Trying to make the perfect shooting board


rodger.

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I am trying to make a "perfect" shooting board for mitres. I make quite a few frames as commissions, and I normally use a table saw jig, which does a perfect job. As the weather gets cold, I would like to make some frames solely by hand in my "indoor" shop (basement hand tool shop) as the garage shop is crazy cold right now.

Anyways, I made my third or fourth board tonight, and it seems to work pretty well. I created a triangle, so I can shoot both sides of the mitre. As long as I keep track of which mitre was shot on which side of the triangle, any errors should offset and give a perfect 90 corner.

The problem is that I can push the plane to shoot in one direction, but it's akward to do so in the opposite direction. I have started to pull the plane toward me to so I can avoid pushing in an akward position.

Does anyone else do this? Or do other people have a trick or technique for shooting both sides of the same jig without the awkwardness?

Here are some photos to help get an idea of what I am talking about.

The first photo is the push position, and the second photo is the pull position.

post-6372-0-27933500-1393988703_thumb.jppost-6372-0-12409300-1393988728_thumb.jp

Note - this is simply a prototype, and a dressed up version will be constructed after I get all the details worked out. I am using a bevel up block plane as the test stock is small, but I will normally use a larger plane (No 5 most likely, or maybe a dedicated LV shooter).

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Eventually I'm going to attempt to duplicate Tico Vogt's Super Shoot to the best of my abilities.  As far as I know there are no plans available, but this thing is the mac daddy pimp of all shooting boards.  Take a look, see if you can pick up any tips to improve on yours.

 

http://ticovogt.com/toolworks/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=7&zenid=8319306ffd52a493ea6a7be0d2af20c1

 

Vogt-Super-Chute.jpg

 

 

Vogt-Super-Chute-Donkey-Ear.jpg

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Eventually I'm going to attempt to duplicate Tico Vogt's Super Shoot to the best of my abilities.  As far as I know there are no plans available, but this thing is the mac daddy pimp of all shooting boards.  Take a look, see if you can pick up any tips to improve on yours.

 

http://ticovogt.com/toolworks/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=7&zenid=8319306ffd52a493ea6a7be0d2af20c1

 

Vogt-Super-Chute.jpg

 

 

Vogt-Super-Chute-Donkey-Ear.jpg

I like the ramp idea, but I think a dedicated shooting plane with a skewed blade will negate the need for the ramp.

Pretty cool shooting board though!

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I think pug might mean the ramp on the straight board :),
 
Option 1
 
Miter-Shooting-Board-and-Bench-Hook-300x
 
Option 2
 
Shooting-Board-129.jpg I want to make one like this. This type is used along the length of the bench instead of the depth

Although tico's board is really really neat I persoanlly could not be bothered to take the time. A ramp is a nice feature and perhaps I'll add one some day. I found a 10 min make worked more than fine on Idigbo which for those who have used it is a nasty break out prone pile of dung.

 

post-11619-0-97707200-1393994962_thumb.j

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Although tico's board is really really neat I persoanlly could not be bothered to take the time.

 

Honestly, I probably never will either.  But not because it would take time, only because I wonder if I could ever place those accessory holes perfectly without a CNC.  I feel like I'd chase my tail forever trying to get them dead nuts, but never actually get there.  But gluing and screwing a triangle onto a square?...I think I can handle that.

 

Yeah, sorry Pug, you clearly meant the "ramp" on the main body of the board when you said "ramp." :rolleyes:   I'm getting to be a geriatric...my brain shuts off around 8PM these days. 

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Nah, that's what your left hand is for.  The majority of the inertia will still be received as forward motion.

 

The other cool thing about a ramp like that is that it wears your blade evenly instead of only in one spot, so less sharpening.

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Shooting-Board-129.jpg;I want to make one like this. This type is used along the length of the bench instead of the depth

 

Yes, this!

 

 

As far as right angle boards go, I made a ramped board a while back and it is what I currently use (forgive terrible photo)

 

post-4431-0-81870700-1394025595_thumb.jp

 

Its nice and does ease the cut some, but I'm not sure I would make one again. In addition, to taking more time to make (though its still pretty quick and easy) it has the disadvantage of being hard to support that far end of long pieces.  With a non-ramped board, you can just support the far end with a bench hook of the same thickness as the board, but with the ramped board you would ideally make some type of support of the same slope (i haven't).  It's not typically a problem since for the most part pieces being shot aren't super long, but it has come up as a nuisance a couple times.  I don't think I'll bother with the ramp next time.

 

I've met Tico at an LN event and demoed his boards BTW. Super nice fella, very knowledgeable, and make a very very nice product.  I'm not remotely the right  "market" for his product, but it is a very nicely made piece of gear.

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The ideal shooting board for mitres is this one ...

 

Setting20Up20and20Using20a20Shooting20Bo

 

If you are experiencing difficulty reversing the plane, then add a side fence. Here it is with a strike block plane I built ...

 

A10c_zps9d2319e8.jpg

 

If you want a ramped plane, then copy the original (that Tico copied his first version from). I began building these some years before he did. Mine were evolved from the shooting boards designed by Michael Connor.

 

LVShootingPlane_html_7190d3b2.jpg

 

This has an (micro) adjustable mitre fence ...

 

LVShootingPlane_html_1e3465d.jpg

 

Note that a plane with a skewed blade is best on a flat shooting board, while a ramped board works best with a plane with a square blade.

 

LVShootingPlane_html_1ce5d90f.jpg

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

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