curlyoak Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 Invent one and get rich. I am done since this picture. Next sanding. I don't like refinishing. I do my own stuff. Each time it reminds me not to do that kind of work. It was waterlox. An additional coat was added 8 years ago. It was fine for a number of years. Then it started gettin gummy. Nasty. Constantly filled the scrapper. That is now behind me. I intend to finish it with General armRseal gloss, oil. I have watched a few videos on application and it looks like it shouldn't be a problem. But now I am tired and I will do the sanding next when the energy returns... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 A card scraper is best for that kind of work. They don't cost much but you have to learn how to sharpen & turn the edge into a tiny hook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 An oscillating tool with the scraper accessory is a power scraper of sorts, but I guess it would take forever to do the job on a table top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 Steve, I had the card scraper. And it has a hook. And I burnish the edge. The slow part is the gummy stuff was sticking to the scraper. But that is history and I am ready to sand. I cannot visualize what a power scraper might look like. But it needs to be a time saver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 For that kind of scraping, which we end up doing a lot of, I use scrapers like pro floor finishers use in the corners of rooms. They are sold by Horizon Forest Products, and have Red Devil blades in larger handles. I can usually get more done with the 1" one than the larger ones. Sharpening is on the spot with an 8" Mill Smooth file. I only use cabinet scrapers on bare wood. Doors in the picture required a whole day each of just scraping. Any light spots seen are just camera lens issues. They were scraped with a cabinet scraper once the 175 years of paint was removed down to bare wood. Several years later, they still look great, and the gloss finish is finally starting to dull just a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 Do yourself a favor and chemical strip. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 Too risky on historical, irreplaceable woodwork. Getting in a hurry is never a consideration. No deadlines. It just needs to end with the best result, and "save what remains" is always the top priority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 33 minutes ago, Tom King said: Too risky on historical, irreplaceable woodwork. Getting in a hurry is never a consideration. No deadlines. It just needs to end with the best result, and "save what remains" is always the top priority. That was not directed at you or what you do. I have chemical strip old pieces in the past with excellent results. Old finishes are usually thin and come right off. I’m not a fan of scrapping when chemical strip is an option. That’s just how I roll. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 Steve, I had the card scraper. And it has a hook. And I burnish the edge. The slow part is the gummy stuff was sticking to the scraper. But that is history and I am ready to sand. I cannot visualize what a power scraper might look like. But it needs to be a time saver. I did consider the chemical removers. The hardware store had around 10 choices. I felt like I was on a game show. Some are good and some are bad. Didn't want to pick the wrong one. I don't like scraping but with the choices I had Im OK with the top so far. I know I can do no harm scraping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 I would still use at least a citrus stripper. Whether I did or not a carbide scraper is a good inexpensive investment. I have this one and use it for many things. Easy to sharpen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 1 hour ago, gee-dub said: I would still use at least a citrus stripper. Whether I did or not a carbide scraper is a good inexpensive investment. I have this one and use it for many things. Easy to sharpen. Wish y’all wouldn’t do that, post neat stuff on here when I don’t need it, then I buy it and can’t find it when I do need it! Like an old lady with a tv remote and a QVC account 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 Citrus strippers don't use poles do they ? <grin> 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 I also had a carbide from Ace hardware. And one of those scrapers with 4 edges. And a set of card scrapers. And a heat gun. Tried it with and without the heat it seemed to be a little easier with the heat. There is still a little amber color on the wood but nothing to clog the sandpaper. Before I got going I took an 80g RO sander to see how far a disk would go. Just a touch on the trigger and the disk was loaded. I knew then it was going to be a dogfight. It did wear me out but I got it done and no blood. Next sanding...and now I need to re-do the edges of all my scrapers. Thats because of the goo I was scraping would stick to the tool. So cleaning damaged the edges. It got under the curl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 30 minutes ago, wdwerker said: Citrus strippers don't use poles do they ? <grin> I’ve seen some real lemons that did! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Steve Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 6 hours ago, AceHoleInOne said: Do yourself a favor and chemical strip. -Ace- Oh did you guys see their pulling a lot of chemical strippers from the shelves at retail outlets? Lowes, Home Depot, Sherwin Williams, Walmart are pulling anything with Methylene Chloride off the shelves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 Methylene Chloride is some really nasty stuff but it works. Maybe the danger is higher than they used to think, but I think they just don't trust the public to use all the proper procedures & protections plus the safe disposal of the now poisonous removed paint. One more reason why I switched to waterbourne finishes almost 20 years ago. Refinishing is a task I rarely even consider. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 13 hours ago, Minnesota Steve said: Oh did you guys see their pulling a lot of chemical strippers from the shelves at retail outlets? Lowes, Home Depot, Sherwin Williams, Walmart are pulling anything with Methylene Chloride off the shelves. Haven't noticed. Last time I purchased a gal can of MC was this summer at Lowes. But wouldn't surprise me. Don't the box store sell on consignment? So if the tree huggers are buying the citrus, why stock the good stuff. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 Don't get me wrong. I have done my share of scrapping over the years. I just don't have the patience to run one. Seem's, I can do a lot of damage catching an edge. Come on---you know you have...........tee hee! -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 I rarely do refinish work. I do not remember the last refinish I did. I put the first coat of General armRseal on the top. My first experience with general. I did play with a small piece of walnut. The top is 40 x 84. I could not work fast enough to get it to flow out even. I am thinking about adding some thinner to give me more time on the second coat. Any thoughts on adding thinner? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 Just a tiny bit of mineral spirits or naphtha can make a difference. Add slowly and cautiously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 I’ve done large table tops by hand with ARS. Don’t thin, you want the build, it’s a table top. You need to apply, shit and get, don’t over work it. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2018 Thinning is better. The second coat was better than the first, and the third better than the second. But it still is not evenly flowed out. I even saw a youtube with a handled pad applicator. What brush on varnish can I use on top that is compatible? Ideas appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 The picture does not reveal all. It is OK but not optimum. If this was smaller I feel I can get a uniform application. I just did not have enough time to work it. I'm thinking that if I got the right kind of roller I might get a better outcome. I'd be faster and I think I would get an even distribution with time to brush out what was needed. Is there a roller that will work? No bubbles. My experience makes me think can armrseal be applied to very large areas? Like flooring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 I think you are obsessing too much while applying. Apply to maybe a square foot quickly & move on ,it will flow out. All the extra strokes just make it worse . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 If applied with the grain you might run out of time. Will it flow out if you applied across the grain? Might be necessary across the grain with the bread board ends? Can it be applied with a roller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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