thewoodwhisperer Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I figured it would be cool to have a thread specifically focused on bench finishes. Even folks who aren't building the Split Top Roubo should feel free to chime in with their opinion. It would be cool to hear what you applied, why, and whether it met your expectations. I used Tried & True Varnish Oil. It's more or less an oil/varnish blend of sorts as it contains polymerized boiled linseed oil and an old school varnish (no VOCs). It has to be applied in super thin coats otherwise it will never dry. So far, I have to say I'm a little disappointed in the product as I don't see a significant difference between it and something like boiled linseed oil. I wasn't really expecting the results we might see from a modern Danish Oil, but I did expect it to NOT behave exactly like a regular pure oil. And by that I mean I don't see any evidence of a film and the finish is taking a very long time to dry. Five days so far in truly ideal dry and warm Arizona air and the surface still feels tacky. So I would like to apply more coats in the hopes of getting a light film, but I am not going to apply more oil to a surface that is still actively curing. As a point of interest, the original rag I used to apply the finish 5 days ago was laid out over the garbage can in a single layer to cure. It is still soft and usable 5 days later. Perhaps my expectations are off and I don't completely understand the product, but I really expected the finish to develop some rigidity within that time frame. That said, an oil finish is a great finish for a bench so I'm not really complaining. I can always hit it with some Danish Oil later if I want to. But the product does cost quite a bit so I guess I was hoping for something that might wow me and convince me to use this on some of my other projects. Perhaps over the course of a few weeks as the finish fully cures, I'll change my opinion. But given the dry time and my lack of patience, I can't imagine I would ever use this on a piece of furniture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwatkins Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I've been pondering this topic for a few weeks myself. I too am looking for something that is going to give me a film that is fairly easy to maintain and repair but haven't been impressed by much of what I've found. I'm starting to lean in the direction that I use on my assmebly table with a few coats of tung oil and some paste wax. It will give me resistence to moisture and any glue that may accidently find itself on the bench but might prove to be a bit too slick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I used Sutherland Wells polymerized tung oil. This is a favorite of mine because it allows you to build to a very protective finish, if that is the goal. It applies like any oil finish. Flood and wipe. After the 2nd coat, I generally start applying like a wax. Drying time is usually 24 hours, but the beauty is if you don't get to it for a few days, there isn't a need to sand for another coat. I've been doing some reading and will try Waterlox Original next. I've heard the low VOC formula isn't as easy to work with regarding both durability and build and the difference in VOCs seem small. (null) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I was going to wait until your next video to see what you were using, but after reading the post, I think I will go with a short 1/3 boiled linseed, short 1/3 spar varnish, and a long 1/3 mineral spirits. Lie-Nielson says it uses this on their benches (without the 'short' and 'long' modifiers), and I think Schwarz said he used something similar in his interview. I have used this mixture on some smaller items and it seems to work well. The humidity here in Flagstaff has been about 8%, so I think 24 hours between coats should work. Besides, I already have all the ingredients. I've still need to drill the holdfast holes and then I am ready to finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmykx250 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 If it was me I would use tung oil. Great moisture protection and penetration and it's easy to touch up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiser Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I went with 1/3 blo, 1/3 mineral spirits and 1/3 epifanes clear varnish. I am happy with the results other than the fact that this thing is sucking finish like a camel. I wanted the uv protection of the epifanes being that the bench will see as much sunlight, direct or indirect, as possible. I am using teak oil finish and wiping on oiled based poly on a project and am liking the results from that mix, but do not want the repair issues that come with poly on my bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imaginos Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 What are you all doing for surface prep? I'm reluctant to sand it significantly since I'm fairly happy with the grippy nature of my surfaces so far, and honestly I'm tempted to clean up some of the lingering pencil marks with a card scraper or a smoothing plane and call it good. If I did sand, I wouldn't want to go much further than 80 grit. Also, I did my build out of SYP and some of the boards were very resinous. To the point where after several days (now weeks) you can still feel it tacky to the touch in some of the thicker veins. I have no idea if that's going to matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I removed some pencil marks with scrapers. All the rest stopped with blades. (null) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I am not building a bench ... yet ... I thought using an oily finish would create a slick surface where your work would "slide" over the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Well smoothness is pretty much a function of the type of oil finish you use, the condition of the wood on which you apply it, and how many coats you apply. So it all depends on the circumstance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Well, while