trouble w old King Seeley Bandsaw


Cerrillos

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I bought an old King Seeley 12” bandsaw-it was working ok until I decided to change the old blade out.
The new (correctly sized to factory specs) blade slips off. I can’t tighten this anymore as
the tightening screw pops out of its receiving end. The retaining spring is tight as can be.
(In other words, it's drawn up as tight as can be yet the blade slips off)
Don’t understand this -can the upper assembly be tweaked or moved so as to make the blade fit and stay on?
I have removed a tire in an attempt to make this saw useable-no dice.
 I can remove both tires and maybe get it to fit, but... Also, the saw is noisy as can be...any suggestions?

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I know nothing about that particular bandsaw, but just to throw in my two cents:

I have an Inca that once had a similar problem.  As I looked at it more closely, I noticed the blade tension adjuster had fallen out of its correct position, and was no longer actually tightening/moving the wheel.  Check there to make sure it's correct.

 

Photos help.

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On 2/3/2023 at 12:38 PM, Don Z. said:

I know nothing about that particular bandsaw, but just to throw in my two cents:

I have an Inca that once had a similar problem.  As I looked at it more closely, I noticed the blade tension adjuster had fallen out of its correct position, and was no longer actually tightening/moving the wheel.  Check there to make sure it's correct.

 

Photos help.

Will post a photo. Thanks!

 

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Measure the circumference of your blade to see if it's to big, set your blade on the floor mark the starting point of the measurement on the floor and the blade use a strip of blue tape on the floor if you don't want a mark on the floor roll the blade across the floor in a strait line making sure you don't loose contact with the floor ( I use a hand over hand to keep contact) when the blade rolls back to the mark on the blade mark the floor at that point measure from point to point that is the circumference of the blade. This will at least eliminate one possible problem.

 

 

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That design is slightly different than the one I have, so I may be all wet.

With the blade off, does the adjustment mechanism move the wheel freely, or not at all?  If it's not moving the wheel, then I would look to see if the threads are not engaged, if the nut is spinning, or if something else is going wrong.

Just guessing, the threads on the bottom of the adjuster screw look much cleaner than the rest of the screw.  Are they still engaging?  If the blade is off, can you raise the wheel by hand to try and get it to re-engage?  Just trying to figure out how it works.

In my case, the spring "moved" off its recess, and that caused my problem.  That doesn't seem to be the case here.  From what I can tell from the photo, the piece the axle is on should move "up" to tension the blade. I'd look around in there to see how exactly it's supposed to work.  Once you get it moving correctly with the blade off, you can try again with it on.

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On 2/5/2023 at 8:51 AM, Dave H said:

Measure the circumference of your blade to see if it's to big, set your blade on the floor mark the starting point of the measurement on the floor and the blade use a strip of blue tape on the floor if you don't want a mark on the floor roll the blade across the floor in a strait line making sure you don't loose contact with the floor ( I use a hand over hand to keep contact) when the blade rolls back to the mark on the blade mark the floor at that point measure from point to point that is the circumference of the blade. This will at least eliminate one possible problem.

 

 

Will try that when back in the shop tomorrow. I bought a box of "correctly sized blades" at a great Ebay price (Olson blades), so I hope they are not all rejects....

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On 2/5/2023 at 8:51 AM, Dave H said:

Measure the circumference of your blade to see if it's to big, set your blade on the floor mark the starting point of the measurement on the floor and the blade use a strip of blue tape on the floor if you don't want a mark on the floor roll the blade across the floor in a strait line making sure you don't loose contact with the floor ( I use a hand over hand to keep contact) when the blade rolls back to the mark on the blade mark the floor at that point measure from point to point that is the circumference of the blade. This will at least eliminate one possible problem.

 

 

All correct, size-wise. 

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I may be all off here, but please verify a few things for us. Do your wheels currently have tires? I cannot see that in the picture. Are you sure you are turning the adjustment knob the correct direction? I cannot see which part of that armature should be moving. It does not seem logical, that tightening should take the threaded rod out of its engagement. 

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From the included image, I'm going to guess that the casting at the very end of the threaded rod is the moving part. Turning the rod clockwise (viewed from above) should drive the threads into that casting, lifting it against the pressure of the spring on the stationary part. If the threaded rod 'pops out' of the moving block, as stated in the original post, the screw is either turning the wrong way, or the threads are stripped.

That's my guess, from what I can see.

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I think you and I are on the same page, R. The green would be alignment pins, and the blue parts are the moving parts? That would mean that may not be a jam nut.
 

Can you verify the green pins are clean and lubricated? Have you tried what was suggested above, by raising the adjustable wheel without that adjustment screw to verify it travels properly? If threads are stripped, that looks like a deep repair is needed. If it just got turned backwards and fell apart, that might be a tricky, but easy save. 

60139069-BE9F-415E-ABB4-0AF03BF60A70.jpeg

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I got the problem fixed-I'm not so sure I can explain it, but all of a sudden, there is more thread on that tensioning rod-it seemed as though the whole BLUE assembly was moving freely, even tho the threaded rod was not effective in giving me enough slack even to force a blade on...there was no way I could put on my new tires and hope to get the blade on.

Today, it seems as if the WD did its job-all of a sudden, I've got enough "slack" on that threaded rod to not only put on a blade, but also to tension it properly. got the saw humming (well, after I tightened up/quieted the belt guard).../

THANK YOU for all the help, everyone! Bill

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I love it when that happens! I turned my dust collector on and nothing happened I figured it was the switch so I took it apart to see if it was something obvious. I didn't see anything I put it back together got on line looking for a replacement switch. I had several possibility's, I went out to the shop to look a the switch box and decided to plug the DC back in and hit the switch and now it worked and I still don't know exactly how I fixed it. that was 3-4 yrs ago. Though I would think WD40 was the solution in your case I'm glad it worked out. 

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