Popular Post Trip Posted February 1, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 For those looking for some cyber-woodworking as a rational alternative to the Iowa Caucasus, here's a new Tip... Last week’s tip was more of an involved technique, and didn’t seem to resonate with many WTO members... So, I’ve made the switch to simple tips that solve actual problems from the weekend's shop frustrations --- stuff that may be immediately usable to a wider audience... Hope the change meets with more success... Well, winter’s here and the heating has kicked-into high-gear... Right now, the shop's sitting at 32%RH... ..and... This has become a familiar scene: Actually, a more realistic scene is me cursing-up a storm as the chisel’s edge hits the ground with the handle still sitting firmly in my hand... Sound familiar??? Socket-chisels have a lot going for them, but the handle coming-off at inopportune times is not one of them... For those not t familiar with socket-chisels, they have a hollow tang to accept the handle. This design has several advantages: it's very strong, permits easy replacement of the handle if it breaks and allow easy substitution between striking (bench) and push (paring) handles depending on the job at hand... To switch handles, sharply tap the handle against the bench, the handle pops-out... Or in my case, wait until winter and the chisels will fall from my racks like icicles from my gutters... The solution to a loose handle provided by LN: use hairspray (cheap spray lacquer) to adhere the handle to the chisel... The big advantage is you can still switch handles with ease and the process is completely reversible. The downside, it rarely works for long --- hairspray is not gap filling... The solution proposed by several very notable talking heads: epoxy the handle to the chisel (and no, I'm not joking)... The big advantage is that it’s permanent. The downside is that it’s permanent – and rather defeats the point of purchasing socket-chisels... There must be a better way.... If your bench is like mine, there’s always a pile of shavings in the corner -- or go make some: Wrap the shavings around the handle’s tenon: And you’re done... Note: the shaving fills the voids in the tang. The handle is now tight and won't unintentionally slip off... Enjoy... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Wright Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Nice! thanks for the great Idea. I am going to give that a try in a bit here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I dropped my 1/4" Stanley chisel on the floor once and cursed for probably 30 min strait. This has been answering a question that I've been asking for a long time. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Super. That is the one thing that bugs me about my chisels. I'll definitely give this a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Great tip Trip. My 1/4" LN falls out a lot. All the others are OK but I'll try out the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Harvey Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Two comments: I have a rubber mat on the floor in front of the workbench to take the worst of a fallen tool's momentum. Easier on the feet too. I've fitted several chisel handles and haven’t had a problem. What I do is stick the handle in the socket, twist it hard a bit, remove and scrape the shiny spots with a card scraper. Repeat until the shine is even all over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 ==>^^^ Or you can use the candle trick... I'll let you look that one up... Tuning the tenon can work, but it might not... Part of the issue is an ill-fitting tenon... But the other part problem is that tangs can be ill-formed... So shaving the tenon will only remove excess stock -- not provide stock where deficits exist... That's where the place shaving comes into its own --- it fills deficits, where needed... Obviously, the 'best' method to address both issues is epoxy, but the cure is worse than the disease... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Would there exist an adhesive or glue that could hold the handle in place in a non-permanent manner? Hot glue, hide glue, something else that is sticky and would wash off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 3 hours ago, hhh said: For those looking for some cyber-woodworking as a rational alternative to the Iowa Caucasus, here's a new Tip... Last week’s tip was more of an involved technique, and didn’t seem to resonate with many WTO members... So, I’ve made the switch to simple tips that solve actual problems from the weekend's shop frustrations --- stuff that may be immediately usable to a wider audience... Hope the change meets with more success... Thanks for the Tips, HHH. I'm not sure what you base your assessment on, but I say: "Don't limit yourself to Tips that won't cost me $ or to immediate problem solvers. Toss out anything that comes to mind." I find all of Trip's Tips to be incredibly interesting, informative, and useful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 ==>^^^ Last time I looked, 3M's adhesive catalog was around 30 pages... So there must be something... But honestly, plane shavings are both ubiquitous and free... It's kinda hard to beat free... BTW: I've also used sawdust -- and that also works... Shavings are just less messy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 4 hours ago, hhh said: Last week’s tip was more of an involved technique, and didn’t seem to resonate with many WTO members... So, I’ve made the switch to simple tips that solve actual problems from the weekend's shop frustrations --- stuff that may be immediately usable to a wider audience... Hope the change meets with more success... Involved techniques are good too! I've enjoyed all the tips so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Hide