Ricoswoodworking Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Was hoping someone had some insight on the best way to router in a drip ring on an end grain cutting board? Tear out issues, templates etc. I've been building these woodwhisperer type boards for a while and was recently asked to do one with a juice catcher, drip ring.. Thanks Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Fold towel, place under cutting board. Done. haha, I really have no idea, endgrain can be a nightmare. But I'm just a lowly noob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 I would make a template and ride a guide bushing around it then round over the sharp sides with sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcarswell Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Brendon_t 's idea works perfectly for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 You may want to make 3 or more passes to get the correct depth as those burn marks are tough to get out with a piece of sandpaper and index finger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 I'd score the outline first as if I was routing for an inlay. Then I'd use very light passes with a very sharp, clean bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 How deep are we really talking about here? The deepest I would think a juice trough would go is 1/8", maybe a quarter Inch. I don't know about you but I would not use multiple passes. Getting a straight sided router bit to track perfectly in its own channel and not deviate at all causing wonky lines, even with a bushing is not that easy. I don't even think that cut would generate a bunch of heat and burn badly unless you just going way too slow. Clean sharp bit, yes. My $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 If you have a router table, setup 2 stop blocks and plunge into the board and move it to the other stop block, rotate the board 180 degrees and do the other side. Then reposition the stop blocks for the shorter edges. Pro-Tip, take a piece of scrap and test it first to make sure your stop blocks are positioned right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 If you have a router table, setup 2 stop blocks and plunge into the board and move it to the other stop block, rotate the board 180 degrees and do the other side. Then reposition the stop blocks for the shorter edges. Pro-Tip, take a piece of scrap and test it first to make sure your stop blocks are positioned right. Or that. for some reason, I concocted in my mind hand router. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I used T Cancelleri's method on the last one I made, works perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I would use a round nosed bit or a dishing bit that has a flat bottom and rounded corners. Take light cuts and don't stop or slow down too much, just keep moving at a even speed. The last pass should be very light and will clean up any burns. Then you sand, and sand...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I always just used a router guide with a straight bit. Typically 1/2" to 3/4" wide and 1/4-1/2" deep. Then, round over the edges. Its something I loathe doing. It is so easy to screw up 1/64" and the whole thing to look like crap. The burn marks are impossible to sand away. I haven't experienced tear out before. Just charge your client another $20 for the groove and hopefully scare them off, or just tell them to rest their meat properly and they wont need the dang groove! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 just tell them to rest their meat properly and they wont need the dang groove! Are we not doing phrasing any more? Adult cartoon for $50?? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I wouldn't route and sand a juice groove for a penny less than $75. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I wouldn't route and sand a juice groove for a penny less than $75, like a boss! Fixed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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