Ronn W Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 So let's just say that this is hypothetical...... Just say that I had one coat of poly applied to a flat surface am and doing my "betweeen coat" sanding (by hand) and, after wiping the dust away I have some shiny, low spots that I would like to get rid of. I figure that I could be a little more aggressive with the sanding to decrease the depth of the low spots so the next coat has a better chance of levelling them out. What if....in the process, I sanded throught the one coat to bare wood in a couple of spots. If I then apply a second coat of poly, will the area that was sanded through be visible??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 Just now, Ronn W said: So let's just say that this is hypothetical...... Just say that I had one coat of poly applied to a flat surface am and doing my "betweeen coat" sanding (by hand) and, after wiping the dust away I have some shiny, low spots that I would like to get rid of. I figure that I could be a little more aggressive with the sanding to decrease the depth of the low spots so the next coat has a better chance of levelling them out. What if....in the process, I sanded throught the one coat to bare wood in a couple of spots. If I then apply a second coat of poly, will the area that was sanded through be visible??? It should not be very noticeable on the first coat, gone after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted December 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 Gosh your quick......thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 I would thin the first coat to go down a bit more than usual to help it flow and level well. Between coat sanding shouldn't really be a sanding. Unless there are problem spots like your low shiney spots. If I get them, and I'm using a film forming finish, I will make the call if the next two levels will fill our not. If you did your prep well, they shouldn't be too deep and film finishes do build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 I will often put 2 thin coats on before sanding just to avoid the ease of sanding through. I scuff those low spots with a gray abrasive pad. Corners and narrow edges only get the gray pad. Sanding always stops just shy of any edge or corner. Vacuuming & wiping up every little speck of dust before the next coat is crucial. I use microfiber cloths with great caution because any rough areas can snag fibers so tiny they only show up when your applying the next coat. Cotton tee shirt rags don't pick up the super fine dust but they don't leave tiny fibers...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted December 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 Thanks wdwerker. I am starting to wish I had used a couple of applications of Aquacoat filler before applyling any finish. But for now, onward.........I think the low shiney spots in the grain will fill in with more coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 I have given low areas a couple spot treatment coats then follow with a full coat. I sand those areas with 320 -400 grit and a cork block to feather out the perimeter before the next coat. Make sure any area with a thicker layer of finish is completely dried. I always finish scraps alongside each project. Same sanding & prep as the project .The scrap is the last thing to get a coat. I only test the scrap for dryness, fingerprints don't matter there. Of course I spray a sanding sealer that dries in 30-45 minutes and it sands beautifully after an hour. Still have to be cautious of sand through. Once I achieve a smooth flat surface I only use the gray abrasive pad and the cork block to scuff between coats . Same techniques apply to most types of finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 “ What If “ sounds like “ I have a friend that ..... “. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted December 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 35 minutes ago, K Cooper said: “ What If “ sounds like “ I have a friend that ..... “. Well........yeah......maybe..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 That's just one step from "and one time at band camp ...." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 And I have a friend that put in a table saw blade backwards once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 1 hour ago, drzaius said: And I have a friend that put in a table saw blade backwards once. I did that with my band saw once. Didn’t cut so well.... *shrug* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 On 12/17/2018 at 10:40 AM, Chip Sawdust said: I did that with my band saw once. Didn’t cut so well.... *shrug* Oh, you just have to feed the wood from the other direction . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 2 hours ago, Mark J said: Oh, you just have to feed the wood from the other direction . Ummmm *scratches head* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 21, 2018 Report Share Posted December 21, 2018 First you have to re wire the motor to spin the other direction, then figure out a table that's flipped 180..... somewhere along here it all falls apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted December 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2018 On 12/20/2018 at 10:48 PM, wdwerker said: First you have to re wire the motor to spin the other direction, then figure out a table that's flipped 180..... somewhere along here it all falls apart. I was going to "like" this but you lost me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 22, 2018 Report Share Posted December 22, 2018 Bandsaw blade backwards with the motor direction reversed would cut in an upwards direction so the table would need to be flipped 180' .....that's where the idea falls apart. I had a long day and after a couple drinks that's how my twisted mind saw the logical progression of trying to make a bandsaw work with the blade on backwards. My grandfather was helping me build a bedroom in the basement so I could have a waterbed when I was a teen. He grabbed my fathers drill and was trying to drill studs for wiring. The spade bit wouldn't cut . He looked at it and declared they had sharpened the bit backwards, walked over to the grinder and reversed the bevels then went back to drilling the studs .He had never seen a reversable drill . 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.