Popular Post gee-dub Posted March 31, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 This is a combination of several jigs I have seen over the years. I use straight grain pecan (because it was handy) for a runner and built the bed from ply and tempered hardboard. The pin fixture that holds the part to be tapered is built in such a way as to free me from having to hang onto offcuts to help secure the next side to be cut; all sides can be cut without further adjustment. Mark your layout lines for the small end and the "stop" position for the taper. You put a hole in the center of the foot end which slips over the pin. Line up the smallend and stop lines with the blade-side edge of the jig. You can taper one, two, three or all sides. The jig can also be used as a straightline jig for boards with no straight edge to run against the fence. I also use it for angled rips like for these arms that I use on my clamp rack fixtures. The catch board has rare earth magnets on the bottom to keep it secured in position. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialbyfire Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I like this jig idea. It's very versatile. Are 4 t tracks necessary for the base? Did you use that many due to flexing issues with the top portion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Interesting. I basically built Jay Bates jig, except I have a miter bar instead of the fence for reference. It's fine, actually, it's great, but it looks way more "rough" than yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 gee, really neat looking jig. Cliff, I see extra holes in the base of yours. Are they for narrower stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted March 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 1 hour ago, trialbyfire said: I like this jig idea. It's very versatile. Are 4 t tracks necessary for the base? Did you use that many due to flexing issues with the top portion? Thanks guys. I decided I needed the four tracks based on experience from wanting holddowns in additional position for varying purposes. On a previous version I just drill a spare hole and attached the holddown where I needed it. After a few of these I figured out that four would handle the positions I needed most often. There is no "right" place for these. It will vary with what you do ;-) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 @Cliff & @gee-dub Thanks i was trying to figure a way out how to do a table saw taper jig easily. Looking at cliff's picture i realized i could use it to square up the edge of rough cut lumber as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Yeah I absolutely had to as my jointer was down at the time I wanted to start a project. It worked great. Only issue I had is that I was using 8/4 walnut (little thicker actually) and my table saw could take off part of it but it would freak out if I tried to take an 8 inch wide piece and cut 2 inches off. It just came to a stop. That has nothing to do with the jig though. So it added an extra step where I had to go cut an 8" piece into 4 2-ish inch pieces at the band saw, then bring it back over and joint it on the jig. 10 hours ago, K Cooper said: gee, really neat looking jig. Cliff, I see extra holes in the base of yours. Are they for narrower stock? Yup there is a grid of holes. Every 3 inches. So my piece is 36" x 12" so i got 3 columns of holes and 11 or 12 rows. That way I can set up a variety of pieces. It's like a worst version of the original posters tracks. His ability to adjust is much better than mine overall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 34 minutes ago, Cliff said: Yeah I absolutely had to as my jointer was down at the time I wanted to start a project. It worked great. Only issue I had is that I was using 8/4 walnut (little thicker actually) and my table saw could take off part of it but it would freak out if I tried to take an 8 inch wide piece and cut 2 inches off. It just came to a stop. That has nothing to do with the jig though. So it added an extra step where I had to go cut an 8" piece into 4 2-ish inch pieces at the band saw, then bring it back over and joint it on the jig. Not enough power, or things were binding? With an unsupported edge i can imagine that taking large cuts may not work that well but your table saw should be able to cut 8/4 walnut. I was making 2.25" cuts in oak last night on my 1-3/4 hp saw and it didn't even bog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Honestly can't tell you. I'm still new enough at this that I don't understand if its not enough power or if it's a binding issue. I felt like it was power. It's supposed to be 1 1/2 HP. Honestly, had this thing a year and I'm finding it's limitations pretty quickly. I'm ready for a Sawstop. My budget isn't though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 This is a great jig. I've built a simple edge jointing jig, and have thought of making a taper option, and like you've I thought they share enough in common to be one single jig. I will keep this in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 We all have jigs of one kind or another, I have several versions of G's that I made and use. Toggle 's are necessary, as many as you need,use them.. Fingers are not replaceable Yet! Toggles are! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 I normally make a disposable jig with Brad nails and hold down clamps whenever I need a taper. It's probably time for me to make a permanent and adjustable jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 gee-dub earlier this year after 10 years of using a clamp cart I went to wall hangers to free up floor space. I really wish I would ahve seen this before, now I want to make hangers like you to get some wall space back LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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