Rex Edgar Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Mama gets what Mama wants....She has decided that we need a coat rack/hall tree. I have the base and supports figured out, what I need help with is the upright. I'm thinking 4x4 but I want to taper it as it rises, round the corners and some sort of a flourish at the top. In the photos the gingerbread trim at the bottom is only a simulation, the final ones will be from the same wood and somewhat thicker. For the upright, I'm thinking of four sides with some nice porcelain hooks. Maybe 6 feet tall, not sure how to safely taper the upright......Thanks in advance.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 You could draw on the taper you want and cut it on the bandsaw just staying shy of your line. Then if you are very patient you could make a custom sanding block (wider than the upright) and sand down to your lines. Or you could sneak up on your line at the jointer making very small passes. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Jig on the tablesaw can cut partway thru, rotate and cut again etc. Then follow the kerfs on the bandsaw. Carefully clean up with a plane or jointer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 55 minutes ago, wdwerker said: Jig on the tablesaw can cut partway thru, rotate and cut again etc. Then follow the kerfs on the bandsaw. Carefully clean up with a plane or jointer. That's a pretty good idea, just gotta make sure the stock is perfectly held to the fence both sides or you'll cut the center to reveal uneven "shoulders" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Jig on the tablesaw can cut partway thru, rotate and cut again etc. Then follow the kerfs on the bandsaw. Carefully clean up with a plane or jointer. That's a pretty good idea, just gotta make sure the stock is perfectly held to the fence both sides or you'll cut the center to reveal uneven "shoulders" The cut isnt going all the way through at the table saw in Steves method. Just the height of the blade. The rest is removed at the bandsaw following the kerf created at the bandsaw. Steve the only concern I'd have is by the time you are making the taper cut on the third side there would be an unstable reference against the tapering jig. Or am i not understanding correctly? Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Jig would have some blocks to hold the post at the taper of just one side. Because you are only ripping an angled kerf in the post no exterior pieces will be removed. You would want the taper to start above the braces at the bottom or those would need to be angled to fit, your choice but think about it. Hand plane or a belt sander might work to smooth out the bandsaw cuts. You could finish the tablesaw cuts with a quality sabersaw or a handsaw as well. With some careful planning you could make a jig that let you make the cuts with a circular saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 If you have a long bed jointer, make the taper by marking the shoulder, and starting the cut at the shoulder line, rather than the end. Take successive passes until you reach the desired taper. Since the face being cut always references the jointer bed, no other jiggery is needed. The only difficulty is handling the stock if it is a lot longer than the jointer beds. Of course, a handplane could do the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Instead of rounded edges, after tapering, what would a bead on all 8 edges look like? Not too good due to the rounded edges on the base? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Might look cool to transition into a 5 or 6 sided taper too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Hey Kev, I could see 4 side to 8, 12 or 16 sides but 4 to 5 or 6 would be some sort of weird transition don't ya think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 4 minutes ago, wdwerker said: Hey Kev, I could see 4 side to 8, 12 or 16 sides but 4 to 5 or 6 would be some sort of weird transition don't ya think? Yep.. But it might be cool Would definitely need some kind of twist the bottom to work it in.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Spiral flutes? Rex, do you happen to have a 7 foot lathe? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted April 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 31 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Spiral flutes? Rex, do you happen to have a 7 foot lathe? ? How would the hardware get mounted? Anyone have any visual references to some of the previous ideas? Difficulty in picturing some suggestions..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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