xxdabroxx Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 (edited) Hi all, with my table saw finally on its way I need to start designing my vanity which leads my first question. If I go with a frameless design, can I have cabinet doors next to the wall that open? Or will these not work? Would it look funny to have a filler panel on one side but not the other? There will be a wall on the left side but not the right. Also of note, I have a square vessel sink to go atop (centered), hence the low height. Edited December 1, 2015 by xxdabroxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 you have to consider two things -#1 what kind of hinges are you using? The specs of the hinge will define whether or not you can go against the wall. I am pretty sure that if you buy the right hinge you can go against the wall (or very close)#2 will you have any hardware on the face of the cabinet door? If there is a pull or knob on the door then that will keep it from opening all of the way (which may or may not bug you) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted November 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 I'm kinda liking this layout, only one door in the middle, the rest is drawers. I need to verify some plumbing locations when I get home to do a feasibility check though. Give me some room for big stuff like towels and TP and small toiletries too. I'm definitely open to design suggestions though. you have to consider two things -#1 what kind of hinges are you using? The specs of the hinge will define whether or not you can go against the wall. I am pretty sure that if you buy the right hinge you can go against the wall (or very close)#2 will you have any hardware on the face of the cabinet door? If there is a pull or knob on the door then that will keep it from opening all of the way (which may or may not bug you)I'm just completely unfamiliar with whats available. Maybe I'll spend some more time at rocklers website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 I would look at some other place than Rockler for the hinges. Try Custom Service Hardware. The hinge will determine how close you can get to the wall. As for the design you posted, I don't see an issue if the door is only in the middle. I would make sure the drawers are balanced, in my opinion both sides should be symmetrical. You will also need to determine if you are going with single or dual sinks, because it can affect your potential storage. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted November 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 (edited) I would look at some other place than Rockler for the hinges. Try Custom Service Hardware. The hinge will determine how close you can get to the wall. As for the design you posted, I don't see an issue if the door is only in the middle. I would make sure the drawers are balanced, in my opinion both sides should be symmetrical. You will also need to determine if you are going with single or dual sinks, because it can affect your potential storage. I've got a single square vessel sink to sit atop the vanity. It will be centered, plumbing is already in the wall. Being that it is a vessel sink I think I could make a drawer in the middle too, it would just have to be shallower than the rest to avoid the drain. Not sure if I need it yet or not though. Sink is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EEXD0SI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 I'll check out custom service hardware. Thanks, Rockler is about the only place I knew of. Edited November 19, 2015 by xxdabroxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 I got my new saw put together on Thursday morning before it got too busy, then bought lumber and got it wired up on Fri. My dad helped me make a conversion extension cord so I didn't have to mess up the factory cord (I plan to run it on 220 when I get more power to my shop). Never mind the mess, I'm still in the process of moving in/ renovating. Meaning nothing has a home yet. Then I spent the rest of the day Fri drawing up a cut sheet for all the parts of the vanity. Saturday morning I got up and made a panel sled for the saw. The runner is a bit sloppy but it works for the task. I'll build a nice cross cut sled later. I got everything cut to size Sat, then I did all the dado's on Sunday. Sunday evening I attached the edge banding before calling it quits.(I hear these things work great with beards)Then tonight after work I got it glued and nailed together with the help of my dad and a buddy. Having the extra hands was a big help on the left side. (The left side goes against a wall, thus the "B" side is out) All of the panels will be inset of the perimeter face frame and will have close gaps between. I still haven't decided if I'm going to paint or stain the outside. Either way I want the inside clear coated in some way. I like the light wood inside. This is the sink that is going to sit atop the vanity. My workbench slab is sitting at 34", the exact height I'm building the cabinet to finish out at. Seems like it will work pretty well, not too high. This is the color I'm leaning towards if I stain, although I think it needs a second coat. (sorry for the crap pic, low light and deadish phone = no flash)And here is a better picture of the bathroom it's going in. I'm using all oil rubbed bronze hardware throughout the house. Never mind that window that needs trim, did I mention I just got my table saw? I'm thinking of painting the vanity a battleship grey, maybe a little darker OR staining them nearly black which I'm having a hard time achieving. I think the brown just looks bad against all the grey in the room. Any thoughts or ideas? