Sharpening a router plane


Immortan D

Recommended Posts

==>One perspective. 

Based on the reference to FWW and the date of the thread ('08), I suspect the thread is referencing HV's article... He's (along with the rest of the FWW crew) a strong advocates of hollow ground primary bevels... But the thread takes HV's prospective a bit further than he intended -- sort of like folks using the ruler trick on BU irons... Also, the folks who advocate hollow-ground primary bevels may or may not advocate secondary bevels, or if they do, then many advocate that they should be established on a stone (this happens to be my practice).

I've posted my thoughts on hollow-grinding several times here and on LJ, so I won't repeat them... I hollow grind most of my edges, but not all... There are places where it is clearly not appropriate -- and I believe HV covers those cases in his original article... The issue frequently glossed-over is that all hollow-grinds are not the same ---- the size of the hollow makes a big difference -- HV (and the FWW staff) are assuming 8"-10" wheels (read as Tormek). Once you get to a steeper hollow, edge breakdown becomes more of an issue and it's utility diminishes... Species, edge size, metallurgy, and intended use also come into play -- again, I believe HV covers those cases... A big D2 mortise chisel whacked into Hard Maple is a different animal than an 1/8" O1 dovetail paring chisel pushed into Mahogany.

 

If you want way more on this than you'd ever need to know, check-out Ron Hock's Sharpening Blog...

https://hocktools.wordpress.com/

There, you'll discover the 'why'...

 

Edited by hhh
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might get beat up for this by the sharpening zealots...but I think everything in here is over-complicating a fairly simple task.  Like Tom, I just freehand mine.  I don't use the ruler trick to flatten the bottom...it's such a small amount of metal that it takes no time at all.  Then I hone the bevel freehand too.  I don't go back and forth...just back, at a diagonal.  And I don't create a secondary bevel so the risk of rounding over the edge is minimal.

All these jigs and hollow grinds and complications...eh, not for me.  My blades are plenty sharp without them.  I do the same for my marking knives...a couple careful, steady swipes and you're back in business.  Chisels and plane blades, different story.  I jig up for those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

==>easy to keep it that way

Ahhhh, the crux of the issue...

 

It's easy for those with experience, muscle memory and rapidity...

 

Then there are the rest of us who view sharpening on the same plane as a trip to the dentist.... I don't have the muscle memory to sharpen effectively free hand. I can do it... I can sometimes do it well... If I'm in a hurry, I'll touch-up free hand... But a jig is my go-to... Sort of like training wheels... :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One advantage of hollow grind is you do less work fine honing, because the grinding removes extra stock in the middle. Then you only have to wear away the very edge and back lip of the bevel on your slower cutting fine grit abrasive devices of choice, rather than the entire surface of the bevel.

Very well stated!

A hollow grind is self-jigging if you want to freehand sharpen, that is, the two sides of the hollow act as a jig to balance the bevel. It minimises the likelihood of rocking the bevel face and honing out-of-square. Whether freehand- or guide sharpening, it reduces the amount of steel to remove, which means faster sharpening.

This hollow ground chisel required just a few strokes on stones to hone, and it will likewise require a few strokes to re-hone. This makes sharpening - and re-sharpening - a very easy and quick process (under 60 seconds) ...

3-Ultra-Fine-Spydercoa_zpsee6e86ce.jpg

6-Paringa_zps031ff8b9.jpg

The importance of the hollow grind is one reason I spent time perfecting this on plane blades as well on the router plane blade.  The earlier link provides information on the router plane. The following link was mentioned in a previous discussion on sharpening (this is provided as an illustration of where I am at, but not as a recommendation of what others should do): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I built a jig and also used the ruler to clean the flat side: 

The Armstrong holder worked out very well, a few pics:

2015-09-16_19.09.51.thumb.jpg.febfce7436

2015-09-16_19.10.54.thumb.jpg.43686f5c7d

I used a piece of wood for support, to help holding the angle. That part needs some improvement if I'm going to do this often.

 

Whoa whoa whoa...actual woodworking?   I didn't know that was allowed around here...thought we were just supposed to bounce around between discussions about how to sharpen and which table saw to buy?

LOL that was a test piece not actual woodworking

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 35 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    421.8k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,759
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    R Parekh
    Newest Member
    R Parekh
    Joined