Chris Spann Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 11 hours ago, Chestnut said: What's this dovetail plane look like? I suppose you'll see the dovetail on the face but the line along the case doesn't look terrible. Unless the picture just doesn't show enough detail. Here it is in all its frustrating glory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Well today I had more luck with the plane but made a dumb mistake with the saw again. I cut the recess dado too wide. The dovetail end looks better and the ears didn’t break off. Still not really happy but I’m learning a lot about this joint and using this plane. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Chris, the project is coming along nicely. I wouldnt get discouraged about those sliding dovetails. Some people have difficulty cutting them with machinery and you are doing them by hand ! Very impressive. Something i can say I will probably never try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 2 hours ago, shaneymack said: Chris, the project is coming along nicely. I wouldnt get discouraged about those sliding dovetails. Some people have difficulty cutting them with machinery and you are doing them by hand ! Very impressive. Something i can say I will probably never try. Thanks. I really love using hand tools but it can be very frustrating. I feel it’s like playing golf. That one good hit every round is what keeps you going back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 After I've started to mix in some hand tools I've found they aren't nearly as slow as i always thought they would be. There is a lot more technique to learn. Is there a reason you don't use a back board orsacrificial piece to help stop the tearout? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 1 hour ago, Chestnut said: After I've started to mix in some hand tools I've found they aren't nearly as slow as i always thought they would be. There is a lot more technique to learn. Is there a reason you don't use a back board orsacrificial piece to help stop the tearout? That's absolutely what I should have done and in the future I will. I actually thought about it when I was planing the second one but I wanted to see if I could do it. Stupid pride ha ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Just now, Chris Spann said: That's absolutely what I should have done and in the future I will. I actually thought about it when I was planing the second one but I wanted to see if I could do it. Stupid pride ha ha Na stupid pride would be doing this 10 more times before giving in. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Using a sacrificial board worked like a champ. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Ok fellas what do you guys think about attaching the back. I’ve got the bottom shelf in with a half dovetail dado. I plan on routing a 1/2” deep x 3/8 wide rabbet all the way around the inside for the shiplapped boards. Probably gonna be 3 wide boards. My thought is to glue the long outside edges to the sides and nail or screw the boards into the top, bottom, and middle shelf with elongated holes so they can move. What about the middle board? Just nail or screw it in the middle so it can move out both directions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 I don't think I like the idea of using glue on any of the boards on the back but the guys may feel different. Very nice work by the way Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Although that's probably ok I don't think I would glue them I would just nail them on leaving room for expansion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Very nice work. I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Thanks guys. I’m going to ponder on it some more while I wait for more shop time. I wanted to glue along the long grain in the back corners in the rabbet and leave the top, sides, and middle free to move. Got the idea from a Rob Cosman build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted February 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Got the back routed to accept the shiplapped boards. I have this routed at 3/8 wide and 1/2 deep. I think I'm going to widen it to 1/2 along the outside edge to have more room to screw or nail the boards. I was also able to get the adjustable shelf pin holes drilled but no pics of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 I am in the camp with Paul and Mat, if it were me I wouldn't use any glue, just some small screws. If you really feel the need for glue, maybe a couple of small dots of hot glue. Then if you had any unexpected stresses in the wood I think the hot glue would pop loose before the wood damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted February 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 I think I probably stated my intentions incorrectly. Glue along the long grain edge only should still allow for expansion across the board as long as I elongate the screw or nail holes. Am I missing something? No glue on the inside edges of the shiplap. Only along the case side. I tried to set this up so it would move to the front of the case. No glue in the slide doves either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 I don't see a problem with what you want to, from what I see. I was giving my personal opinion, which is all it was. I guess my thinking was that the glue is not necessary so I would forgo using it. nothing more then that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Shouldn't be a problem to glue the sliding dovetails . The side of the case and the shelf should expand & contract at the same rate. You could be safe and just glue the front 2" or so. I haven't glued any part of solid wood backs in 40 + years. Plywood on the other hand..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Spann Posted February 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 I think what I will do is just use screws at first and see how it is. I was copying a Rob Cosman idea about gluing the sides in order to make it more structurally sound. If the screws will prevent racking in that will Work great. I do really appreciate everybody’s help with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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