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 nice update! it is coming together very well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisG-Canada Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) I think the best results for staining black are achieved by first using black dye (1 or 2 applications - depends on the wood) then applying black wiping stain once the dye is dry.As always, try on a sample first... ?If your considering other options, I use a similar tile in my master bathroom and we chose a white vanity cabinets with a greyish countertop. I'll see if I can find a picture. Edited December 1, 2015 by ChrisG-Canada 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) That looks really nice Chris. Now I have to consider the opposite of what I was leaning towards. So many decisions... I think the best results for staining black are achieved by first using black dye (1 or 2 applications - depends on the wood) then applying black wiping stain once the dye is dry.As always, try on a sample first... ?If your considering other options, I use a similar tile in my master bathroom and we chose a white vanity cabinets with a greyish countertop. I'll see if I can find a picture.Would you use water or alcohol based dye? I'm thinking water based then with an oil based stain over? I think I may pick up some Rit dye, their website supports its use on wood and I can't source any wood dye locally. https://www.ritstudio.com/techniques/materials/wood-and-wicker-technique/ Edited December 1, 2015 by xxdabroxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 I llove the European shower. The house I grew up in had one and I miss it. The vanity is coming along well. I dig the vessel seat too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) Going to give this a try tonight. Do you guys who are familiar think that a pint of Arm-r-seal will be enough to finish this? That great deal I got on a quart turned out to be a pint... Edited December 1, 2015 by xxdabroxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 I might consider going with a clear coat. Black would be nice, but bathrooms can start to look claustrophobic if everything is dark. A light wood with a clear coat would have a nice modern look that goes with the grays, I think.If you do go the dye route and that RIT dye doesn't work, I've had good luck with TransTint dyes in the past. They are available at Woodcraft and on Amazon if you don't have one locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Going to give this a try tonight. Do you guys who are familiar think that a pint of Arm-r-seal will be enough to finish this? That great deal I got on a quart turned out to be a pint... Beware! RIT black dye can turn out very purple-ish! I hope you are testing on scraps. If true black is your goal, india ink might be a better choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 I tried the dye on a piece of scrap ply tonight. I sectioned it off into 3 strips then applied 1,2, & 3 coats of dye respectively. Then I split that in half and put a single coat of ARS on one side and a coat of ebony die on the other side. Being red/green colorblind the purpleish hue would be hard to detect. I'll upload a pic in a bit so you guys can take a look. My dog is the only other one around and I don't think he would be much help on this one... I'm really liking the lightest one so far. It looks pretty black but still has a lot of grain showing. I want to put a coat of ARS on in the morning so I can see how much it darkens up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Well, after all that testing I think I'm going clear. I made a test drawer front tonight and it looks pretty good imo. Sure the joints could be better but I'll work a little harder on the real ones. The wood I have for the real ones has a lot more figure in it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 I think clear finish is a good choice. That wood looks very nice against the tile. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 I think the clear was a good choice too. Can't wait to see it all finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisG-Canada Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 The wood looks good!Just curious how the dye turned out - for future reference. Can you post any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 I'll post up some pics this evening. I really liked a light coat of dye with a single coat of ebony stain over it. But I think I'll like the clear finish better in the long run. It was fun to play with the dye though, definitely could be useful in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Hinges, slides, and my 4 pack of clamps came in. These are my first parallel clamps, Jet brand, they are a lot more heavy duty than I expected. I'm pretty impressed and can't wait to put them to work. Only think I'll need now are pulls and the forsner bit sized for the hinges. Hopefully lowes or hd has one in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 The only time I've used the RIT dye in black was to tint some plaster of paris as grain filler. Applied to red oak, it gave it a very zebra-wood-ish appearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 The only time I've used the RIT dye in black was to tint some plaster of paris as grain filler. Applied to red oak, it gave it a very zebra-wood-ish appearance.That sounds kind of awesome. Do you have any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Dknapp, I believe I posted a journal on it, but can't find it at the moment. Was an accent table, basically 2 disks with 4 legs, connected with Maloof-ish leg to seat joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Didn't get much done last night but I took a picture of my old test board. Light side is one, two, and three coats of dye. Dark side has one layer of ebony stain over them. There is also a single coat of ars on top but I didn't sand very well. Hardware is a bigger pile than I expected. The concealed drawer slides are big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Coming together nice, this is going to look sweet when you are done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.