Powered Miter saw


BillyJack

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I remember working at Blystone cabinets installing cabinets. Owner had gotten rid of an older Makita with set positions and went t9 a newer Makita with a roller bearing. The saw tooth notch on the older sa pe was much better than the bearing stop.. If I hadn’t have use the older saws, I would hate Makita. Just a flaw in a new design..

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I do, but use it for trim projects now, not cross cutting things in the woodshop. Not enough space in my little shop to keep the Craftsman 10" slider set up. No matter how I set it up I can't seem to get it to cut 90* the whole cut. At this point I think I'll sell it and get a Dewalt 12" non-slider the next time I have to do any trim work.

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I do but I do more construction that what is considered woodworking.  When I do woodworking, it is also used.  I think I bought my first powered miter box in the '80's, but didn't like it, and disposed of it some kind of way.  I had used a Langdon-Acme for over 30 years and it still gets used occasionally.

The one I have now is the first one I really liked.  A Dewalt 708 and still use it because it still cuts true.  I think it still cuts true because I have never locked the blade up in anything, probably because I never do a push cut.

I have another one set up to cut aluminum that is a non slider.

I also have two radial arm saws that I use.  One set to only cut accurate 90's, and the other keeps a dado blade on it for various uses.

I almost never, and maybe never crosscut on a table saw because it scares me.  I can't even remember ever doing it.

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With smaller 10” miter saws you get pretty good cuts. On larger 12” sliding miter saws it’s easy to see why some cuts if not done carefully can be off a bit. A good RAS can fpgpdo great angles, but depend on which RAS you have. Poor blades, saws or poor usage have left many woodworkers disappointed over the tears with these tools. 

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