CNC router build


difalkner

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Got a little further today on the build but not by leaps and bounds... The proximity sensors weren't going to be in the right location so I drilled new holes, 31/64", and that was difficult in this stress relieved steel.  That is some hard stuff!  It took about half an hour to drill 3 holes and I had to sharpen the drill bit about 4 times.

Anyway, I decided to move the enclosure to the front of the machine instead of on the rear where I had initially planned to mount it.  I just couldn't get comfortable with it being on the opposite end of the machine.  Tomorrow I'll drill the holes in the stand and get it mounted though I'll have to take it back off to drill all the holes for cable entry.

052%20-%20Enclosure%20location%20finaliz

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31 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

That's a badass looking machine. I wanna see it running

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I'm kind of looking forward to it myself... LOL!  Ok, I can't wait to see it running!  The build is a blast, though, and fully supports the old adage that getting there is half the fun.

One of those times when it's really nice to have a floor model drill press!056%20-%20Nice%20to%20have%20a%20floor%2

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I'm kind of looking forward to it myself... LOL!  Ok, I can't wait to see it running!  The build is a blast, though, and fully supports the old adage that getting there is half the fun.

I'll agree that building a machine and getting it setup and tuned is a wonderful feeling when you first plug it in and get to yell "it's alive!"

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46 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

What's the z axis capacity?

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Sorry, missed this earlier.  It's suppose to be 10" but the actual travel measures out to just under 12".  Clearance under the lower end of the ball screw will be about 6 1/2" after installing two 3/4" boards for the table.  Discounting the end of the ball screw, then under the Z plate mount there's another 1/2" but I guess the technical distance would be 6 1/2" clearance.  Not too shabby...

I just remembered I took this photo early on when it was still on the pallet but you can see it's about 8" without the MDF boards in place.

006%20-%20Gantry%20clearance_zpsecf4g7ow

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18 hours ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

For a 3/4 axis machine that's rather good.

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I'm hoping that's the case.

I used a homemade 5/8" brad point drill bit to cut the holes for the 4 and 5 pin connectors and drilled a 3/8" hole to use the Greenlee chassis punch on the 1/2" conduit holes (7/8" dia.).  The friend who brought his engine lift over to lift this onto the stand has the Greenlee hydraulic kit and that's pretty nice.  For these small holes I just used my manual Greenlee although I have the ball bearing version so it's a piece of cake on this 16 gauge steel.  I have some larger holes to make for switches in the door and will probably use the hydraulic punch on those.

Greenlee hydraulic punch -
057%20-%20Greenlee%20hydraulic%20punch_z

Greenlee manual punch -
058%20-%20Greenlee%20manual%20punch_zpsy

All connectors set into place -
059%20-%20Connectors%20set%20in%20place_

More later - thanks for following and commenting!!
David

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Spent a little time on this Labor Day making a bracket and mounting a box for the main E-stop switch.  I don't have any metal working tools other than a drill press so I'm pleased with the results of this little foray into metal working.  This is a wet location single outlet box from Lowe's and since I had some Ferrari yellow I thought that would be a good color to paint the box.  Then I baked it in the oven for a while at 170° and let it set - seems pretty tough.  And I got suitably dressed down for smelling up the oven so I promised not to let it happen again (today)... :rolleyes:

At some point after I get the CNC up and running I'll make little aluminum spacers to replace the 6 washers I used to space the bracket out far enough so it doesn't hit the proximity sensor.  It's in close 'proximity' to the sensor but doesn't touch it... ;)

I'll have a second E-stop mounted in the same type box but the second one will be on a cable and free to move around.

Bracket back side slides over bolts that can be removed to put sand into the frame if I needed additional weight (like 500 pounds isn't heavy enough!!) or if I need to control resonance in the stepper motors -
060%20-%20E-stop%20bracket_zpsgil1bzgv.j

I mounted this high enough that I don't think I'll accidentally lean into it with my hips or bump it walking by and because it's square 1/16" wall tubing it is very stout, doesn't budge when I hit it -
061%20-%20E-stop%20switch%20bracket_zpsx

I'll bring the cable up from the open bottom of the tubing and into the box through this grommet to protect the cable from the aluminum edges.
062%20-%20E-stop%20box%20grommet_zpslmw3

Back side of the bracket and switch -
063%20-%20E-stop%20rear%20view_zpsq0dsnt

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Started wiring the control panel - FINALLY!!  I did a fair number of searches on proper wiring color code for the different voltages and flavors of electrical current on this panel - AC hot, AC switched hot, AC hot from another source, neutral, ground, DC, DC common, 120/240 single phase, three phase, etc. - and I'm here to tell you there are many, many different 'standards' depending on the type of panel, industry, environment, and lots of other variables.  So I did the best I could for code, meaning I kept searching until I found one that closely matched the wire colors I had on hand and then modified 'the code' to fit the exact colors I had on hand.  ;)

So yes, to those who may want to send me their version of 'proper', I am aware a small portion of what I've done may not be perfect so I can post the photos in B&W if that's better... LOL!

Somewhere under all this is a table saw that hasn't been used in a couple of weeks because it has become an electrical workbench -
064%20-%20Table%20saw%20electrical%20ben

Probably a little past half finished; ignore the temporary ties but I needed to keep some of these sort of grouped for running the other wires.  The AC hot wires are 14 AWG, the DC and control wires are 18 AWG, and the wire ends have been tinned where they go into the C25S board on the ESS -
065%20-%20Wiring%20in%20progress_zpsdppz

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After getting all the wiring completed for power on the panel it was time to test and see if all was good.  Obviously there is still a lot to do; still have to wire the stepper motors, proximity sensors, fans, etc. but at this point I needed to know that my latching circuit held the contactor closed and that all the power supplies were at the right voltage and that the stepper drivers and ESS powered up ok.

So rather than just tell you that it worked I videoed the first power up so if something blew either I or the investigators could go back and see what happened (really was the first, no 'pre-test' before the video).  Since the video I have adjusted all the power supplies to their correct voltage.

 

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4 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

I have quite enjoyed this build so far.  Maybe you'll be able to bust out some sweet Xmas gifts,  next year ?

Clearly you understand my timeline... :D

4 hours ago, FineLineAutomation said:

It's coming along quite nicely. I like the E-Stop mount.

Nate

Fine Line Automation

www.finelineautomation.com

Thanks, Nate!  That was actually a lot of fun to make and I can't believe how solid it is - really stout.

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3 hours ago, Pwk5017 said:

I've worked on woodworking machines top to bottom. I have built several computers. Still, I cannot imagine putting this thing together. I cant wait to see it under power. 

I graduated from Tinker Toys to building and racing go-karts then cars then motorcycles and everything in an around engines, machining, hydraulics, electronics, pneumatics and rebuilding everything I get my hands on.  So I told one of my grandkids this is a 'big boy toy'.  He can't wait to see my 'toy' running, he said!! 

I have to say that of all the things I've built and rebuilt through the years this has to be the most fun and greatest foray into unknown territory for me.  At least 25% of what I've done on this is brand new to me but every step has been enjoyable.

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