Jointer Planes?


RJsumthn

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Sounds similar to my setup. I have a stanley jack that is set for rough work, and my LA LN is for finer work. I like my low angle jointer for my work due to it's size and flexibility. It is #7 size.

If you want the #8 just because it's bigger and basically the same price you'll be happy. Even though you probably don't need it's size.

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This is in line with a question I was going to post separately:  

 

So the point is to replace the cast iron power jointer correct?  I'd just read a tidbit about using a 3 1/4" electric hand planer in this month's FWW at the newsstand.  I guess this is just the power version of the hand plane.  I'd just rather use a hand plane.  

 

So why have a big power jointer if you aren't limited by time (pro)?  Are hand planes suitable for milling rough lumber and is the quality just as good? Putting the extra money saved by not buying a jointer, into a big planer is intriguing but it seems like everyone here has the big power jointer.  Even those in this thread.    

 

Hard work and extra time don't bother me but a difference in the quality between the 2 methods does.

Also what is the learning curve on using them.

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So why have a big power jointer if you aren't limited by time (pro)?

Are hand planes suitable for milling rough lumber and is the quality just as good?

Both have their own learning curve. The quality can be the same on both, and possibly even better with hand planes. More sweat for the hand planes. :)

Another important point is to effectively use hand planes you must have a proper workbench. Meaning it must be flat. The design is up to you, but it must be flat, stable and capable of holding work to work on the face and edges of the board.

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So the point is to replace the cast iron power jointer correct? I'd just read a tidbit about using a 3 1/4" electric hand planer in this month's FWW at the newsstand. I guess this is just the power version of the hand plane. I'd just rather use a hand plane.

I have used both. I would not put a powered hand planer in the same class as a hand plane. I spent quite a lot of time with a powered plane of this type while framing and siding. I never really saw finished surfaces. Maybe some guys get better results but they certainly strike me as an agressive rough use tool.

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I have used both. I would not put a powered hand planer in the same class as a hand plane. I spent quite a lot of time with a powered plane of this type while framing and siding. I never really saw finished surfaces. Maybe some guys get better results but they certainly strike me as an agressive rough use tool.

C,

I couldn't even find a reliable model when I first learned of them.  

It was enough to get me interested in the hand planes though.    

 

As long as it isn't too much of an art I won't be concerned.  

But with so many different tutorials it makes me think it is an art.

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Depending on your aspirations regarding how much stuff you want to make milling rough stock for entire projects is unrealistic. If you just want to make a few bit's here and there you can hand tool it to the max. If you want to make quite few items power is your only route. That means a jointer and a planer or paying someone with a jointer and a planer to prep your stock is the only sensible way to go.

 

Perhaps if you had 20hrs or more a week to hobby woodwork you could perhaps handtool it if you wanted, I can't think of anything more boring. Preping stock by hand is a very worthwhile skill, especially when you have wide boards, I would personally say more realistic than a router contraption.

 

Hand held power planes can be used as roughing tools, not that much benefit if any over a properly set jack.

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Hmm...thanks GS, I think that answers my question.  

I guess hand planing everything would be the most consuming part of any project, making it a very mundane hobby.

 

Don't know how the old guys did it back in the day...I guess when you have no choice...

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