robjeffking Posted August 18, 2012 Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 I really like this new add-on I made for my planer. I've added quite a few new tools to the shop this summer and Ive had to get creative making all the tools share space. I noticed that my work table and planer were almost even with each other. Now I can put the planer right behind my work bench stack the board in my guide jig. The sides of the jig helps long boards track straight through the planer and catch the exit roller stand. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 I made something similar for the little original Ryobi lunchbox planer . Flat infeed and out feed and small cuts are how to get the best results from that type of planer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missing fingers Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I have been looking for something to eliminate snipe. I have a dewalt model 735 thickness planer. this planer does not come with in or out board feed table attachments and I'm not sure they will work if I did purchase them. Does anyone know how to eliminate the snipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I have been looking for something to eliminate snipe. I have a dewalt model 735 thickness planer. this planer does not come with in or out board feed table attachments and I'm not sure they will work if I did purchase them. Does anyone know how to eliminate the snipe? Eliminating snipe is like trying to find a leprechaun. The best you can do is manage it, and sometimes you get lucky and have none. Once you think you've found a technique to eliminate it, and run your prize lumber through, whammy, you get snipe! The infeed and out feed tables will really help, and is a great first strip to managing snipe. Make sure your blades are sharp, your rollers are clean, and you take a LIGHT cut. Also, leave your stock a few inches long in each direction "just in case". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missing fingers Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 I measured how much snipe and it measures 3" seems like such a waste of wood to cut off. I could try sanding, I read you could lift up on the board going in and coming out. I need the 6' lengths so I am limited how much to cut off. I'm going to try all the suggestions you gave me, its much appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 The planer you have is a good quality machine, so you made a good choice. 3" on each side does seem a little on the high side, but not unheard of. I routinely leave my stock 4 to 6 inches long to accommodate for snipe, if the workpiece allows. Try the steps above and you will likely see a great reduction in snipe. Let us know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missing fingers Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 The planer you have is a good quality machine, so you made a good choice. 3" on each side does seem a little on the high side, but not unheard of. I routinely leave my stock 4 to 6 inches long to accommodate for snipe, if the workpiece allows. Try the steps above and you will likely see a great reduction in snipe. Let us know how it goes. I will, over the next few days. I'm also going to look around for the in and out feed tables only after I try the above thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 For a lunchbox planer, I'm still using the very first model Delta, which probably has the worst reputation there is for snipe. I don't bother to use the infeed and outfeed tables that came with it, I think 23 years ago. We just hold the board up as it goes in, and hold it up as it comes out the first and last bits. We hold it up to the point of picking that side of the planer up. It has zero snipe like that, and the last we used it was to clean up some yellow pine 2x12x16s that we were building a cantilevered roof edge on a boat house with. The cantilever went out 6 feet to cover jet skiis on a lift on one side. It's the weight of the board wanting to lever the last bit of board up into the cutterhead that causes the snipe. Pick it up to the point that it would rather stay down on the table, and there will be no snipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 I have a Dewalt 735 planer also. I did purchase the infeed and outfeed tables for it and they helped with snipe somewhat but did not cure it. I too lift up on the free end of the board when starting and stopping the operation. I have found the best way to control snipe is to use scrap boards of an equal thickness to lead ahead and behind the good board to catch the snipe before the good board gets to the end. Also, if you have multiple boards to plane and the width permits, if you feed the second board near the end of the first, it will keep the pressure roller from dropping down and causing snipe. The only problem with that is you usually need two people (a "feeder" and a "catcher") to keep things going. A friend and I ran about eight boards through my planer one after another and only got snipe on the first board so we just numbered that one "ONE" and made sure that it was always the first board in the chain as we worked all the wood through to final dimension. So out of eight pieces about 4 to 6 foot long we lost about 2" of wood to snipe. Rog 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missing fingers Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 That did the trick, I cleaned, took light cuts and lifted up on the boards at start and stop. The boards in-between were no problem. I decided not to purchase the in/out feed tables as they are over 100$ if I find a deal on them I'll purchase them but for now I will hold off. Thanks to all your good advise, Its very much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I have the same planer (DW735). I have the infeed and outfeed tables, and I adjust them so that the outside edges are tilted up ever so slightly - this has the same effect as "lifting" the end of the board. To do this I lay a straightedge through the planer sitting on a few pennies on the bed, and adjust the tables so the outside edge just touches the straightedge. Clean rollers, waxed tables and a waxed bed are a necessity.. I second Roger's advice about using an extra piece before and after the board to eliminate snipe, or send multiple pieces through butted up against each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 If I have someone available to help me, I do the continuous feed with a lead and end block of sacrificial wood. Almost always I have no snipe on my work pieces. But, if I am alone, I bite the bullet sometimes and designate boards that I do not mind getting snipe. I do continuos feed as much as possible, but with longer boards it is hard. Pretty good idea of what I do: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodHead Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Gentlemen. I have a couple questions on this topic....