Matd Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 I just got the 12” glide delivered, and after setting it up, and doing a few test cuts, was not impressed with the straightness. It’s almost like the blade is deflecting during the cut. I’ve tried different woods and cutting speeds, with limited success in making the cuts completely straight. The saw is highly rated in reviews and used by a lot of woodworkers , so I assume it has to have potential. Has anyone experienced the same thing? Conquered it? I’m using the stock blade at the moment. Thanks Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 So as not to set yourself up, let's get grounded in the fact that even the very expensive miter saws are not super precision machines. They excel at angles and compound angles as you find in trim work like crown molding, baseboard and the like. Many folks use them with success in cabinetry. They are great for cutting two-by material to length and angle for house framing. The 12" versions will make longer crosscuts and cut thicker material like you may find in deck building. Blade upgrades are one of the more common ways to improve performance in any cutting machine and everyone seems to have their favorite. Material holding is another area that can improve your accuracy. Good material support is a key element in the use of many machines. Your satisfaction with the result will vary with your use. How are you planning on using the saw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 The owners manual has the method of adjusting the squareness of the cuts in it. A 5 cut method like on a table saw sled will tell you how close you are. Just keep putting the fresh cut edge to the fence. Measure each end of the last strip and that will tell you how much you are out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 There is some technique using saws like this. The head extends a long way from it's mounting point so you need to use care in putting sideways pressure on the handle as you cut. Also a blade upgrade may help I don't ever use the stock blade on any saw, the bottom dollar blade they get is good for cutting dirty material that may have metal in it but they are far from an accuracy blade. I also have to agree with Gee-dub, to an extent. I can use my 10" glide for precise work with a good blade and good technique. is my table saw with a miter gauge better. Yes, but i don't always need that level of accuracy, in fact it's not all that common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 You have a lot of answers that may or may not matter here. Having said that, they are truthful enough and should be kept in mind. Answering your situation directly: A wandering blade is almost certainly dull or ground wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 If it cut like that to start with, I'd return it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 I've got one. Better blade is a must for cut quality. Technique is needed to get an unwavering line. It's your pressure on the handle. You learn to stay steady and push straight. Workpiece needs to be well supported on both sides. It's got just enough play in it to deflect if you don't push evenly. Cutting a piece too long and then using a second cut for accuracy may help with long heavy hard to support boards. Mitering huge crown works well. Cutting strange compound angles back and forth between left & right gets better w practice. Once you learn the lock & unlock for angle & bevel it switches better than my 12" SCMS Dewalt ever did. Plus the saw occupies a Shallower footprint in a tight spot in my shop. For perfect 90 crosscuts I still prefer my sliding crosscut tablesaw. But changing angles on it isn't very fast. A crosscut sled on a tablesaw is better for reasonable length parts. But on really long stock the SCMS is the tool if you don't have the $$$ for a sliding crosscut tablesaw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 My glide mitre was just about dead on when I got it. Despite the fact that it looked like UPS brought the box out to the field for a game of "forklift soccer". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 15, 2018 Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 UPS behaves just a bit better when their headquarters are here, not massively better, just a bit. I hope they replaced the saw in a timely manner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matd Posted October 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 Thanks for the replies. After digging further, it looks like at least the arbor screw was bent , which warped the blade. Since I was still in the return window for Home Depot , I decided to take it back. This is the second saw I’ve had delivered with damage. Very frustrating. Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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