IthacaDoc Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Hi everyone, I've received a lot of great input since posting a couple times last week, so here's my next question for all of you experienced folks.. I'm making built-in bookcases (lower cabinet, upper shelves) on either side of our antique fireplace surround which is old mahogany. As an alternative, I'm getting sapele. I'd appreciate your recommendations for finishing. This isn't a table top or desk, so it won't need a huge amount of protection. The mahogany is a fairly solid color, so I'd also prefer not to really bring out the stripey grain that sapele can have. I've seen a lot of comments about using Danish oil, dewaxed shellac, Arm-r-seal, and aquacoat. Is it necessary to fill the grain since I'm not looking for a glossy finish? I do want it to be smooth, though. Thanks for your comments!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I'm generally oppose to grain filling. Why would anyone want to make that beautiful wood look like plastic? Red oak is another story; those pores are big & deep enough to loose pets & small children in. I'd go with a few coats of an oil finish or just a couple of coats of wipe on poly, low sheen of course. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I am a fan of Sapele. The "stripey grain" you mentioned, for me is one of Sapele's more attractive features. However if you pick your stock it will not always show up. There is no need to fill the grain. I am not familiar with aquacoat, but any of the other finishes you mentioned will work nicely. One thing you should do is do test pieces to decide which finish you want to use, it really helps in deciding which finish meets your needs. Here are a couple of examples that show the difference in finish on Sapele. The first is a breakfast counter finished with Emmet's Good Stuff, I really like this for satin finishes, it is very easy and forgiving to apply, and buffs out to a nice satin finish. This is a kitchen island finished with 5 coats of shellac followed by 5 coats of lacquer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RichardA Posted June 19, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 25 minutes ago, drzaius said: I Red oak is another story; those pores are big & deep enough to loose pets & small children in. That explains those bumps that pop up when I'm working with red oak. 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IthacaDoc Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Thanks for the comments! Aquacoat is a grain filler, and from what you guys have said, it sounds like it probably isn't necessary for this. Bob: I agree that the stripes are beautiful.. they just won't look right next to the fireplace. I do want a brown look (like your counter) rather than a more blond color (the island). Does the Good Stuff bring out the color? I've used oil on a mahogany swing that looked beautiful, but I don't want to wait many days before I can add the topcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 3 hours ago, IthacaDoc said: Does the Good Stuff bring out the color? It does. But like I said make sure you test any finish on scrap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted June 20, 2019 Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 Do note that sapele will darken with time. When you install it fresh it's going to be lighter in color than when it ages for a year or 2. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Steve Posted June 20, 2019 Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 I always looked at grain filling as a practical manner rather than aesthetic. A table top you might want to fill the grain to make the surface easier to clean, especially that red oak where you could lose children in the table top. But a book case probably not as the open pores give you some aesthetic beauty. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted June 20, 2019 Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 Darrell Peart (furnituremaker.com) recently switched to using Livos Kunos oil on his projects. He uses mahogany and sapele extensively. I ordered some and tried it for the first time a few days ago. Wonderful stuff! He uses two coats of cocobolo and two topcoats of clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IthacaDoc Posted June 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 Bob, thanks. Yes, I'll have to try out some different finishes. I'm not used to buying stains and other products I may not use, but I know it's the price for getting the finish I'll prefer. Plus, if I'm not crazy about something, hopefully I can still use it on another project. Chestnut, yeah, that's the impression I'm getting. I'm assuming the bookcases will be a bit lighter than the fireplace for several years but will hopefully be similar eventually. Thanks, Mick. I'll look into that site! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 21, 2019 Report Share Posted June 21, 2019 @IthacaDoc, there are methods to accelerate the darkening of newly cut wood, (chemical, UV exposre, etc..) but test thoroughly on scraps of the same boards. These methods rely on interactions with substances already in the wood, which you can't control. The results CAN be stunning, but consistency is not to be expected. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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