Coop Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 1 hour ago, ..Kev said: I think it really depends on the finish you're using. If you're using a film finish then, there's no real benefit in going over 180. Crap, I didn’t know that. And I just ordered some more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 I view 180 and 220 as about equivalent, and otherwise I go with Kev's statement. I start with whatever it takes to remove machine marks, etc. I've backed off on the ROS because it crosses the grain; more hand sanding. I don't have a drum sander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 I think where higher than 220 makes a difference is with very hard wood and an oil finish. Otherwise it seems like a waste of time & paper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 I will also note there is a difference in grit between the european system and NA system. The difference is amplified as you get over 500-800 grit, but i think Festool's 220 grit is just a bit above what NA 180 would be. Its probably between NA 180 and 220. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 I did this for family, and think it's worth noting. I did 5 coats of poly on a rough sawn board and sanded between each coat. The finish felt smooth after i was done but still looked rough. Some days i feel like 180 is too fine and 150 or even 120 could be a stopping point. I know when i used to stain oak I'd stop at 120 so the wood would absorb more stain. Part of me is so disappointed because i actually like how this looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyokahn Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 1 hour ago, Chestnut said: Part of me is so disappointed because i actually like how this looks. You're about to lose the woodworker card. Mine never arrived cause it thought of making a river table. Seriously though, you can't get away with 180 grit on very hard woods with oil finishes. Pine though, you can sand with 100 and it won't make too much of a difference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 18 minutes ago, kyokahn said: You're about to lose the woodworker card. Mine never arrived cause it thought of making a river table. Seriously though, you can't get away with 180 grit on very hard woods with oil finishes. Pine though, you can sand with 100 and it won't make too much of a difference. Yeah i have no interest in oil finishes. Poly finishes are the more durable finishes and i still think they damage too easily. I also love the look on people's face when i slap a sweaty glass down on my "nice handmade furniture". Also are you talking about wood type or wood hardness? Who ever thought it'd be a good idea to differentiate deciduous and coniferous trees by hard and soft wood is a jerk. :| Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyokahn Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 1 minute ago, Chestnut said: Who ever thought it'd be a good idea to differentiate deciduous and coniferous trees by hard and soft wood is a jerk. :| Absolutely agree. I meant hard wood, not hardwood so yeah, say anything over janka 2000lbs is unlikely to look nice with less than 200 grit, the scratches are just too visible, and I guess it doesn't help most of those woods are a darker shade. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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