glue should allow it to break if needed. I don't have socket chisels to go try it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 ==>Hide glue should allow it to break if needed. Hummmmm.... Water-based adhesive and tool steel? Let's see if we can improve on that: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/Non-Structural-Adhesives?N=5003404&rt=r3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I'll offer another idea. I haven't tried it, but with experience working on golf clubs, I feel certain it will work just fine. 3M makes an adhesive that comes in the little duo-tubes used by all the Tour Vans that work on golf clubs for the guys on the PGA tour, called DP810. It's not really an epoxy, but is used where epoxy normally is used for holding golf club heads on. http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/507286-3m-dp-810-epoxy/ (I reread that thread out of curiosity, and saw that I had posted in it August 2011) The uncured stuff cleans up with the same stuff, like acetone, that cleans up epoxy. The big advantage of DP810 is that it breaks down with heat at a much lower temperature than any epoxy. Not only does it break down at low heat, but it completely changes state. It bubbles all up, and turns into something crispy, but not very hard that is easily cleaned out of the clubhead hosel, and off the shaft tip, with no chance of damaging anything. The disadvantages are that the duo-tubes are best used with a special gun that you would have to buy, DP810 is not exactly cheap, and to take a chisel off a handle, a heat gun might work, but most likely you would need a little butane torch like most people use for pulling golf club heads. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-DP810-Acrylic-Adhesive/dp/B007XIL9XE DP810 comes in other colors than black too-like tan. Shelf life is long like epoxy. Here is the gun I use, and when I was looking for one, this place had the best price:http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_ESG2_A_The+GolfWorks+Epoxy+Cartridge+Gun_A_c2p_E_cs I use a little butane torch similar to this that I bought in Lowes:http://www.amazon.com/SE-MT3001-Deluxe-Butane-Ignition/dp/B005FN0ZCK/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1454452086&sr=1-2&keywords=butane+micro-torch I have used this in socket chisels, since I have the stuff for working on golf clubs anyway, but seldom use those chisels. No handle has come loose, but I have not taken one off. I'm just going by my experience using the stuff on golf clubs. In trying different shafts, you need a way to pull them without damaging anything. There is a big market for shaft pulls. I've never bought a new shaft, but ones tried on tour. There are a bunch of other 3M DP adhesives. One rear plastic fender on my dually has been held together with DP100 for probably ten years, as has the plastic nose piece on my John Deere tractor, and the leak in the gas tank on my generator was fixed with DP100. It's handy stuff to have around. You can use mixing nozzles with the duo cartridges, and run the tiniest little bead right where you want it. http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_VB1021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 cool and FWIW I loved the thread on the outdoor furniture and the UHMW plastic foot pads and the finishing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Harvey Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Actually, I think any kind of glue in a chisel socket would fail when you start hitting it with the big mallet. Just start with a clean socket and get the handle tapered close and it should bed in tight. One thing, make sure the tenon doesn't bottom out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Here's one of mine that's held on with DP810. That is a urethane mallet, but it's a 30 ouncer. http://historic-house-restoration.com/images/dromgoolebeams_002.JPG No chisel will ever see the forces inside a golf club .335 inch hosel. It amazes me that a golf club can hit a ball at 120 mph many times, and not break anywhere, especially with the head offset to one side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 13 hours ago, Tom King said: No chisel will ever see the forces inside a golf club .335 inch hosel. It amazes me that a golf club can hit a ball at 120 mph many times, and not break anywhere, especially with the head offset to one side. That reminds me of the sound a club head makes as it flies off to crash through the window of the clubhouse. Yeah ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Yeah, if you miss the sweet spot badly, the shaft won't be good to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Stop talking about golf there is still snow on the ground and i can go. I was also thinking on my drive home last night about hot glue or some other meltable glue. I remember there was a glue i used with hockey sticks that we would melt to change blades. I also highly doubt a chisel sees the forces that a hockey stick does. The down side is that it's messy, after you use it'd i don't know if you'd get the socket clean enough to go back to the normal method of holding the handle in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Not that i ever doubted you but i got around to trying the shaving trick and thanks for the tip. Out go the cheap marples chisels in come the stanley SW. I've been waiting until i got good enough sharpening to start using them so i didn't ruin them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Prunier Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 I scruff my handles with 120 grit sandpaper and have good luck. Another thing is, train your hand / eye to pick the chisel up by the steel end of the handle and not the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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