Steven Codling Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Afternoon, If this is alright with the mods... Here is where I'll keep you all up-to-date on my shop build and the ideas I'm debating. As I stated in my intro message that i have claimed the garage as my shop space. the building is a detached 22' x 24' two car garage with 9ft ceilings and a modest attic space. it has its own power meter and the previous owner wired it using all 20 amp circuits. Im facing some lighting and wiring issues as i rehad the space. since i'm a tech guy professionally, Ill wire it for network as well as power and cable. I already have plans to add-on to the back of the building. in the mean time I'm looking at building a dedicated set to stairs to the attic space and a dedicated office for my computer/ drafting/ art interests. Right now the shop is not insulated or walled. so I'm looking at how to climate control the space and seal it up. Thanks for the support R/ Scuba attached is a pic of the portion of the lot that is my "sandbox" with the shop. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post shaneymack Posted November 7, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 I guess I will respond to the pictures you posted in the other thread. The space looks good, just really cluttered. Will you be taking alot of the non shop stuff out of there? Any plans /budget for some new tools/upgrades or this is strickly a shop upgrade? You jointer looks like it has seen better days! Lol. What about dust collection? Will you be setting up a ducted system? What are your plans for lighting? Lets get the discussion going ! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Codling Posted November 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 clutter is a nice way of putting it. and those images are of 1/2 the total space. yes the non shop stuff will be moving out. (most of it anyways.) there are two 12x12 sheds in the backyard that need some attention and will house the yard and kids stuff. there are a few items that are moving into the main house. also the attic space will need an actual floor. and then it will be storage for things like the camping gear and excess materials. a little background. my fathers best friend built the space 20+ years ago. when he sold me the house there was a lot of stuff (odds and ends from various side jobs we've done over the years) so i have had to sort through all of that as well as sort my stuff. since i used to do construction (specifically finish carpentry) ive a lost of leftovers from years of doing that. a few years back there was a FLEX factory nearby that has since closed down however through family connections i aquired a lot of their scratch and dent kits. many of the shop tools were acquired through family connections. the joiner is a little rough but mostly intact just need to be put back together and tuned. same with the bandsaw. one of the biggest projects is the Lath. referring to that pic of a tool sitting on a table by the door. Its a Craftsman Lath. I also inherited a Craftsman Radial Arm saw and Delta 10in table saw. I would like to upgrade them to newer models (but figure i need to get my content creation and hopefully some sponsorships to help offset the costs). In the mean time i thought it might make for some good videos going through restoring and tuning all those shop tools for fellow wood workers that are being budget friendly. Yes tool and shop upgrades. mostly all DIY since i have a fairly diverse background in many of the trades. and since my spouse and father both work as construction site superintendents. I have connections to a large pool of knowledge Lighting will be interesting I think I'm going to go with 4 lights in each bay. i've been pricing out T8 LED lights that i can mount and run to a set of switches. I also have 2 ceiling fans from the move that i was considering putting on on each bay. Dust collection is a big priority since i do electronics and woodcraft. I've been gutting by with the two shop vacs i have and have been looking into installing a cyclone and ducting. I set up an account on pinterest to scroll through ideas. I also have a stack of books that im rediscovering to help with storage and other build ideas. Yes,Scuba or Scuba steve is fine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 There has been some previous threads here discussing lighting that might be worth you searching out. Just use the google search at the top of the page, it's set up for this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Steve, did you mention what part of the world you are located in? That might help with the suggestions for HVAC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Codling Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Evening, just a quick update I got some cleanup done in the sheds and was able to get my camping gear out of the shop. The floor space is really needed. Now I can start planning my first tool restore project: the hand me down tablesaw. It hasn't been used in years and the cast iron top is a bit rusty. Any advice or tips for what to use or ideas how to film it is always welcome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 Evaporust is a popular rust removal product. For smaller parts, you would immerse them. For a saw top, maybe you can form a little dam around the edges (and plug any holes), then pour a thin film to sit on the surface overnight. I've seen people take an entire saw top and soak it in a large plastic tub of the stuff. Alternatively, you might just saturate some rags or towels with it, and lay them flat on the iron. Unless there is scaley rust or pitting, leaving the patina won't affect the function of the saw. Just get it smooth, and wax it thoroughly. The remaining stain of oxidation actually forms a protective barrier to further rusting. A shiny tabletop is only necessary to sooth one's OCD. (or CDO. Same thing, but the letters are in the right order.