Here we go, first real project


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Finished, wifey happy!   Finished, wifey happy!  

Sorry it has been a while, yes the top is dominoed, glued and table bottom sanded with the top about 50% sanded.  Still need to epoxy the epoxy top and finish sanding.   Today I finished 3 coats

Been a while since I have given an update.  Lots of learning from struggles with epoxy.  Using West System #105 resin coupled with 207 hardener, and first batch would not cure.  After getting some ter

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Quick question, I have a 1 inch top thickness (solid Bolivian Walnut) and clear span of the unsupported table top of about 32 in. X 88 in.. Looking at the span it looks like a center support between the aprons would suffice.  Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks!

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I'm with Steve, what is the size of your aprons? From the pic, they don't look substantial. How are you attaching the aprons to the legs? Will there be stretchers between the end legs? Round overs or chamfers on the leg edges and bottom?

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11 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

I'm with Steve, what is the size of your aprons? From the pic, they don't look substantial. How are you attaching the aprons to the legs? Will there be stretchers between the end legs? Round overs or chamfers on the leg edges and bottom?

4in x 1in walnut.  Attaching the aprons to the legs with two dominos each connection. Routing the edges of the legs (rounded) slightly. 

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I would help stiffen things up but isn't nessacary. You should use "z" clips or furniture buttons to attach thet op to the aprons. A 33" wide solid wood top is going to expand and contract with the changes in humidity as much as 7/8". Finish the top separately and put a few coats of finish on the underside to slow changes in moisture. You can't stop it but a raw underside will make things move more. 

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Both of those work well. I tend to use Woodshopwidget because I have the app.

Sagulator is another handy calculator. How thick x depth x width of a shelf will sag under what load. You can add a lip to stiffen the shelf and calculate how tall and or thick it needs to be. You need to read all the instructions and play with it some to figure out how to achieve your goals. When I had a client who wanted several wide shelves for canned goods in a pantry I was caught between available height and a need to support the load. A  3" lip on each shelf meant fewer shelves. A 1 1/2"tall lip made from 8/4 maple was the solution. Sagulator can be used for things like a table apron too.

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2 hours ago, wdwerker said:

I would help stiffen things up but isn't nessacary. You should use "z" clips or furniture buttons to attach thet op to the aprons. A 33" wide solid wood top is going to expand and contract with the changes in humidity as much as 7/8". Finish the top separately and put a few coats of finish on the underside to slow changes in moisture. You can't stop it but a raw underside will make things move more. 

Going with Knape & Vogt figure 8 clips every 18" longitudinally.  Thanks for the finishing tips!

Steve

1 hour ago, wdwerker said:

Both of those work well. I tend to use Woodshopwidget because I have the app.

Sagulator is another handy calculator. How thick x depth x width of a shelf will sag under what load. You can add a lip to stiffen the shelf and calculate how tall and or thick it needs to be. You need to read all the instructions and play with it some to figure out how to achieve your goals. When I had a client who wanted several wide shelves for canned goods in a pantry I was caught between available height and a need to support the load. A  3" lip on each shelf meant fewer shelves. A 1 1/2"tall lip made from 8/4 maple was the solution. Sagulator can be used for things like a table apron too.

People on here are a wealth of great information!

Thanks!

Steve

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