Stephens_Shop Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 I am new to woodworking so very little experience with a bench never mind a propper one like the roubo. I have been reading a lot and I am now thinking about modifying the leg vise so it is angled at 20 degrees. From what I read this would greatly improve the variety of sizes of wood the clamp could then accomodate. Is this true? With this modification would you leave the rest of the bench the same? How would you incorporate this modification, rework the entire leg so it's on an angle or leave the leg and add to it on the right side up top and left side at the bottom to reflect the angle? Stephen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Hey Stephen. I never heard of this before but then again, I am not as well-read on the topic as some. Too many blog posts, articles, forum posts and not enough time in the day. Can you give some details on how this makes the clamp more versatile? I am wondering whether the versatility gain would be worth the extra work involved. The vise is pretty darn versatile as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texfire Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 I think he's referring to the Peter Nicholson "Mechanic's Companion (1831)" style English joiner's workbench that Schwarz included in "Workbenches". In that style there is a wide front apron and the legs are angled 20 degrees out towards the sides, including the leg that the vise is installed on. There are a series of holes in the front apron intended for holding the work in conjunction with the vise. In his book he notes that the angle of the vise allows holding of wider boards, though I guess that's in a vertical orientation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 I'm going with the round holes. I can make those easily and much easier to install where I need when that need arises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephens_Shop Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Hey Stephen. I never heard of this before but then again, I am not as well-read on the topic as some. Too many blog posts, articles, forum posts and not enough time in the day. Can you give some details on how this makes the clamp more versatile? I am wondering whether the versatility gain would be worth the extra work involved. The vise is pretty darn versatile as it is. Never having used much of a bench before I started to read Workbenches (PopularWoodworking) by Christopher Schwarz. There is one style of bench where all the legs are at 20 degrees and he makes a point to state "an ideal angle: a leg that's angled at 20 degrees can grip wide boards all the way to the floor. " The one he shows can handle up to 8" wide - perfect for most drawers. From what I can tell is that by having it angled you can clamp a board to the leg all the way to the floor as the screw is to the left and the clamping paddle is hanging to the right... they are not in line with one another. It just seems to me you would be able to clam a greater variety of boards but was hoping for someone with experience to tell me what they thought. Stephen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynthia in BC Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Stephen, I can't answer your question, but I thought I'd add a few comments on modifications of my own if anyone is interested. I'm still in the pencil and paper stage (I'm not very fluent in SketchUp), but I'm going to make it slightly shorter and wider. I think I'm going to make it 78" long but with a shoulder vise on one end extending it a few inches in one corner. I'm going with 36" wide. I need this bench to be an all-purpose table not just for hand tools but also to put things together. someone mentioned having one free end for cross-cutting, and I think that's a good idea. I'm considering having 2 channels in the top instead of one. I can't imagine how heavy this thing will be, and it will be easier for me to manage if I can handle it in 3 parts instead of one or two solid ones. I would also like to be able to put each strip through a planer or drum sander....... I mentioned in another thread that I plan to use different hardware. (I totally respect anyone's choice on what hardware they use.) I'm not looking to save a few dollars but more to personalize the bench for my own needs. I plan on a twin-screw vise on one long side on the right. Even though I'm right-handed, I plane with my left hand on the tote. On that same side, on the left I'm going to use a plain large quick-release vise mounted vertically (sideways) unless someone convinces me that that's impossible. On the other long side on the left, I'm putting a pattern makers vise. I like the idea of an articulating vise for carving and other odd things I want to do since it's designed to manage odd-shaped things and my carving stuff is on that side of the shop. Then on one end I'm putting a shoulder vise. I know someone who makes wood screws and wood threads, so I'm considering making it look traditional. I did order the Gramercy Holdfasts directly from toolsforworkingwood. I already have lots of Ash and Hickory which I'll mix for the bottom, and I'll use Douglas Fir for the top which I can buy locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Maybe if Aaron has enough time, he can quickly drop in a set of drawers. Of course I say this as if he DOESN'T have a newborn at home sucking up all his time. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephens_Shop Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Here are two photographs taken from Christopher Schwarz's book that capture the 20 degree leg vise that he discusses as having greater ability to clamp longer boards (down to the floor) at a full 8" wide. The angle shifts the head of the clamp out of line wiht the screw allowing for full open space between the jaws and the floor. This is the modification I am thinking about additn to my Roubo on the leg vise. I do not want to angle the leg so I was wondering if you could build it out to the right up top and to the left on the bottom to correspond to the angle. Any suggestions on how to accomplish this easily but also with some strength? Stephen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiser Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Hello all. I am new hear and am looking foward to the build. I am interested in doing a sliding leg vise in addition to the sliding deadman. Anyone else interested in this and would you, Marc, be able to come up with an alternate plan for this, or do they have an alternate plan at Benchcrafted. If not I will see what I can do to design and post one. Thanks all and Happy Thankgiving!