Ronn W Posted December 2, 2021 Report Share Posted December 2, 2021 I am bout to glue up the top for a 26" x 12" table. I am using African Mahogany purchase from cabinet shop (good stuff) The end grain on a board laid flat on the workbench is straight upa nd down (quarter sawn or may be even rift cut. I was planing to border the top with a shaped moulding similar to what one would see around the edges of a Queen Anne tes table. (mitered at the corners) Then it occured to me that I could have movement problems witht he mouldings at the ends of the table. I think I have 3 options. 1. Just build it and and hope that 12" of rift cut mahogany won't move enough to noticably cause problem at the miters. It is my understanding that this Species is quite stable to begin with and rift cut is even better. 2. Glue the front 3" of the moulding on the ends and pin nail near the back corners to allow movement and let the back miters move. 3. Design the moulding so that there is an intentional 1" or so gap in the moulding in the middle of the 12" long moulding on each end of the table. See sketch. How would you do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 2, 2021 Report Share Posted December 2, 2021 I think the #3 option has an interesting look and would be a problem solver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted December 2, 2021 Report Share Posted December 2, 2021 Framing solid wood is always a cautionary tale. As the panel gets wider the concern increases. It looks like you are going for a dish effect (outer edge taller than the table surface). Is the 26" the long grain direction? I avoid framing solid panels but, even in my breadboards I use something like your option #2. I attach the front to keep that look constant throughout the seasons and allow the rear to move. Minnesota has actual seasons so I imagine you get decent humidity swings. Using option #2 you could see gaps of up to 1/8" at the rear miter joint. If this will pass muster I would go that way. For more peace of mind I would go with your #3 or simply profile the edge. Both make a significant change to the look of the piece. JMHO ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 2, 2021 Report Share Posted December 2, 2021 The wood shrinkage calculator at WoodWeb says that species should shrink or expand by 1/16" with a 6% change in MC. I think "Old-Timers" would have simply nailed the molding on, and trusted the flexibility of the nailed joint to keep the panel from doing any real damage. And nails can be replaced as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 2, 2021 Report Share Posted December 2, 2021 I have alternate suggestions. This is from an uninformed perspective. In viewing images of queen Anne pieces the tops appear to be solid wood with the profile cut into the edge. The top appears to be veneered giving the look of a mitered frame but not actually enclosing the top in a frame. I see your molding appears to go above the top surface. A rabbet may work and apply the frame like you would a breadboard end with pegged tenons? This could leave the sides able to expand and contract within the frame. Or make the top a frame and panel and cut a tongue that would interface with a groove on the frame. The tongue would be the upper portion of the top such that a gap is not produced. The other observation is to do a captured panel. providing a small gap surrounding the panel for expansion and contraction. Part of me thinks they didn't do anything to consider wood movement based on the comments on this piece. https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/queen-anne-cherrywood-tea-table-new-england-lat-8754abb90f Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 I dunno about Ronn, but I only worry about wood movement for the next 25 years or so. After that, its someone else's problem, for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 When you get in your seventies, it’s less of a concern as well! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 On 12/2/2021 at 6:32 PM, Coop said: When you get in your seventies, it’s less of a concern as well! Yeah, I have been noticing that about a lot of things. I have decided to use option 3 with less of a gap than in the sketch to minimize the visible end grain of the table top. Thanks, all. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted February 2, 2022 Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 What if you used your lumber to make a veneer. With baltic birch substrate? Not my expertise but I'm thinking it might work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ronn W Posted February 3, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 On 2/2/2022 at 2:47 PM, curlyoak said: What if you used your lumber to make a veneer. With baltic birch substrate? Not my expertise but I'm thinking it might work... I'll keepthat in mind for the next time, thanks. Here is what I actually did. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.