J]

Does your sled use one runner, or two?

[legenddc]

Two runners. 

[legenddc]

Got the sled squared up at the 45* angle. Only went the wrong way once with adjusting it. 
 

Hinges also came in and I think they’ll work out nice. Glad that issue is resolved. 
 

I need to flatten the ~16” panels for the case as they’re slightly off and causing the test miters to be off in spots. Since I only have a 13” planer I’ll try sanding everything to flatten any inconsistencies out. Used a weight to keep the panels flat when I cut the test miters which seemed to help. 

[legenddc]

Dang my updates are lacking. Sadly not much to show until today. Was hoping to get a ton more done this week but I wasn't feeling great so lots of couch time. I did make the parallel clamp extenders which seem to work great. I don't know why you would spend $20 each for these when they're easy to make. I should have just made 4 while I had things set up, but too late.

Finally after much internal debate I got the miters cut in the case. Overall I think it's pretty good and with this first dry fit, only 1/16" off from corner to corner. I'm headed back down to test some biscuits in the miter on the offcuts and cut the dado for the center divider as well as get the back panel cut to size and cut the rabbets. Then sanding the inside before it gets glued up.

[Chestnut]

24 minutes ago, legenddc said:

I should have just made 4 while I had things set up, but too late.

I've been meaning to glue a top on mine so they end up being a tube but i never get around to it. I figure it'll help stop the clamps from being floppy.

[legenddc]

I accidentally made one bolt too tight and it seems to help the flopping. Lids for them would work too. 
 

It’s been a while but work continues. I cut the biscuit slots back in the 9th or 10th.  A while ago it seems I cut the dado for the middle and got that part all fitted. Finally got the back fit. Not sure why but I had to fudge the right side of the back but I don’t think anyone will realize it’s cut at an 89* taper. Especially when it’s up against a wall. 
 

If it looks distorted it could be the wide angle iPhone lens. 
 

Now the sanding can begin for the inside and back. I did pick up a $7 no. 4 Plane from Habitat Restore but until I buy sharpening equipment it will sit on a shelf. 

[Chestnut]

The stand looks like it's coming together quite well. The plywood is cherry?

15 hours ago, legenddc said:

I did pick up a $7 no. 4 Plane from Habitat Restore but until I buy sharpening equipment it will sit on a shelf. 

Awesome that's a great price! Depending on it's condition it might be worth getting a new iron and chip breaker. Some of that old steel can be sharpened well and used but the new stuff they are making these days, like PMV-11, has real world advantages.

[legenddc]

It’s solid wood for the back that I milled to about 1/2”. When I reassemble it I need to confirm there’s enough room for expansion. 
 

I bought the plane with the thought in mind of getting new a iron and breaker for it. I think my dad has an old no 5 too that might get upgraded and we can learn to use them together. 

[legenddc]

Finished sanding the insides and back panels. Just need to figure out the correct gap for the back panel and then I can start assembling it. Hopefully the case will be fully glued up on Christmas. 

[legenddc]

Had my dad come over yesterday and help me glue this up. Definitely glad he was here and has experience in woodworking. We were able to glue it all up. The mitered plywood pieces helped except one side where one broke off. Glad we had the long clamps ready as they were needed for the part that broke off  

Just measured it again and it’s square with the front side somehow 1/16” longer on the diagonal than the back. I ended up 5/16” wider than my drawing so I’ll have to remember that when it comes time for the legs. 

[Chet]

Glue ups with the pucker factor are always fun, even with an extra set of knowledgeable hands. 

[legenddc]

Absolutely. Especially when you're fairly far along in the build.

Sanded last night for a while. The bottom is done and the top/sides were done to 80. Hoping tonight I can finish up the outside of the case.

This is my largest project besides some pine farmhouse tables back when I first started and the sanding is taking a long time. A 6" ROS has shot up to the top of my list of things to purchase.

Slow day yesterday at work so I wrote out the rest of what needs to be done and estimated how long it will take me. Really want to get this done by the end of the month so I'll be pretty busy every night once the kids go to bed. Have to try and keep any lumber milling to the weekends too.

[legenddc]

Finished sanding the entire case including the front/rear of the frame. Really enjoyed using the Preppin' Weapon on that. So far things still seem square with the frame unlike if I did it with a ROS. Can't decide if I should put the finish on now before I've drill shelf holes and the hinges or just wait until it's all done.

Quickly threw together a prototype of the legs with some 2x4s. Cut the legs to about 1.5"x1.5" and tapered the front ones. There's too much going on to really see how they look. I'm going to bring the whole thing upstairs later to check it out and get a better feel. 

[Chestnut]

I think that size of legs looks good. Is the front apron going to be flush with the case or will there be a reveal?

[legenddc]

On 1/8/2022 at 7:11 PM, Chestnut said:

I think that size of legs looks good. Is the front apron going to be flush with the case or will there be a reveal?

Flush. Please excuse the bowed and not jointed/planed 2x4s!

[legenddc]

With the support structure all being about 1.5"x1.5" what size should I aim to make the mortise and tenons?