(I am new to forum so please forgive me if I am not using correct protocol) As I understand (based on this forum, and this thread)...snipe has two root causes.... 1.) The blades, when rotating and cutting, tend to lift the board a bit, before the front end reaches the second roller. When the board lifts, the cutters cut deeper, until the front end hits the second roller which pulls it back down. (and same thing in reverse on back end) I assume this will contribute more on smaller boards. 2.) The blade assembly is directly connected to the roller base assembly themselves (Its all connected to a structure, and the this structure is secure to the planer, AND there is some tolerance in the entire assembly, so when the FIRST roller hits the end, leverage causes the blade assembly to dip a bit (since the pivot point of the blade/roller assembly is in the middle) and this position of the assembly is held, until the SECOND roller hits the front end of the board, and at that point, the pivot is returned to neutral, moving the cutter a bit up, and back to the neutral cutting position. Firstly, does everyone agree with this? And Secondly, has anyone tried using a Sled to help eliminate the first cause, since if you hold the board down to the sled with hand pressure as you feed it thru, (which you can do as long as the sled is supported underneath by a long in feed table), the board will not be easily lifted by the blades. Or would this be no different than pressing the board down (without a sled) on a long in feed table. Thirdly, has anyone ever come up with a way to prevent this "Pivoting" that occurs? Something other than using sacrificial rails or running lead and trail boards? Something more permanent to address the root cause of the pivot. Has anyone found out where exactly this tolerate play is, and secured the assembly? It just seems to me that this is a problem that MUST have a solution. I am just trying to wrap my head around what is going on here,...so hopefully I can come up with a "solution"... Thoughts? Thanks! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Gentlemen. I have a couple questions on this topic....(I am new to forum so please forgive me if I am not using correct protocol) As I understand (based on this forum, and this thread)...snipe has two root causes.... 1.) The blades, when rotating and cutting, tend to lift the board a bit, before the front end reaches the second roller. When the board lifts, the cutters cut deeper, until the front end hits the second roller which pulls it back down. (and same thing in reverse on back end) I assume this will contribute more on smaller boards. 2.) The blade assembly is directly connected to the roller base assembly themselves (Its all connected to a structure, and the this structure is secure to the planer, AND there is some tolerance in the entire assembly, so when the FIRST roller hits the end, leverage causes the blade assembly to dip a bit (since the pivot point of the blade/roller assembly is in the middle) and this position of the assembly is held, until the SECOND roller hits the front end of the board, and at that point, the pivot is returned to neutral, moving the cutter a bit up, and back to the neutral cutting position. Firstly, does everyone agree with this? And Secondly, has anyone tried using a Sled to help eliminate the first cause, since if you hold the board down to the sled with hand pressure as you feed it thru, (which you can do as long as the sled is supported underneath by a long in feed table), the board will not be easily lifted by the blades. Or would this be no different than pressing the board down (without a sled) on a long in feed table. Thirdly, has anyone ever come up with a way to prevent this "Pivoting" that occurs? Something other than using sacrificial rails or running lead and trail boards? Something more permanent to address the root cause of the pivot. Has anyone found out where exactly this tolerate play is, and secured the assembly? It just seems to me that this is a problem that MUST have a solution. I am just trying to wrap my head around what is going on here,...so hopefully I can come up with a "solution"... Thoughts? Thanks! Dave This is the best explanation I have found for why snipe occurs, in a whole: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missing fingers Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Yes, that is why the Dewalt 735 planer specs show a 0.001" snipe on the in/out feed.( Fine Wood Working winter 2007/2008 Planer review) The lock would be a good correction as it would prevent no movement of the planer head, however this brand has no lock. I'm going to incorporate using scrap wood at the beginning and end of the planing process. Thats the best I can do to help with the boards I purchased as I need the full length for the project I am doing. Thanks for your help Gent's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I was taught to run a board behind to eliminate snipe on the back end, also works on the front. John Heisz (youtube) permanently mounted a melamine table that run through the planer. You lose 3/4" in depth but looks like it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I thought I was the only one with snipe problem. It sure cost a lot in waste. I'll run the board thru, cut of the two ends with the snipe, turn it over and do the same thing. By the time I've removed 1/4" of thickness, I've lost 2 foot of board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I thought I was the only one with snipe problem. It sure cost a lot in waste. I'll run the board thru, cut of the two ends with the snipe, turn it over and do the same thing. By the time I've removed 1/4" of thickness, I've lost 2 foot of board. You don't have to cut the snipe off after each pass through the planer. If I get snipe on one or both ends, I just keep running it through until I get my thickness and then cut off the snipe. I lose maybe 3" of board on each end at the most. Once a board is snipped, it doesn't matter. In fact, if your planing off as much as a 1/4" you could end up getting rid of the original snipe problem anyway by using a few of the tricks posted here! Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Just Kidding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missing fingers Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hey just an update to my problem with snipe. I have purchased the in and out feed tables and I have managed to eliminate the snipe completely. Its unfortunate that Dewalt doesn't sell this planer with the tables. Like John Fitz said, I raised the in/out feed tables slightly and this did the trick. I highly recommend this to anyone with this problem on the Dewalt 735 planer. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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