Bathroom vanity


Tom Cancelleri

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BFB update... Toekick installed, got a nice ply splinter in my finger. This helped straighten out the floor, it's just about square now. Once the drawer box is built and installed everything should square up nicely. 05ba80bb6491601d5938931f1a12cf06.jpg Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

What is BFB? Why did you install the toe kick before installing the vanity?
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What is BFB? Why did you install the toe kick before installing the vanity?

Because it supports the floor in the front, and I needed the extra support to pull the bow out of the floor before I install the drawer box. The floor it is being installed on is nice and flat, and level. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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All that wet is glue? Did you apply the glue with an hvlp?? Or is it that you hate this vanity so much you are drinking yourself silly everynight and that wet spot is a glass of JD you spilled? Be open with us Tom, we are here to help. Sent from my SM-P550 using Tapatalk

The wet is where I wiped the glue squeeze out. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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Your still working on the case? Figured you would be knee deep into the doors by now<grin>

Spent 2 weeks pre finishing the visible panels. First coat of ARS took 3 days to dry, being that i had so many panels i had to do it in 2 separate batches, essentially a week each. The non visible areas will get brushed with waterbourne poly once it's all assembled. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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Adding a 3 or 4" wide x 3/4 strip across the front and back of the sink openings will stiffen up the case. dominos, kregs whatever.   When they install the sinks and top they can cut deeply into the strips without affecting the strength.

Fairly big triangles in all 8 corners will work too. Installing a frameless cabinet it needs to be plumb and level to.keep it square. Shimming if the wall is out can put stress on the squareness of the openings. Strips or corner triangles stiffen the large openings in the top. Quick and plenty of glue will do the trick.

Scrap ply or solid wood, even softwood will work

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Frameless does have a learning curve, but after 20 years or so its second nature to me. It's actually easier with melamine , particle board etc than ply. But that stuff doesn't last anywhere near water and just doesn't stand the test of time .

Those pieces in the front are not yet attached. Before I attached them I actually wanted to make the front pieces into L shapes for added strength. After talking with the person who would be installing it yesterday he said "Leave the top open for the sinks, no need for any pieces on the top, when I mentioned what I had left to do on the case.

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