May 2026 Scrap Frames

[gee-dub]

Gluing the inside frames to the backers.

I use a little auto-trim tape to mask part of the surface so that I can apply glue later.

Pre-drill holes for the keyhole bit that will create the keyhole slots for horizontal or vertical mounting.

Keyholes for everybody,

I have dressed the surfaces of the outer frames. The oil finish is not quite as hard as I like it for final prep. I will give it another day to cure.

[gee-dub]

Surprise visit from the youngest grandchild today. We get to babysit while mom helps a friend move from one place to another. No complaints here but, shop time becomes less effective . Even thought these are scrap frames I cannot control my CDO (that's the same as OCD but the letters are in the right order) so I dial things in a bit.

Picture frame turn buttons are inexpensive and very useful for making frames. I have a small bottle of turns and screws that I keep in my "project supplies" tackle box.

The turn locations do not have to be precise but I like them to be consistent so I use the drill press and fence.

Final top coat . . . finally.

Same for the outer frame parts.

You can see where the tape leaves some bare wood to allow the PVA glue to do its thing when these components are connected.

I have fitted the glass and art backer boards. Once glued up these will move to the finish line pretty quickly.

[pkinneb]

On 5/18/2026 at 1:58 PM, gee-dub said:

Surprise visit from the youngest grandchild today. We get to babysit while mom helps a friend move from one place to another. No complaints here but, shop time becomes less effective . Even thought these are scrap frames I cannot control my CDO (that's the same as OCD but the letters are in the right order) so I dial things in a bit.

Picture frame turn buttons are inexpensive and very useful for making frames. I have a small bottle of turns and screws that I keep in my "project supplies" tackle box.

The turn locations do not have to be precise but I like them to be consistent so I use the drill press and fence.

Final top coat . . . finally.

Same for the outer frame parts.

You can see where the tape leaves some bare wood to allow the PVA glue to do its thing when these components are connected.

I have fitted the glass and art backer boards. Once glued up these will move to the finish line pretty quickly.

You just gotta love some great curly maple! Awesome job!

[gee-dub]

On 5/18/2026 at 12:03 PM, pkinneb said:

You just gotta love some great curly maple! Awesome job!

Thanks.  These are all made out pieces pulled from the scrap barrel.  I had no idea that the curl would end up so prominent once the material was resawn.  I'll certainly be looking over my discards more carefully from now on.

[gee-dub]

OK, time to put these to bed. I may have mis-posted or double posted this pic. I was just trying to show how the tape leaves some raw wood available for the PVA glue to bond to.

If you adopt this style of frame making here's a tip. The block of plywood is about 1/8" smaller than the backer board / inner frame assembly.

You run a bead of glue around the inside of the outer frame, bed the inner frame assembly into it, set the plywood block on top and set a weight on it to keep everything gently firm and in position.

20 minutes later you can add the glass, art backer, and the frame turn buttons.

And there you go.

I have done a bit of a mental reset on what goes to the burn barrel after this exercise. All the parts of these frames were pulled from sub-standard stuff that was destined either for the trash or the fire pit. The inner frame backer is actually made from the old backs on the cabinets from a bathroom remodel. Now the assembled bits of "scrap" will go into the plastic bins "full-o-stuff" that I keep in the bottom of the hall closet for "surprise" requests for gifts to friends and loved ones.

[wtnhighlander]

@gee-dub, do you have any special source for those turn-buttons? Every one I've had experience with was so flimsy, the weight of the artwork might bend them enough to drop out if the frame was turned face-up!

[Coop]

On 5/15/2026 at 11:58 AM, curlyoak said:

This is the way I cut all mitered frames. I have had this jig for a long time and I love it. The fence is very close to 45 degrees to the blade. Most importantly is that the fence from one side to the other is a perfect square. And each piece must be cut from both sides.

I'll add biscuits if there is enough room. I use 4 bar clamps. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. and the bottom clamps are 90 degrees to the top clamps. Adjust your clamps. The glue when fresh acts like a lubricant. So you add and subtract clamp pressure until all corners are perfect. 

I use the right side as the second cut and c clamp on a 45 d. waste as a stop block.

I took the picture in haste. There are spoils in the goove and the sled is riding high.

 

+1

[curlyoak]

On 5/18/2026 at 2:58 PM, gee-dub said:

I cannot control my CDO

Allow your CDO to be free. It embellishes your art!

[Mark J]

Well, they came out great (no surprise).

[gee-dub]

On 5/19/2026 at 6:01 PM, wtnhighlander said:

@gee-dub, do you have any special source for those turn-buttons? Every one I've had experience with was so flimsy, the weight of the artwork might bend them enough to drop out if the frame was turned face-up!

Darn.  I know the wimpy ones you are talking about but have been unable to find where I sourced the ones I used on these frames.  They are a bit over 5/8" long, came with screws, and are pretty stout.  If I have to alter the bend in them it takes a couple of pairs of pliers.  Fingers won't do it.  I will keep looking.