Absolute beginner apologies in advance


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2 hours ago, gee-dub said:

Remove the clamp so that the crack reopens.  Put glue or epoxy in the crack and re-clamp.  Run your screw in recessing the head below the chair's edge surface.

This is key. Use the clamp to bring the gap in, use the screw to keep it closed. Do not use the screw to close the gap without clamps. Also be sure to drill your pilot hole with the chair clamped.

Seriously great advice geeeeeeee-dubbbbbbbbbb! 

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11 hours ago, Gillian Cordiner said:

I'm in Australia sure there will be a version here thanks though I learn quick and my mind likes information !!

Wait, our newest member is both female and Australian.  How AUSsome is that!

 

3 hours ago, gee-dub said:

The long hole should be sized for your pan head or round head screw (not flat head). 

Great advise and clearly put (even I understood it).  But question, why not a flat head screw?

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38 minutes ago, Mark J said:

flat head screw

Flat head screws have a taper under the head that acts like a wedge which will split the material you're going into. You can use a flat head, but you have to countersink them.

If there is another reason, lemme know :) 

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8 hours ago, gee-dub said:

 

That is exactly it.  A pan head, round head or better yet a washer head screw gives you a flat bearing surface.  Even though the crack will be glued and clamped before the screw is seated, the clamp eventually comes off.  The screw is your mechanical helper left behind.  The torque that can be applied when someone settles back against the upright will be significant. 

The screw is running with the grain as opposed to against it so the possibility of a wedge causing a separation of the fibers leading to a new split is a real consideration.  A nice flat bearing surface will have better resistance to any movement that should try to come along down the road.  I'm hoping that lots of simple little steps lead to an overall successful repair.

This makes sense and honestly properly this is all new to me but I'm determined to save this chair if I can.. How long should the drilled hole be compared to the screw .. Don't laugh at my complete hopelessness ?

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6 minutes ago, Gillian Cordiner said:

This makes sense and honestly properly this is all new to me but I'm determined to save this chair if I can.. How long should the drilled hole be compared to the screw .. Don't laugh at my complete hopelessness ?

As deep as the screw is long.  Also, a little wax on the threads will help when you drive the screw.

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51 minutes ago, Gillian Cordiner said:

This makes sense and honestly properly this is all new to me but I'm determined to save this chair if I can.. How long should the drilled hole be compared to the screw .. Don't laugh at my complete hopelessness ?

Your determination way out weighs your hopelessness! I think this is doable (sp?) for Ya! 

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On 8/27/2016 at 10:43 PM, gee-dub said:

I got to a PC with SketchUp.  This is quick and rough but, may make my ramblings clearer.

chaircrack-4.JPG

chaircrack-5.JPG

brilliant i love an illustration makes it crystal clear\

On 8/27/2016 at 10:43 PM, gee-dub said:

I got to a PC with SketchUp.  This is quick and rough but, may make my ramblings clearer.

chaircrack-4.JPG

chaircrack-5.JPG

brilliant i love an illustration makes it crystal clear\

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On 8/27/2016 at 6:08 PM, Gillian Cordiner said:

This makes sense and honestly properly this is all new to me but I'm determined to save this chair if I can.. How long should the drilled hole be compared to the screw .. Don't laugh at my complete hopelessness ?

 

On 8/27/2016 at 6:15 PM, TIODS said:

As deep as the screw is long.  Also, a little wax on the threads will help when you drive the screw.

TIODS is right on with this.  In many cases we leave the hole shorter than the screw so that the last few threads bite into solid wood.  In your case you are screwing into side grain in a compromised area so a hole the full depth or even a bit more than the screw length is the ticket.  This is similar to the method used when putting screws into MDF to avoid splitting.  Good luck, your determination will keep you patient and focused.

 

P,s, Just in case we haven't mentioned it, don't "test sit" the chair for at least 24 hours after the last glue, clamp and screw application.

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Ok sorry for delay I've been plucking up courage to tackle my knarley chair so today I thought bugger it I'm doin it but as I inspected it it looked totally wobbly so I decided I'd take it apart I have an old leather Mallet I use for my silversmithing a few knocks in the right order bingo it's apart then I decided to split chair pan as it looked to be pinned together so I think I can replace a dowel and re glue should I still screw the other crack 

here are the photos that show my bold anarchy

IMG_0010.JPG

IMG_0012.JPG

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