jrfurman Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 So I bought this planer super cheap but it doesn't have any in or out tables. Would I get good results from: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UIW5FI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=AIXIO4R8WFOSJ or http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UIVXYW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&m=AIXIO4R8WFOSJ Instead? I'm new to wood working, and I buy most of my tools used. The cost of buying the replacement parts would be greater than what I paid for the planer. Thanks, JR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 the tables are nothing more then a surface to hold your lumber and keep it from diping or sliding on you. just build one or make a stand that you can put planer on that is same hight as a long surface in you shop like a counter top. i plan on building mine onto a counter that way i can kill two birds with one stone. have a outfeed and wont take up as much room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrfurman Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Well I went out to tackle such a feat tonight and got a big chuckle, on these units the bed raises up and down. So a fixed height table isn't going to work. Oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Get yourself some roller stands set one on the outfeed side and one on the infeed set at the proper hieghth. Or it looks like the bed of the machine is cast iron drill and tap the faces of the bed and mount a homemade infeed, and outfeed table directly to the bed, or you could use a flat piece of plywood, or mdf cut it to the width of the bed of the machine make it long enough to over hang the bed by as much as you would want for infeed and outfeed tables put some formica on top and mount this to the bed with some taped screws, of course you would lose some of the thickness depth. hope one of these thoughts helps. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 I'd suggest a variation on the roller stand, then. Both Woodcraft and Wood magazines have published variants of this particular option. Basically, they boil down to a 2x4 frame with a 1x4 upper portion. Two slots are routed in the 1x4, to go over a pair of carriage bolts that go from the inside of the 2x4 frame to star knobs on the outside (so you can tighten and loosen the stand to raise or lower it). The top portion of the stand is a fixed axle, one variant I've seen used PVC pipe. I wish I remember the size of the pipe, but this sits above the 1x4, with the tops of the 1x4 supporting the rollers. The construction of the adjustable portion, if I remember right, was a simple butt joint, but a shallow dado might help align it later. the most effective stand I saw, and I don't remember which one had it, was a light trestle foot. One of the designs included options to stack several of them together, to reduce the amount of floor space they take up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrfurman Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Great suggestions, I pondered your suggestion higtron with the overall table. But the bed has two rollers that would negate their use. I thought about a similar thing too jHop but I'm worried about the cantilever force, however I could get some flat bar and bend it and use the wood and PVC...that would be very reasonable. Thanks guys, I like the PVC deal...I've been trying to get some rollers on Ebay too. http://content.wmhto...ls/m_708538.pdf I wish there was more of an edge to help on the cantilever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 I guess the question that I would ask here is, is it worth it to just buy the actual tables? How much did you pay for the planer? Just because they would cost more than what you paid for the planer, doesnt mean that it would not be worth it. In my eyes, a good infeed and outfeed setup that you dont have to mess around with it worth it. Like you said, the table moves up and down on this planer, not the head, that means that every time that you adjust the thickness, you need to adjust the roller stands or whatever you decide to use. I have to say, for me, it would be worth it to get the right thing. depending on what you paid for the planer. Just my $.02. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 I have to agree with Sac. I bought a new DW 735 planer and it did not come with the tables out of the box. It has a fixed bottom surface and the head moves up and down. It was a fairly expensive planer for a bench top style but, I still sprung for the extra money for the tables. Best money that I ever spent. By the time you mess with desiging and building something the "will work" on your machine, you more than likely spend as much money and alot more time than if you just let go fo a few bucks and bought them in the first place. You can always get more money but time is real hard to replace. Just my two cents worth. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 The Jet 15" planers NEED the outfeed / infeed rollers. They do more than just support the stock. The are adjusted/tilted up and down so that you can control the snipe. The infeed likes it best at just a hair high on the outside and the outfeed needs to be tilted much higher than the table to prevent snipe since the planer does not have a pressure bar. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Static_23 Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 i payed 225 for a 15" jet planer and im doing what Sac said. going to get them straight from jet. believe it or not its cheaper that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Make sure they sell you the rollers and the bolts along with the height adjuster set screws. I don't know if they will come with the out feed rollers. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrfurman Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Static_23 do you have a total cost? Yea when I started this thread, I was thinking this thing was like my old free lunch box planer, the bed being static. I just find it hard to come to terms with spending $350 on two flat iron bars and six rollers lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 They can be just a smooth platten. The powermatic is the same planer except it uses cast iron wings instead of rollers. I guess it could even be wood with a smooth top. It just needs to be tiltable. If you look at your pic. The three bolt holes I think are 5/16 course thread. Right below those holes has a chip in the paint from the adjusters that screw in from the outside, they tilt the rollers up. Jet's snipe terrible if the infeed or outfeed are level. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlawyer Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 As dwacker mentions; the powermatic uses cast-iron wings on the very same planer... I would consider buying those and fitting them to that planer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Static_23 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 i actually decided to make a torsion box for the table and if your looking for a dust collection adapter go to jet for it i think there under $20 or over 50 on ebay or amazon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
over40pirate Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Do you really need extra tables? On my old Boice Crane planer I don't use any. I just feed it in, holding the back end until it is 1/2 way in, then switch and support the end coming out. I guess it I was planing a 4x6 beam, it would be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.