*sigh*


collinb

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One of the things that frustrates me to no end is that I can cut and measure and fit and assemble and for some reason it never works according to plans. Even when I don't do it ad hoc but actually create a written plan. There's something wrong in my frame of mind that keeps things from working as they ought.

I tried to treat a project like I would a kit. I design and measure each part will be also noting that 3/4 plywood isn't 3/4. I even measure after cutting just to be certain it's what it should be. But I am missing something somewhere. there's an attention to detail I'm trying to practice but just can't seem to wrap my head around it.

this isn't the difference between amateur and professional. I seen shoddy professional work. This is a difference between novice and artisan. I am clearly a novice.

Yes I am going to straighten out the door faces.

still it should serve me well for a number of years and I may spend some tinkering time on its next week.

 

IMG_20190926_171517.jpg

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It looks like a perfectly well executed router table to me.  I'll say good job.

But if it's not working out "precisely" as you planned it may be, as Tom and Dr. Z said, the measuring.  I remember a few months back a thread on here about no two tape measures yieldng exactly the same measurement--and that probably neither of them is correct.  Sticking to one measuring tool in a project can help, but many people recommend using the parts themselves as the measuring tool.

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I’ve tried to do a few projects where I exactly model and plan each piece, and it never ends up as planned. If you were planning to have all pieces CNC cut, it would probably be fine but the human factor always gets in the way. Invariably, somewhere along the way I use the table saw rule instead of a tape measure, or accidentally measure to the wrong side of the blade, or forget to make all cuts for a certain dimension at the same time. Any little variance can work it’s way down the line and end up way off from the plan. And with making all cuts from a list, the problem isn’t caught until it’s too late. 
 

The projects I’ve been most satisfied with and proud of have had the least planning done ahead of time. That has forced me to use relative dimensioning and think through each part to ensure it is correct. This has also lead to some other mistakes, but overall it has made me a better woodworker. 
 

As with any creative hobby/profession, we are our own worst critics. It is good to reflect on our mistakes to improve, but don’t be too hard on yourself. My table saw stand has drawer fronts that are 2-3” too narrow because of a last minute design change that didn’t get updated throughout my cut list. Oops.

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3 hours ago, Mark J said:

It looks like a perfectly well executed router table to me.  I'll say good job.

Well, let's not sugar coat it. It honestly looks pretty bad, and I've had my share of projects that look no better. I think it's great that Collin sees & acknowledges that there are problems & has come forward asking for help.

But it's a shop piece, and that's the best kind of thing to work on to get the kinks worked out. Even though things do not look perfect, it is still perfectly functional.

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Collin, I think it looks great, no strings attached! ( some things just never go away). If I were to sum it up, I would include all above comments so, I won’t. For me, I like to mentally stay 2 or 3 steps ahead of my operation, especially when glue and/or expensive wood is concerned. It comes second nature if you do it regardless. 

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Thanks for the insights, especially about measuring/cutting incrementally instead of in advance. That should help.

It's sturdy and functional. Fortunately it's just "sande" from HD so it's not expensive material. About 1.5 sheets, so $75. Won't require much to replace for mtc.

Next, to stain.

As to making the drawers to fit the hole, that's been the toughest thing. There's no dimensioning for the slides. It measures about 7/8" and that seemed close enough. But I guess they don't make/sell them for this purpose.

**

One change I need to make is that the router sits at an angle per Freud's own holes. If I get a Freud blank then my machinist can drill so that the router is at such an angle that I won't need (and can return) the Router Raizer. The FT2000E has a nice big knob for position adjustment. The lock lever is a little out of the way in its current orientation.  (I could just redrill the current plate but I don't like holes that collect stuff. I've enough problem with that on my own.)

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