I'm Taking The Plunge...

[roughsawn]

...into loose tenon joinery. I have plans for a jig, router bits, material, and measuring/marking equipment.

If any of you guys have tips, time savers, advice, etc., I'm all ears. 

For me, it's more affordable than a Domino, and faster, easier than M&T. Supposedly just as strong?

[Von]

I did this for the first time last year and was happy with the process.

I bought the tenon stock (Lee valley), which was a nice time saver.

I used some quick, one-time plywood jigs/fixtures. Before I do it again, I'll probably build something nicer and reusable.

My only issue was the bushing on the router made it hard to clear out the dust - there just wasn't room for my dust collector attachment on the router to get the dust out around the bushing. So I cut until their seemed to be too much dust, then stopped to vacuum out the mortise. Took 2-3 cycles per mortise. I was cutting very small mortises (1/4"x3/4"), with larger ones I expect this may not be as much of an issue.

Have fun!

[wtnhighlander]

The only difference in loose tenons made by router vs. domino is tool cost, speed, and sizes available. Strength should essentially be the same.

[Coop]

@Von, I’m sure I’m not using my noggin but how did you cut a mortise using a router bit that has a bushing? The only thing I can think of is using a slot cutting bit on a router table?

[wtnhighlander]

Something like this, @Coop:

 

[Coop]

Thanks Ross. I was thinking bearing attached to the bit and not bushing/collet as op mentioned. My bad. 

[roughsawn]

On 1/12/2024 at 6:52 PM, Coop said:

@Von, I’m sure I’m not using my noggin but how did you cut a mortise using a router bit that has a bushing? The only thing I can think of is using a slot cutting bit on a router table?

The other option is to make the top of the jig wider than the router base, then glue a couple base guides to the top, on either side of the router base. And a stop at the beginning and end of the mortise, on top of the jig. No bushing needed.

[Coop]

Agreed. 

[Von]

On 1/12/2024 at 7:52 PM, Coop said:

@Von, I’m sure I’m not using my noggin but how did you cut a mortise using a router bit that has a bushing? The only thing I can think of is using a slot cutting bit on a router table?

wtnhighlander has it right. Yeah, it seems like they should have two different names...

[soonerdg]

I'll confess that I now use a domino.  No particular reason, I just wanted it.  However, before getting it a couple of years ago I did all of my M&T joinery with the loose tenons.  I never used a jig, just the router guide that came with my router.  As said, strength isn't an issue.  Also, have you considered dowels?  I know that's a dirty word in some woodworking circles but Dowels are literally just round loose tenons.  They're more than strong enough for furniture building.  Unless you have an 800 pound pet gorilla!

[curlyoak]

https://toolstoday.com/v-6140-53410.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&ne_ppc_id=17670170525&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8aiPp4bsgwMVEhatBh2BdAX2EAQYAiABEgLjRPD_BwE

Before buying the festool I used a slot cutter on my router. Multiple size cutters are available and the cutters can be stacked.

The moment I bought the domino tool my efficiency and accuracy improved many fold. I also own the jumbo domino tool. If either of them went down I would replace it. After buying the tool I immediately sold my dedicated mortice machine. 

I bought mine on the first offering. Still going strong.

[roughsawn]

I built a mortising jig to use with a 5/8" bushing and a 3/8" bit. I couldn't see around the bushing to set up stop blocks at the lines. So, I trashed that idea. I saw a video where Marc used a big block of wood on either side of the project piece, sandwiched together, and clamped. That gives the router base a good surface to ride on. 

So I milled a matched pair of big blocks of wood, and tried it. Worked perfect. Set up with a spiral upcut bit, and NO bushing. Just the router base guide pushed firmly against the close side block, and a start and stop block added, to dictate the length of the mortise.

Everything worked perfect, and the 8 tenon glue up went perfect. Every joint locked up good, and the project stayed square. Despite me gluing up the whole project at once, instead of doing it in 2 steps.

[gee-dub]

This is a commercial product but may give you some ideas.  There are reference marks on the inside faces of the jig to align with the center of the mortise as opposed to the ends.

Using this approach may solve your visibility and alignment problems.  I wanted more options than the factory templates offered and they were easy to make.

It also has an end stop which makes moving between similar parts really quick.

I made a little block that simulated the thickness of the jig to make setting my bit depth easier.

These next pics are of the original version of the Mortise Pal which I sold (wish I hadn't) when I got the version 2 shown in the first pics.

I have a Domino but still use the Mortise Pal for other tenon sizes.  You may be able to find one in the classifieds now that Dominoes have been around for a while.  Someone may have one laying a drawer, unused.  Whiteside used to make the Mortise Pal bits (4" long) and I have been able to buy them even after Mortise Pal closed up shop.  The bit diameter determines the mortise width and the template determines the length.

[roughsawn]

I can see where the plexiglass makes visibility alot better. And clamping both side of the project makes it oops-proof. Thanks for posting this.