Hammer5573 Posted January 20 Report Share Posted January 20 A friend asked me to build a table that he found on the internet for his chessboard. I agreed to build it sight unseen. When I downloaded the photo I realized that I may be in over-my-head. The base and table top is pretty straightforward. The casing for the table is the problem (see photo). The corners are rounded and I’m trying to decide how to do this? I’m considering assembling the casing using mitered joints, dovetailing the upper and lower drawer blades, then rounding the corners using a bandsaw? Does this make sense; any better ideas..?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 20 Report Share Posted January 20 I don't see any joint lines, so my guess is a veneer is involved. You idea should work, but the corner radius implies a fairly thick stock, or filler blocks inside the corners. Personally, I'd voice my concerns about the construction techniques, and ask if your friend is willing to accept some visible joint lines, or a slight design modification, if you can't do veneer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer5573 Posted January 20 Author Report Share Posted January 20 On 1/20/2024 at 11:45 AM, wtnhighlander said: ask if your friend is willing to accept some visible joint lines, or a slight design modification, if you can't do veneer. I don’t think that joint lines are an issue. I’m considering using butt joints reinforced with dowels and internal gussets. I’m thinking that this would place the joint line a little more to the side making it less conspicuous. Any thoughts about this plan..? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 20 Report Share Posted January 20 The internal gusset should allow you to cut away a lot of the corner without sacrificing strength. A butt joint corner will reveal some end grain, which will be a distinct change of tone and texture at the joint. My personal preference would be to miter the corner and add the gusset, then cut the radius. The grain transition would be even around the corner that way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Newman Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 "I agreed to build it sight unseen. When I downloaded the photo I realized that I may be in over-my-head." --Hammer5573 I find it is best never to say "I'll build it" sight unseen or without an actual hands-on inspection of what is to done or wanted. Since you are having some doubts, walk away. I have learned the hard way at times to the warnings/concerns from the Little Voice in my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3nry Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 From the photo, the top is clearly mitred, but it's hard to see what's happening on the edges. I'd mitre the edges too, so the joint line and change towards end grain from rounding the corner match on both the edge of the top, the sides, and the lower moulding. When cutting the side pieces, start at one side of the drawer, and use the same board all the way round to the other side of the drawer so that the grain runs continuously round the joint line at all four corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ronn W Posted January 22 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 22 The detail that concerns me is what appears to be a change in the surface of the apron (a ripple) that aligns with the ripple in the edge of the top. While my original thought was " veneer the apron" . That ripple would be easier with solid wood. if, on the other hand, it is not a ripple but a change in the plane of the apron of about 1/16" it coul be accomplished by gluing a 1/16" piece to the apron. Of course it could be veneered to match the apron. Before you decide on whether to attempt this, you might try your friend some design variations of our own. Slight changes could really affect the dificulty of the piece. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer5573 Posted January 22 Author Report Share Posted January 22 On 1/21/2024 at 8:13 PM, Ronn W said: The detail that concerns me is what appears to be a change in the surface of the apron (a ripple) that aligns with the ripple in the edge of the top. The “ripple” is there and has caused me a lot of consternation. I’ve included the ripple in the template that I’ll use to mill the piece. I’m currently making a mockup out of scrap lumber to determine if it’s feasible to do the milling with a bandsaw. I considered using veneer, minus the ripple; however, I thought that I would need to steam bend it to make the contours and don’t think that I would have enough open time to clamp it up. Your thoughts..? PS: this has become a personal challenge and I don’t want to modify it if I don’t have to 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William R Posted January 22 Report Share Posted January 22 I don’t know if you’ve done any searching on the internet but I’ve found the same on another site with a better photo that you submitted hope it helps 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer5573 Posted January 22 Author Report Share Posted January 22 On 1/22/2024 at 2:38 PM, William R said: I don’t know if you’ve done any searching on the internet but I’ve found the same on another site with a better photo that you have. Everything helps; thank you..!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted January 23 Report Share Posted January 23 On 1/22/2024 at 12:53 PM, Hammer5573 said: Your thoughts..? OK. I would consider using commercial veneer that is 1/42" thick. no problem with the corner radius if you make a curve caul from cutoff piece at each corner. The "proud part fo each side bewtween the ripples could be made using the same veneer for the exposed surface but back it up with 2 more layers of veneer. That would be approx 1/16" thick. Or just use a 1/16" piece of matching lumber as backup. I enjoy playing with veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 23 Report Share Posted January 23 @Ronn W is very experienced with veneer, but in the clearer photo that @William R posted, you can clearly see the miter joint line on the upper frame. This makes me think the case is mitered as well. I believe your idea about cutting the "ripple" at the bandsaw is a perfectly valid method for making the case from solid stock. Given the quality of MY bandsaw (and my skill using it!), I would probably glue up the mitered case first, then cut the radius of the ripple transition as a groove across each board, using a straightedge and a round-nose router bit. Then saw from the corner into the radius groove with a guide fence to keep it all straight. If I tried to saw out the transition, there is no doubt it would be crooked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer5573 Posted January 23 Author Report Share Posted January 23 On 1/22/2024 at 8:50 PM, wtnhighlander said: I would probably glue up the mitered case first, then cut the radius of the ripple transition as a groove across each board, using a straightedge and a round-nose router bit. Then saw from the corner into the radius groove with a guide fence to keep it all straight. If I tried to saw out the transition, there is no doubt it would be crooked! You’ve definitely got me thinking..! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted January 23 Report Share Posted January 23 @Hammer5573, might we look forward to a journal for this project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hammer5573 Posted January 23 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 23 On 1/23/2024 at 9:11 AM, Mark J said: @Hammer5573, might we look forward to a journal for this project? Bits and pieces, only because I’m about 30% completed. Here is the first bit. It’s a mockup of a corner using scrap 5/4” walnut. I chose the butt joint because it had better joint approximation than a miter. I’m planning to use sequential pieces cut from the same board in the final construction. Your opinions are certainly welcome since this is only a mockup. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted January 23 Report Share Posted January 23 I think that it is looking good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 ^^^ I second that motion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William R Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 I think you’re off to a fine start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 Well done sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 What everybody above said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hammer5573 Posted January 25 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 25 I’ve made a lot of progress since yesterday. The casing is cut and installed on the bottom and the drawer structure has been fitted. I’m preparing to begin constructing the drawer next. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 Impressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hammer5573 Posted January 27 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 27 The casework is nearly completed. I need to decide how to complete the top. It won’t have a chessboard since my friend has a board that I made for him previously. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William R Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 Great work. So when do you start mine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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