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiser Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 ==> Has anyone considered making the bench shorter Been seriously thinking about it. Not sure how much I'll use the full 87" for actual work -vs- 'just another horizontal surface' to put sh*t on. The space in my shop may be better served with a narrow (say 12 inch) horizontal shelf running on the wall behind the bench as the 'horizontal grave yard' ---- I mean storage.... This has always been an issue for me -- if it's horizontal, it has something on it. I don't want my new bench to be the same, so looking at the bench as a component of a shop workflow improvement program. I can't tell you how many dings, bangs, etc my tools and projects absorb because I'm using horizontal surfaces for 'temp storage' in sort of a LIFO* queue (sorry, the Engineer in me)... If I'm looking for a shoulder plane --- well, I haven't used the bandsaw today, so that's a great place to start... I really need to break that mold, so looking at the narrow tool rail and maybe a short stack of 12x12x12 cubbys under the rail behind the bench. As an aside, Marc -- how much cleaner is your shop now that it is on video? Maybe if I setup a 'shop cam', that would force some better workflow and shop maintenance... *LIFO: Last In, First Out Sounds to me like you need storage cabinets and a more ergonomic workspace. Not to be a wisea$%. I complain about my wife finding every horizontal surface as a place to collect crap and children for that matter. With that being said, I am not one for hypocrisy, I refuse to clutter my work surfaces. The only drawback with a smaller bench is when you need a larger one where is it? This build is going to suck up a decent amount of money and time, do you really want to regret not building a bigger bench when you were building one anyway. And commit to yourself not to load it up with crap and maybe that will begin you on a journey of organization and tidiness. FFT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 would it be possible to make a pair of work benches that can be securely put together to build a small project on or pull apart so you can build a large table. what kind of issue can i expect from building something like that. would they stay even over time or can i expect them to shift and have different heights on the two sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 you have a 500 sqfoot wine cellar wow that alot of wine. my wine is a single bottle siting in back of the basement fridge that has been there since the house was bought not much of wine drinker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konkers Posted November 28, 2011 Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 Hello all. I am new hear and am looking foward to the build. I am interested in doing a sliding leg vise in addition to the sliding deadman. Anyone else interested in this and would you, Marc, be able to come up with an alternate plan for this, or do they have an alternate plan at Benchcrafted. If not I will see what I can do to design and post one. Thanks all and Happy Thankgiving!!! Shannon (http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/) has this on his bench but I've never seen him use it n his videos. Might be worth asking him how he likes it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayTalbott Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 I definitely would like to see some mobility options, as my "shop" usually involves rolling everything out into the driveway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torch02 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 I definitely would like to see some mobility options, as my "shop" usually involves rolling everything out into the driveway. This is what the PWW folks did to Megan's bench to make it mobile when it needs to be, but sturdy otherwise: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/workbenches/the-easiest-way-to-make-your-bench-mobile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubba1 Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Hello all. I am new hear and am looking foward to the build. I am interested in doing a sliding leg vise in addition to the sliding deadman. Anyone else interested in this and would you, Marc, be able to come up with an alternate plan for this, or do they have an alternate plan at Benchcrafted. If not I will see what I can do to design and post one. Thanks all and Happy Thankgiving!!! Here is a quote from the Benchcrafter pre-build info, their first build had a sliding leg vise: "Later, a sliding deadman was added to the bench to compare its function with the sliding leg vise. The deadman has many of the same functions as the sliding leg vise when coupled with a clamping accessory. It works well with the Veritas Hold Down and Surface Clamp, and the Gramercy Holdfast (2 of which are included in our benchmaker’s package). The deadman serves quite well compared to the sliding leg vise. In fact, since building the deadman, the sliding leg vise has been gathering dust. The deadman never gets in the way since it’s completely flush with the front of the bench. We include a sliding deadman in the Split-Top Roubo design instead of the sliding leg vise for these reasons. It’s a more refined accessory, and fits in better with the principle of “effortless workholding”. I would guess they still have plans for a sliding leg vise, if it is available is another