my finish is tacky, the fact that I've left the top fresh from the jointer plane makes it a bit rough. Definitely not a slick surface. I am not building a bench ... yet ... I thought using an oily finish would create a slick surface where your work would "slide" over the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiser Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 What are you all doing for surface prep? I'm reluctant to sand it significantly since I'm fairly happy with the grippy nature of my surfaces so far, and honestly I'm tempted to clean up some of the lingering pencil marks with a card scraper or a smoothing plane and call it good. If I did sand, I wouldn't want to go much further than 80 grit. Also, I did my build out of SYP and some of the boards were very resinous. To the point where after several days (now weeks) you can still feel it tacky to the touch in some of the thicker veins. I have no idea if that's going to matter. I decked it with a router and sled and removed pencil marks with a no 8 jointer..............have some tear out.(that's ok.....isn;t it) and in the words of The Schwarz "2 coats of equal parts BLO, Varnish and mineral spirits and Bob's your uncle" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Thanks guys. I have been thinking for a few years in how to make my garage shop more efficient. One of these days I will build a bench and follow your lead. Definetly the bench will be a Roubo, you can't beat it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allencrane Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 I figured it would be cool to have a thread specifically focused on bench finishes. Even folks who aren't building the Split Top Roubo should feel free to chime in with their opinion. It would be cool to hear what you applied, why, and whether it met your expectations. I used Tried & True Varnish Oil. It's more or less an oil/varnish blend of sorts as it contains polymerized boiled linseed oil and an old school varnish (no VOCs). It has to be applied in super thin coats otherwise it will never dry. So far, I have to say I'm a little disappointed in the product as I don't see a significant difference between it and something like boiled linseed oil. I wasn't really expecting the results we might see from a modern Danish Oil, but I did expect it to NOT behave exactly like a regular pure oil. And by that I mean I don't see any evidence of a film and the finish is taking a very long time to dry. Five days so far in truly ideal dry and warm Arizona air and the surface still feels tacky. So I would like to apply more coats in the hopes of getting a light film, but I am not going to apply more oil to a surface that is still actively curing. As a point of interest, the original rag I used to apply the finish 5 days ago was laid out over the garbage can in a single layer to cure. It is still soft and usable 5 days later. Perhaps my expectations are off and I don't completely understand the product, but I really expected the finish to develop some rigidity within that time frame. That said, an oil finish is a great finish for a bench so I'm not really complaining. I can always hit it with some Danish Oil later if I want to. But the product does cost quite a bit so I guess I was hoping for something that might wow me and convince me to use this on some of my other projects. Perhaps over the course of a few weeks as the finish fully cures, I'll change my opinion. But given the dry time and my lack of patience, I can't imagine I would ever use this on a piece of furniture. Marc, I couldn't agree more. Tried and True makes and nice warm finish...but it takes a very long time to cure. Like you said, I may not completely understand the product, but this is after ONE coat. The instructions said to put on in thin coats, but I found that it rubbed in like thick syrup, so I'm not sure how I could have gone thinner. It's taken about 2 weeks for this first coat to cure, and this has been in ideal drying conditions, 75-80 degree San Antonio spring. It looks terrific, but I will have to think twice about using it on a project where I need a 1-2 day finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Sutherland Wells polymerized tung oil. Lightly scuffed surface with 40g paper -- nice even texture and slightly rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlawyer Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 I used lee valley polymerized tung oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcanuck Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I used lee valley polymerized tung oil. How much did you end up needing? I am debating between this and the Schwarz mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwightbartlett Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 I went with straight Watco danish oil. I've never had drying issues and it gives a nice color to the bench. I usually top coat with arm-r-seal but not this time, it is a workbench, not living room furniture! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 I decked it with a router and sled and removed pencil marks with a no 8 jointer..............have some tear out.(that's ok.....isn;t it) and in the words of The Schwarz "2 coats of equal parts BLO, Varnish and mineral spirits and Bob's your uncle" I don't have the Schwarz workbench book...can anyone tell me what kind of varnish he recommends for that mixture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 I doubt Schwarz uses anything too fancy. I'd recommend a can of good old cheap Minwax poly for your varnish component. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jodavis Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 What about minwax tung oil? Also general finishes seal a cell mixed with BLO and mineral spirits 1/3 each? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Page 9 "I like an oil/varnish blend (sold as Danish Oil) or straight boiled linseed oil." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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