Immortan D Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Needed a small router plane, my LN being too big for the task, so I got one of those generic small router planes, a Shop Fox precisely. Not too shabby I must say, flat and square, but the blade needs sharpening.Found this video from Christopher Schwarz, which proposes using a steel ruler for the entire task:How do you guys sharpen this particular blade? I don't think the Shop Fox blade has room for errors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Daniel, Thanks for the video. I haven't had mine long enough to sharpen it (probably should have sharpened it as soon as it came out of the box), and I was wondering how I was going to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 You're welcome, Coop! Not sure if it's the best practice though, I mean using a rule to put a bevel on the bottom of the blade, it's not going to be flat after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) The ruler trick is pretty slick, but overused... I don't use the ruler trick on joinery planes, BU planes, et al...For a router plane iron, this is pretty close to the method I use:The only trick is finding something to hold the iron at the desired bevel angle. I use a small drill press vice - similar to that in the video, but simpler in design...I also use a primary and secondary bevel only... Some find a tertiary bevel saves them time in the long run, I don't... I find two setups is about all I can stand... The extra 10 strokes it takes for a larger secondary offsets the setup required by a third angle... Edited September 15, 2015 by hhh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Thanks Trip, that looks more convincing than the ruler method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted September 16, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 With a simple jig you can create a hollow grind on the router plane blades, and this is MUCH easier to hone to a sharp edge and, importantly, to keep sharp.There is a complete write up, plus more info, on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/SharpeningRouterPlaneBlades.htmlRegards from PerthDerek 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I probably won't change my method of honing router plane irons, but I do like the inventiveness... The method sparks new ideas and encourages out-of-the-box thinking... Thanks.. PS. And keep it up. I love new ways of looking at sharpening... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I probably won't change my method of honing router plane irons, but I do like the inventiveness... The method sparks new ideas and encourages out-of-the-box thinking... Thanks.. PS. And keep it up. I love new ways of looking at sharpening...Remember that you wrote, "The only trick is finding something to hold the iron at the desired bevel angle ..."Well, add your sharpening method to honing on the hollow - which is another jig "to keep the iron at the desired angle".Regards from PerthDerek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) I must admit that I didn't build a jig like the video... I've got a selection of small purpose-made tool maker's drill press vices for my other hobby activities... I just use a small one to hold the iron at a bevel and hone away... I do use a hollow-grind on most of my other edges, so I'll give your jig a whirl -- or turn the vice on it's side and use it for what's intended --- at the drill press Actually, where the vice method comes in handy are the small router plane irons and inlay irons -- they are just too small for my fingers to get a good grip -- and I really don't like holding them with vice-grips -- small tool maker's vices come in handy... Edited September 16, 2015 by hhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I like your method Derek and will be making a jig to do my Stanley router blades. Thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I think i can use my Armstrong chisel holder to hold the small blade. Will try that tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 The Armstrong holder worked out very well, a few pics:I used a piece of wood for support, to help holding the angle. That part needs some improvement if I'm going to do this often.I also made a few passes with the ruler, built a tiny secondary bevel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I sharpen mine by hand on the edges of waterstones. I don't like to put little cutters to one side of the face of a stone, so I flatten edges for it. I do the whole bevel, since there is little area there anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I sharpen mine by hand on the edges of waterstones. I don't like to put little cutters to one side of the face of a stone, so I flatten edges for it. I do the whole bevel, since there is little area there anyway.Sounds good. I do not have any waterstones though, only diamond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Daniel, have you calculated the angle of the backbevel you have added with the ruler trick? With a short blade, you could be adding about 20 degrees to the cutting angle. Tom, the risk of honing a flat bevel this size is that you round it over. The advantage of a hollow grind is that you ensure the angle is what it is.Regards from PerthDerek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Derek, I used the ruler to put a tiny bevel on the other side of the blade, like in the first video. Only a few passes with +-8000 grit (extra extra fine diamond stone), it is hardly visible. So it's not really a secondary bevel, I used the wrong word there. More a deburring operation than anything else. Edited September 17, 2015 by Daniel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) I haven't had any problem rounding over a flat bevel. I can see where it would be a problem going forward and back, but side to side gives plenty good enough feel to keep the bevel flat on the stone. One finger on my left hand holds it down, and the right hand provides most of the back and forth motion. With a fast cutting stone, it doesn't take many swipes anyway. You can feel that the bevel stays flat on the stone. I don't get good feedback feel with diamond stones, whereas waterstones or even oilstones suit me a lot better for feel.I do my sharpening with waterstones in a sink. One side has a surface plate for flattening the stones. I flatten the edges for little cutters, and the stone being used gets set up on edge in the bottom of one sink with a stream of water running on it. Works for me as good as anything. Edited September 17, 2015 by Tom King Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 If I can slip this in without anyone recognizing my ignorance, what is a hollow grind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Look at Derek's pic of his iron next to the spindle sander. Now picture the spindle creating a bevel that is convex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Thanks C. What is the purpose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 I don't notice a benefit in practice. I will defer to the big boys for the theory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 It just looks like you're wearing back perfectly good metal to accomplish what? When I get to the obvious and don't realize it, someone stop me ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?86038-FWW-article-always-hollow-grind-chisel-plane-blades One perspective. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 It just looks like you're wearing back perfectly good metal to accomplish what? When I get to the obvious and don't realize it, someone stop me ?In Derek's blog (follow the link in his post) he explains, pictures included, that once you established the hollow bevel, you can use it as a jig for honing: the bevel is your jig.It's an interesting method, not everyone has to agree though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 One advantage of hollow grind is you do less work fine honing, because the grinding removes extra stock in the middle. Then you only have to wear away the very edge and back lip of the bevel on your slower cutting fine grit abrasive devices of choice, rather than the entire surface of the bevel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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