wtnhighlander Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 I find that using the strop eliminates a lot of re-honing. I hit my tools with a stone maybe once or twice a year, but strop fairly often. It keeps the edge highly polished, so unless I nick something, stoning just isn't needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 ==>strop eliminates a lot of re-honing Stropping single bevel edges is not best practice... Here's something just as fast and will leave a better edge.... Diamond lapping paste on scrap MDF: http://www.knifecenter.com/item/DMTDPK/DMT-DPK-Dia-Paste-Diamond-Compound-Kit-of-1-3-and-6-Micron From dull edge to re-honed in under 2 mins: Get some scrap MDF from pile, squirt a small line of paste, lap for 30 seconds, toss MDF, back to work… I happened to list DMT's product -- but you can get lapping paste for quite a bit less... I think my last supply came from McMaster-Carr... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 hmm... didn't mean to start a fight I was just curious, I do have what I need for it so I may just try it anyway and see for myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasher Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 I find that using the strop eliminates a lot of re-honing. I hit my tools with a stone maybe once or twice a year, but strop fairly often. It keeps the edge highly polished, so unless I nick something, stoning just isn't needed. I see what hhh had to say about diamond lapping paste but I also work with leather and have plenty to spare and jewelers rouge at my disposal... I've seen may debates as to which side of the leather to use... smooth-skin side or the rough-back side. Can you share what you have found works best? I'm leaning towards the smooth skin side, that seems to make the most sense. This thread has been a great read. Thanks to all that contributed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 The best is finest Corinthian leather from Chrysler Cordobas* *jk, don't strop myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasher Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 LOL. Glad you added the footnote. I would've started googling otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 ==>strop eliminates a lot of re-honing Stropping single bevel edges is not best practice... Here's something just as fast and will leave a better edge.... Diamond lapping paste on scrap MDF: http://www.knifecenter.com/item/DMTDPK/DMT-DPK-Dia-Paste-Diamond-Compound-Kit-of-1-3-and-6-Micron From dull edge to re-honed in under 2 mins: Get some scrap MDF from pile, squirt a small line of paste, lap for 30 seconds, toss MDF, back to work… I happened to list DMT's product -- but you can get lapping paste for quite a bit less... I think my last supply came from McMaster-Carr... Consider that hair thoroughly split. Are you really nay-saying the practice of stropping or merely updating the practice with modern material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 stb,When I was using the Norton stones, and that same plate with sandpaper to flatten them, I kept tryingcoarser grits. 220 will work, but it will be really slow. I got to 80 and stopped there because it wasreally fast, and if anything, itmade the stones cut faster. Even the 8000 still cuts just fine after flattening with 80 grit. When youfirst flatten anew Norton, you will probably see that it's notflat to the corners. I wouldn't worry about going all the way to the corners until you get there on thenext flattenings.I've never stropped an edge. With the fine stones, you really don't need to. It only takes a few strokes on them anyway. I don't know about longevity one way or the other. The only gauge I can really remember was one day inlaying pieces into a White Oak floor all day. I remember I rehoned the one chisel I wasusing three times that day on the 8,000 stone. My back was a lot worse off that day than the chisel, atthe end of the day.The plumbing tools are next to the sharpening sink, so I grab the trigger igniting propane torch to drywhatever just got sharpened.Anyone have any ideas about the weird formatting, and text not wrapping issues I'm having?Tools for Working Wood selling stopping stuff if anyone feels the need. I never have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 the way I see it, stropping can't be terribly bad as paul sellers makes lovely shavings with restored planes all the time, and he seems to swear by it... TK, thanks for the tip I will definitely look to coarser stuff if the 220 doesn't work but from what I can tell the norton 4k is pretty flat now, so is the 1200 for that matter. maybe I lucked into a good one . Today turned out kinda crazy so I didn't get into the shop to do much more than clean up some (long story, if you read my fire thread you might know - spent a few hours cleaning up stuff that is drying in my garage rather than woodworking). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 ==>Consider that hair thoroughly split. Not really... Big diference between stropping on leather and lapping paste on MDF... One is great for a quick touch-up on single bevel tools and the other will likely do more harm than good... ==>Are you really nay-saying the practice of stropping or merely updating the practice with modern material? Covered sharpening workflow in some detail, but can’t search for topics prior to Dec’13, so the details covering stropping are out there in luminiferous aether... 30K flyover--- For the vast majority, stropping a single bevel edge probably does more harm than good. If you want to give it a try, have at it... Cost of entry is very low... If you’re maintaining double-bevel tools, then stropping is probably a push… If you maintain profiled edged tools, stropping can help manage the wire edge… For the hobbyist that sharpens occasionally, lapping paste on MDF is decidedly safer – little risk of overworking the steel and/or rounding the edge and/or corners… ==>Tools for Working Wood selling stopping stuff if anyone feels the need I've got their stropping gear --- it's good stuff... Use it all the time......on my double-bevel carving gouges... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 I see what hhh had to say about diamond lapping paste but I also work with leather and have plenty to spare and jewelers rouge at my disposal... I've seen may debates as to which side of the leather to use... smooth-skin side or the rough-back side. Can you share what you have found works best? I'm leaning towards the smooth skin side, that seems to make the most sense. This thread has been a great read. Thanks to all that contributed! I use the smooth side. Some folks use compound on a slab of MDF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 More than stones etc, I'd say take a look at The Perfect Edge book by Ron Hock. Thanks for the recommendation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Naniwa-Professional-Stone-New-Chosera-P552.aspx I would go with the naniwa chosera line. Some of the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 The only way I've seen to even come close to beating TfJ prices on the high end stones, is to have a friend that's going through Osaka anyway. TfJ prices look to be 20 to 25% cheaper than anywhere else I've seen. There is no "best' for every user. There is always some compromise on hardness, feel, quickness of cut, and price. This includes the full range, from oil stones, to diamond. The best waterstones for me cut almost as fast as diamond, still have some feedback, but don't have to be flattened every time you use one, and don't cost double what one that is very close costs. To quote a friend, good enough is good enough, but better is better. I'll add, once you have better in your hands, the bar for good enough is raised to better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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