sjm1580 Posted January 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 11 hours ago, Brendon_t said: Pull grenade, throw pin. Misfire free every time. Amen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sjm1580 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 All pieces for the table are cut and have tested acclimating to the humidity here. Ready for sanding and joinery. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 alright, lets rock this thing!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 It appears that most of the leg lamination used boards with varying degree of sap wood. Any plan to try to blend that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjm1580 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 43 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: It appears that most of the leg lamination used boards with varying degree of sap wood. Any plan to try to blend that? No, we mixed and matched and mixed and matched and like what we came up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjm1580 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Quick question, I have a 1 inch top thickness (solid Bolivian Walnut) and clear span of the unsupported table top of about 32 in. X 88 in.. Looking at the span it looks like a center support between the aprons would suffice. Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 A center cross piece between the aprons couldn't hurt. How tall and thick are the aprons ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjm1580 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 9 minutes ago, wdwerker said: A center cross piece between the aprons couldn't hurt. How tall and thick are the aprons ? 4 in. X 1 in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I'm with Steve, what is the size of your aprons? From the pic, they don't look substantial. How are you attaching the aprons to the legs? Will there be stretchers between the end legs? Round overs or chamfers on the leg edges and bottom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjm1580 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 11 minutes ago, K Cooper said: I'm with Steve, what is the size of your aprons? From the pic, they don't look substantial. How are you attaching the aprons to the legs? Will there be stretchers between the end legs? Round overs or chamfers on the leg edges and bottom? 4in x 1in walnut. Attaching the aprons to the legs with two dominos each connection. Routing the edges of the legs (rounded) slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 You are good for a 40 + lb per ft load. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjm1580 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 10 hours ago, wdwerker said: You are good for a 40 + lb per ft load. Steve, Do you think a cross center piece is necessary or just overkill? Thanks so much for you help. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I would help stiffen things up but isn't nessacary. You should use "z" clips or furniture buttons to attach thet op to the aprons. A 33" wide solid wood top is going to expand and contract with the changes in humidity as much as 7/8". Finish the top separately and put a few coats of finish on the underside to slow changes in moisture. You can't stop it but a raw underside will make things move more. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 8 minutes ago, wdwerker said: A 33" wide solid wood top is going to expand and contract with the changes in humidity as much as 7/8". hey steve, is there a formula or site that i can go to to figure wood movement by species? sorry for the mini hijack OP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 5 minutes ago, treeslayer said: hey steve, is there a formula or site that i can go to to figure wood movement by species? sorry for the mini hijack OP http://woodshopwidget.com/index.htm http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage I know of these two off the top of my head 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Both of those work well. I tend to use Woodshopwidget because I have the app. Sagulator is another handy calculator. How thick x depth x width of a shelf will sag under what load. You can add a lip to stiffen the shelf and calculate how tall and or thick it needs to be. You need to read all the instructions and play with it some to figure out how to achieve your goals. When I had a client who wanted several wide shelves for canned goods in a pantry I was caught between available height and a need to support the load. A 3" lip on each shelf meant fewer shelves. A 1 1/2"tall lip made from 8/4 maple was the solution. Sagulator can be used for things like a table apron too. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Didn't know about the Sagulator, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 ooooh this is going to look really good with finish on it! Keep up the good work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Looks good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjm1580 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 2 hours ago, wdwerker said: I would help stiffen things up but isn't nessacary. You should use "z" clips or furniture buttons to attach thet op to the aprons. A 33" wide solid wood top is going to expand and contract with the changes in humidity as much as 7/8". Finish the top separately and put a few coats of finish on the underside to slow changes in moisture. You can't stop it but a raw underside will make things move more. Going with Knape & Vogt figure 8 clips every 18" longitudinally. Thanks for the finishing tips! Steve 1 hour ago, wdwerker said: Both of those work well. I tend to use Woodshopwidget because I have the app. Sagulator is another handy calculator. How thick x depth x width of a shelf will sag under what load. You can add a lip to stiffen the shelf and calculate how tall and or thick it needs to be. You need to read all the instructions and play with it some to figure out how to achieve your goals. When I had a client who wanted several wide shelves for canned goods in a pantry I was caught between available height and a need to support the load. A 3" lip on each shelf meant fewer shelves. A 1 1/2"tall lip made from 8/4 maple was the solution. Sagulator can be used for things like a table apron too. People on here are a wealth of great information! Thanks! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 I used those those figure 8s on my dinner table build. They work great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjm1580 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 After finishing the joints on the aprons/legs, I dry fitted before starting on the cross and angle bracing. Also started the table top glue-up. No major hiccups so far! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Still gluing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sjm1580 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 21 minutes ago, bushwacked said: Still gluing? Sorry it has been a while, yes the top is dominoed, glued and table bottom sanded with the top about 50% sanded. Still need to epoxy the epoxy top and finish sanding. Today I finished 3 coats of Arm R Seal on the bottom of the table (picture attached). Side story, as I mentioned in another post. My neighbor stopped by the other day and noted I needed to finish cut the table ends and mentioned he had a Festool track saw and dropped it by. Later in the day he dropped by and said "you know I have been meaning to get a new one, you can just keep this one". Good day! I did do a lot of tractor work for the guy over the summer, but was not expecting it and a great surprise. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Damn! A festool track saw for free makes this an amazing project Gotta love stand up people 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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