question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayTalbott Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 This is what the PWW folks did to Megan's bench to make it mobile when it needs to be, but sturdy otherwise: http://www.popularwo...ur-bench-mobile I'm trying to avoid the heavy lifting to get my bench on and off it's wheels. It's going to be backbreaking enough just to build the thing - I don't want to be having to lift it every time I need to move it. I had an epiphany on a design for a wheel lifting/extending mechanism the other morning and spent some time at Lowe's doing some head scratching and picking up a few things to see what I can prototype. Then Sunday afternoon I got in a discussion with my neighbor's dad, who also got interested in the idea, and said he can help me with it. I need to draw it all up, but the gist of it is to have on each end of the bench a 2x6 (or equivalent made from 8/4) hinged off the legs that have a pair of casters attached. This would then have a 5/8" nut attached, through which would be a 5/8" threaded rod leading up to the underside of the bench top. The top end of the rod would have a pair of nuts tightened against each other with a big washer up against the underside of the bench. The very end of the rod above the nuts would have a 15 mm 12-pt socket (the size that just happens to fit over the end of 5/8" threaded rod) attached with epoxy, JB weld, or actually welded on. This would come up through the gap between split top, but still be well below the top surface of the bench. Then all you need is a 3/8" square drive adapter for a cordless drill, stick it into the socket from the top, and raise or lower the wheels on each end. Still a lot of details to be worked out, but between the threaded rods, nuts, washers, and sockets, so far I've only got about $20 invested in the idea. As I further develop the plan I'll post drawings and pictures. Any thoughts, suggestions, or recommendations would be most appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayTalbott Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Then all you need is a 3/8" square drive adapter for a cordless drill, stick it into the socket from the top, and raise or lower the wheels on each end. Oh, and for those who have nothing but hand tools, you can always use a standard ratchet handle, or even use a brace and bit with a 3/8" square drive adapter bit. I suppose you could even adapt a Benchcrafted handle for cranking the wheels up and down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joraft Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 I'm trying to avoid the heavy lifting to get my bench on and off it's wheels. It's going to be backbreaking enough just to build the thing - I don't want to be having to lift it every time I need to move it. ... Any thoughts, suggestions, or recommendations would be most appreciated. $29.99 at Harbor Freight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayTalbott Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 $29.99 at Harbor Freight That option was actually suggested to me, but since I will need to move the bench regularly I really want something integrated into the bench. Besides, jacking up one end doesn't really solve the mobility issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 If you build casters into one end of the bench that are a hair above the legs, and outboard of the legs, then when you raise the other end the bench will pivot on the legs until the casters hit the floor, and then the legs will lift and the casters will take the weight. If you build this jack into the other end of the bench, you have an integrated solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joraft Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 If you build casters into one end of the bench that are a hair above the legs, and outboard of the legs, then when you raise the other end the bench will pivot on the legs until the casters hit the floor, and then the legs will lift and the casters will take the weight. If you build this jack into the other end of the bench, you have an integrated solution. Or, have casters mounted on brackets that slide on to the end of each leg. I worked in a shop that had a set up like that. It tooks only minutes to lift each bed of the bench with the jack and put the casters on. There are many ways to do it. I guess the best way depends on how much you move the bench, and how elaborate you want to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I've seen furnature movers sold on late night infomercials in which a 112 pound woman moves a 2000 lb piano with just one hand. ... Those were only $9.95! But wait! If you order in the next 10 minutes they'll double your order at no additional cost! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runningwood Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Any lefties want to talk about modifications for lefties ? Not much written about these modifications but I would imagine the leg vise may be more comfortable on ther other side so clearnace on the right of vise ? Whenever I use a bench , always seems it would be more comfortable with the side or leg vise on the on the other side ? Marc, do you have info on modifications for left handed people ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torch02 Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Any lefties want to talk about modifications for lefties ? Not much written about these modifications but I would imagine the leg vise may be more comfortable on ther other side so clearnace on the right of vise ? Whenever I use a bench , always seems it would be more comfortable with the side or leg vise on the on the other side ? Marc, do you have info on modifications for left handed people ? The positioning of the vises is the only thing I know of that changes for lefties vs. righties. For lefties, you want the face vise on the right and the end vise on the left of your bench. Maybe Shannon or Matt will chime in with any other changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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