Need better countersink bits


Ronn W

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I am getting tired of my old adjustable counterisnk straight bits.  Aside from the fact that they are old and dull, I would like to avoid having to separately drill a clearance hole so that the top piece of wood will draw up tight to the bottom piece.  Will a tapered counter-sink bit solve this problem??  One like this.......

https://www.rockler.com/6-pro-tapered-countersink-bit

It looks like it might work on longer screws but for a shorter (say 3/4" long screw) it looks like the largest diameter of the tapered bit will not even enter the wood and the hole might be too small of a diameter especially in hard wood.

I have no experience with tapered bits - any suggestions, life lessons, pros and cons would be appreciated.

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I don't see using tapered bits unless using old style tapered wood screws.  That bit doesn't look like it's worth what it costs.  I think I'd buy the fancy Amana one before putting 30 bucks in that one.

I have a very old set of ones that look similar to that, but I haven't used them since woodscrews stopped being manufactured in the USA.  They were supposed to be the best made back then, and probably were, but they always clogged and had to be cleared between uses.

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I have one of those tapered counter sink bits from rockler and it works ok. If you want the tapered bit to work like you say the depth needs to be set just right. Some times for short screws it doesn't work so hot and I have to drill a 2nd clearance hole.

One of the dowsides to that bit is that I find that I have to clear the dust from the counter sink between the depth stop collar. The amana bits cover this better but are more expensive. I think amana has a tapered drill as well but their part numbers are incredibly confusing and I've had to order 3 different bits before i got the one i wanted.

I think this is the bit that I use for #8 screws. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0846PJ2ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Either that or it's this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECCNDBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

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A bit that will drill you a through hole, a pilot hole, and a coutersink will rely on you using the same type and length of screw quite often.  I use something similar to the Amana with a plastic outer/stop collar as opposed to the metal one.  Same concept, works great.  I set is up to drill the through hole, countersink, and start the pilot hole(make a bit of a dimple).  For some tasks or materials I then complete the pilot hole with a separate bit.  For slam/bang work I just drive the screw in without the additional pilot hole length. 

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I remembered the brand name of the set I've had since the 1970's-Fuller.   This is very similar, but mine don't have hex shanks, and came in a square wooden block with holes that the bits fit vertically in.  I'd never pay this kind of price for them now.  They clog, like I was talking about.  

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/2802

I'm sure Lee Valley would have a good selection now.

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I have some tapered countersink bits of the design linked in the OP, but sold at my local home center, for considerably less. They are great for the brass wood screws I use a lot, but each size screw requires a different diameter bit, and setting the proper drilling depth is tricky. They do NOT make a full clearance hole in the 'top' part, only a hole tapered to match the screw.

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I used the a Montana brand(Hitachi) for years till I went into furniture full time, I spent several weeks viewing contersink bits and realized if I couldn't buy and replace locally I'd have to have two sets on hand at all time. I've replaced any starter bits with HF bits because there cheap and have worked just fine. I did nbuy two or three of each but have only needed the one of each. I got in furniture in my 40's , if I had been younger I would have just bought everything Amana...I'm not into buying several brands, waste of time..

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