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 I owned that saw a few years back. good little saw. Search bar at the top right will give you more rust removal ideas than you can shake a stick at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Codling Posted December 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Did some work on the tablesaw. I pulled as many bolts I could to get an air hose in to lose up blow out all the dust. Found a couple spacers where the arbor connects to the cast iron top. Now to figure out how to restore the top And replace some washers And repair the cord Fun times restoring or reconditioning an old tool Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassAct Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 You could try a Big-Ass Electrolysis Bath(tm) for the top as a starting point. That's an easy, non-toxic way to cut through much of the rust and crud. Save yourself A LOT of elbow grease. I've used a bath on some old planes and it works a treat. You still need to go over the metal with a grey scrubber pad and some WD-40, but you'll have a much better idea of how much additional work the top needs. Fingers crossed it doesn't need to be re-milled. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 9 minutes ago, ClassAct said: You could try a Big-Ass Electrolysis Bath(tm) for the top as a starting point. That's an easy, non-toxic way to cut through much of the rust and crud. Save yourself A LOT of elbow grease. I've used a bath on some old planes and it works a treat. You still need to go over the metal with a grey scrubber pad and some WD-40, but you'll have a much better idea of how much additional work the top needs. Fingers crossed it doesn't need to be re-milled. I've done the same just using white vinegar and salt in a plastic tub for hand planes. The toughest part here will be getting a large enough tub to fit it. Maybe one of those squarish plastic tubs made for mixing concrete? might be big enough. Maybe a plastic kiddie swimming pool? The liquid only needs to cover an inch or so, to soak the table top when laid upside down. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassAct Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 Build one, maybe? 2x6 for the frame and vapor barrier as a lining? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 Put vinegar in a spray bottle, spread towel rags on the top, spray the top down,re-spray every hour or so. This will accomplish much the same in about six hours without needing a tub. A green scrub pad will remove most of the gunk with minimal effort and little dust. Just be sure to flood with water or address the acidity with salt or base on the top before walking away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Codling Posted December 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 I did a little bit. Light brushing with wire brush and a paper towel. I've got some conger left over from a hoist reconditioning I tried. So far the mechanics seem still good but won't know for sure till I retip the electrical wire. Turns out the original owner felt the cord was too short so he spliced another cord to it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You could try a Big-Ass Electrolysis Bath for the top as a starting point. That's an easy, non-toxic way to cut through much of the rust and crud. Save yourself A LOT of elbow grease. I've used a bath on some old planes and it works a treat. You still need to go over the metal with a grey scrubber pad and some WD-40, but you'll have a much better idea of how much additional work the top needs. Fingers crossed it doesn't need to be re-milled. I'm hoping I don't have to remill it. I honestly wouldn't know where to go if that had to be done. My fist thought would be to just retire it and go for a new powermatic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeset202 Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Steven, lots of products out there to fix up that table top. I used Boeshields rust remover (where rubber gloves) and one of those green course scrubbing pads. I would stay away from wire brushes, scraping, sanding etc and take the chemical route and nylon scrubbing pads. Once the rust is gone (oxidation stains will probably still be there) spray/coat with a sealant, again I used the Boeshield product and then hand rub some paste wax and buff out. I have seen worse tops than that get restored this way. Evaporust is very popular with folks on this forum and I believe it is less caustic than the Boeshield product. A new Powermatic would be nice too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattF Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 I'd go with Evapo-Rust option. I have been using it a lot lately restoring planes that my dad keeps sending me. Take some shop rags or paper towels and and lay them flat out on the table then saturate the hell out of them. Check periodically to ensure material is making contact with all surfaces. I had to use the same process on a Stanley no 8 due to the fact I didn't have a container long enough for it to lay flat in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Codling Posted December 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 I'd go with Evapo-Rust option. I have been using it a lot lately restoring planes that my dad keeps sending me. Take some shop rags or paper towels and and lay them flat out on the table then saturate the hell out of them. Check periodically to ensure material is making contact with all surfaces. I had to use the same process on a Stanley no 8 due to the fact I didn't have a container long enough for it to lay flat in. I picked some up at tractor supply company. I also ordered some wax for when I'm done cleaning the rust off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattF Posted December 8, 2016 Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 22 minutes ago, Steven Codling said: I picked some up at tractor supply company. I also ordered some wax for when I'm done cleaning the rust off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Not sure of the temp here you are, but the manufacture suggest using at a temp of 65F or higher. I found that out light night. Went to clean up another Stanley no 5 but just too damn cold in the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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