Tablesaw extension with router insert- what material to use?


Oscar Yuan

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Hi all,

looking to to finally mount my Bosch router to my Jet tablesaw extension and get rid of my router table.

My question is what material(s) to make the table extension out of. A Kreg router insert is on its way. I have the malamine sheet (no wood behind it, just the skin) that I can glue on top. For the substrate I am thinking 3/4” MDF on top of some kind of 3/4” plywood: MDF for flatness and stability and plywood for structural strength.

am I on the right track? What kind of plywood should I use?

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Welcome Oscar. I made my top from 3 layers of 3/4" baltic birch ply with a layer of plastic laminate glued to each side. It's thick, heavy & I don't think it'll ever sag. I think it's important to put laminate on the bottom as well to keep it stable with seasonal humidity changes.

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I've made 2 out of particle board and 1 out of baltic birch ply. All three were 3/4" thick but i had bracing under neath similar to a torsion table. None of them sagged or appeared to move in any way. My current table is malimine particle board with 3" wide bracing under neath spaced 16". It's sturdy and hasn't sagged.

All of the above are good sugestions. I think people tend to worry about the sagging more than it is an acutaly issue but why take the change? MDF should do fine it's particle boards better bigger brother.

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Balanced construction is the best practice with any laminated panel. Always use an odd number of layers. If you use an even layer of glue 2 layers of MDF basically become one as it is fairly uniform stuff. But adding layers of differing materials always use the same stuff on both sides for balance. Plywood always has an odd number of layers.

For my large router table I added crosspieces around the router plate opening to carry the weight.  This is more important with larger surface area tables & heavy routers w lifts.

Check your ply, MDF or particleboard for flatness in every direction with a good straightedge before you cut it up. If it's been stored unsupported or leaning it could have a sag in it before you start. 

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So here's my 2 cents.  two pieces of MDF with a laminate top would be my choice.  Melamine, as someone said, is a type of surface you can get on particle board and MDF.  It does not come in sheets.  It's basically the very top surface of laminate.  Laminate readily comes in two thicknesses.  1/16" and 1/32".  1/32" laminate is referred to as vertical grade.  Either will be fine on a router table top, although the 1/16" is much stronger from a 'if you drop something heavy on the top' standpoint.

As for the balancing of laminate on the top and bottom surfaces.  Yes that's important if you are making a panel that has to stay straight on it's own, like a cabinet door for example.  For a table top, which will have bracing, or a counter top that is affixed to a cabinet it is not necessary. 

I would put 1 1/2" hard wood edge around the perimeter, gluing and clamping it to the underside of the MDF, then 1 1/2" hardwood stringers every 12-14" running the shortest distance (if your top isn't square).  Make sure the top is flat when you glue everything up.  It will be very stable.  Not having laminate or backer sheet on the bottom allows you to glue the edges and runners to the top.  Laminate the edges and shoot a coat of clear on the bottom if you like to seal everything up if you think it's necessary.

QHC

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