Bathroom vanity


Tom Cancelleri

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No more plywood cases, or cabinets this large. It's such a pain to move around, plywood is cumbersome and unwieldy to work with. Joinery is no fun with ply, worrying about sanding through our chipping the very thin veneer. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

Tom normally vanites and kitchen cabinets are built in smaller modular sections and screwed together in place. Maybe a better route next time. It will help with all the issues you are having.
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Up and at em! Sanded coat two lightly with some 400 grit.. (Preppin Weapon is awesome!) Wiped on coat number 3 for the side panels. Here's a question for you finishing people. Rather than do ARS for the outside of the cabinet, since it will be against a wall on all the outer parts of the cabinet with the exception of the front, would it be more cost effective to just throw a coat of minwax or some other cheap poly on the outside of the cabinet for protection against moisture, rather than doing any coats of ARS? I'd definitely prefer not to do the same finishing as the inside with multiple coats, and sanding. I'm finally realizing the stuff that is never seen doesn't need all the finish work as the visible parts. 

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Cheap poly or even shellac would be good for the outside against the walls. Shellac is a good moisture barrier but doesn't give the protection of poly. 

Is the vanity going to be enclosed? If so you might run into odor problems using an oil based finish inside it. Let it cure good and keep air moving through it until you install  and close it up. 

I learned my lesson the hard way and now have a simple rule - no oil inside enclosed spaces. 

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Prefinishing inside panels makes things easier. One less thing to worry about at the end. Once the glue is dry I will put the floor in, make sure it's flushed up and everything is square. Then the dividers get installed. Yay for relative dimensioning. 

 

Got some Bessey clamp extenders since I don't have clamps long enough to clamp 77" I drilled out my holes on the jet clamps to 15/32" (NOTE: DO THIS ON A DRILL PRESS) or this happens

IMAG4257.jpg

Dad the old machinist cut and reground the bit

IMAG4261.jpg

 

IMAG4264.jpg

1 31" and 1 40" Jet clamp connected using Bessey extenders.

IMAG4265.jpg

 

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You can use your hand drill but you have to start with a small drill bit and then step up gradually... and keep the bit oiled. Or you can just get a step drill bit, makes drilling on steel a lot easier.

I did take the stepped bit approach, went up in 1/32" the bit caught and the drill twisted my hand, I tried to back the bit out and it snapped. 

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I broke a nice bit about six month back and went out and replaced it.  I never thought of asking my machinist son in law to fix it.  See the things you can learn from this forum are endless.

Chet, he cut the bit square with an angle grinder, dipping it in water to cool it so the steel didn't get soft. Then he ground a new tip on the bench grinder. No special tools needed. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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Those plastic feet on the extender go towards the piece being clamped.

When drilling stuff like that on the drill press clamp the bar down to the table before drilling. I tried to hold  a part by hand, the bit caught and pulled the part out of my hand violently. When it slammed into the column the shaft of the drill press bent !

Anyone need a 1940's Craftsman drill press with a bent shaft and no motor ?

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Cheap poly or even shellac would be good for the outside against the walls. Shellac is a good moisture barrier but doesn't give the protection of poly. 

Is the vanity going to be enclosed? If so you might run into odor problems using an oil based finish inside it. Let it cure good and keep air moving through it until you install  and close it up. 

I learned my lesson the hard way and now have a simple rule - no oil inside enclosed spaces. 

Yup.  The chest of drawers I made for my son that I finished in April with ARS is still unusable because the inside stinks so bad.  Can't even put his clothes in it.  After I finish my current project I'll be recoating the entire inside of the COD with shellac.  Lesson learned.

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Those plastic feet on the extender go towards the piece being clamped.

When drilling stuff like that on the drill press clamp the bar down to the table before drilling. I tried to hold  a part by hand, the bit caught and pulled the part out of my hand violently. When it slammed into the column the shaft of the drill press bent !

Anyone need a 1940's Craftsman drill press with a bent shaft and no motor ?

I clamped the bar to the table and I put the head of the clamp against my rolling tool cabinet so it couldn't get any momentum. My dad said in the machine shop they used to brace the piece up against the post of the drill press, after clamping it down so if you got a catch it wouldn't spin the piece. I did have the bit catch in the piece while in the press, the motor just spin on the belt and that big red stop paddle at the top made for a quick shut off of power. 

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Yup.  The chest of drawers I made for my son that I finished in April with ARS is still unusable because the inside stinks so bad.  Can't even put his clothes in it.  After I finish my current project I'll be recoating the entire inside of the COD with shellac.  Lesson learned.

Let us know how the shellac works. My project was small with Danish oil as the finish and using shellac later didn't help much with the smell. It could have been because of contents had the oil smell embedded in them so I couldn't really tell if the shellac helped. 

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BOOM! Fit the floor today. It's taking a fair amount of coaxing to get that plywood at the back to be straight. There's a bow in it because it's such a long panel. Clamps on each side with the floor in, fits like a glove and squares up nicely at the bottom. The top panels and dividers will prove to be a challenge to get them installed any square.

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BOOM! Fit the floor today. It's taking a fair amount of coaxing to get that plywood at the back to be straight. There's a bow in it because it's such a long panel. Clamps on each side with the floor in, fits like a glove and squares up nicely at the bottom. The top panels and dividers will prove to be a challenge to get them installed any square.

Come on dude, no pic?  :)

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Looking good Tom.  The pocket screws were definitely the way to go.  Brutal working with such big parts.

Definitely the way to go. The ply bow was a challenge and a half to counter. The floor is about 3/64" proud of the right side front. Another reason I like face frames more than Euro style cabinet. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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Those plastic feet on the extender go towards the piece being clamped.

When drilling stuff like that on the drill press clamp the bar down to the table before drilling. I tried to hold  a part by hand, the bit caught and pulled the part out of my hand violently. When it slammed into the column the shaft of the drill press bent !

Anyone need a 1940's Craftsman drill press with a bent shaft and no motor ?

If you fish, it makes a nice anchor!

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