Next Shop Questions

[Mark J]

11 hours ago, Tom King said:

I was thinking this was planning from the start with a blank slate.  Do you already have the land, and attached garage has to be limited in size? 

Well, yes and no.  We're talking to a couple of builders that are doing housing developments.  We'd be modifying existing plans, and the lots are already divided.  So there are limitations.  In fact, the 3rd car garage add ons they've been doing are more like 12 x 40, and I don't think an exterior basement access has been done, either, unless it's a walkout lot.

[BillyJack]

On 10/14/2022 at 6:47 PM, Ronn W said:

A possible suggestion on locating your table saw.  I have only 15" width so I put my cabinet saw against the wall.  Right side against the wall.  I get full use of my fence travel and I have never had to move it.  I have no need to walk around both sides of the saw.  I don't think I have seen others do this but it works for me and saves space.

How do you cut 8' length  or 10', 12',  or longer boards?

 

Correct you dont use the right side unless you néed the end to use the router table...

With the router to the left you extended tge with cutting capacity which is good for sheet goods..

[Ronn W]

On 10/14/2022 at 7:22 PM, Coop said:

@Ronn W, is your drum sander on a mobile base? 

Yes, It came with that base.  Luckily the sander feed belt is about 1/4" higher than the TS top so sander outfeed can go over the TS.

 

On 10/15/2022 at 8:09 AM, Mark J said:

is your router table free standing, or is it integral to the TS? 

My router table is a freestanding cabinet like a kitchen base cabinet.  Same units of the outfeed side of the table saw.

[Ronn W]

On 10/15/2022 at 9:27 AM, BillyJack said:

How do you cut 8' length  or 10', 12',  or longer boards?

 For cross cuts on long boards.  I do have 8' to the left of the TS blade but I usually mark my rough cross cuts and start close to the center  of the board length.  If the board is longer than about 9'  feet I have to use the jig saw in the garage to get the board into the basment.  For sheet goods, I put a sheet to styrofoam on the garage floor and use the old Skil saw.

[BillyJack]

I didn't think to ask you the size of your workshop area. 

[Ronn W]

On 10/15/2022 at 9:54 AM, BillyJack said:

I didn't think to ask you the size of your workshop area. 

About 15' x 21' with a damn post in the middle.

[Ronn W]

The  size of the table saw was a major consideration for me in laying out my space.  30" rip and I cannot cut cabinet sides, 50" did not fit.  So I have 36".  Works well for me.

[Coop]

On 10/15/2022 at 11:18 PM, Ronn W said:

About 15' x 21' with a damn post in the middle.

Mine’s 24’ x24’ and I put a post in mine to support the drop for my dc to my ts but it is strategically located and not in the way. 

[Ronn W]

On 10/16/2022 at 7:37 PM, Coop said:

y dc to my ts but it is strategically located and not in the way. 

Sure wish that my post was stragecally locacted.  I did luck out tho. Whn I deisgn the router table off the left end of the talbe saw I was able to locate the center of the router so that when using the router fence with a bearing on the router bit the wood that I was routing clears the post by about 1".

[Botch]

Regarding using a garage space that you would heat.

I built a spacious garage shop when I was stationed at Grand Forks AFB ND; insulated/sheetrocked the walls and ceiling, and used a forced-air kerosene heater to warm it up.  That thing got the air temperature from -20˚ to +60˚ in about 20 minutes, and I was very happy with that.

UNTIL I realized all my cast-iron tools did not warm up that quickly; in fact I froze my hand to the top of my tablesaw (wasn't even double-dog-dared).  Along with uncomfortable tools, it also caused the water vapor from the heater to condense, and rusting began immediately.  I had to forego the heat.  You live near Chicago, so you'd have some cold-tool issues also, unless you keep the space heated 100% of the time.  Just a warning.

I bought a place with space for a basement shop when I moved here to UT; even though its less than half the size I'd like, I don't have to worry about heating, and I live alone so no worries about the sound either.  Good luck!  

[Tpt life]

Yeah, kerosene and propane are wet when they burn. With any other style of heater, there is not enough vapor in winter to cause any major issues unless you don’t use some form of protectant. Wax works fine here, 50 miles east of Chicagoland. Personally, I don’t like the shop out of the 55° range unless I am trying to put on finish. That temp of air doesn’t pick up a ton of atmospheric moisture anyway. Honestly, radiant heaters heat the tools also, if you have them where the tools are. 

[Mark J]

I hadn't thought of that.  The garage is going to need more heat/energy than the basement.  

Call me a wimp, but 55* is too cold for my tastes.  

[BillyJack]

Mine stays 62-68 in the winter. I won't do any complicated work unless it's 70+...I have one vent from the furnace thats  on fulltime and a back up heating/cooling unit to raise it to 70+.

 

No fun working with cold tools. Get proper heat..

 

[BillyJack]

These units are expensive new, but older units especially with the cooling unit failed are almost useless to a hotel/motel. They will replace and if it's out of date, they will replace as the  units go down.

 

If you have a small shop and need heat, these units work great.