Popular Post gee-dub Posted April 5, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 I am a G&G fan and generally stick to this style when making items for others. This piece is more modern-lined and purpose specific. Material is pecan, mahogany (pulls) and maple (back), construction is M&T and floating panels. Backboard is ship lap beaded maple. Finish is an oil varnish blend applied by hand. The pics are in room light in the evening and in sunlight through the windows. Sorry about the chair spindle shadows in the daylight picture. I have no skill with a camera. The drawers in the upper are side hung. The 8 drawers in the lower are actually 4 bins hung on full extension metal glides for storing kitchen appliances. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Nice and clean! Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Very nice work. I like how you used the sap wood to enhance the piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Yes. I like that centered sap wood. Very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 5 hours ago, Mike. said: Nice work! The inlay doors look great. I feel like I have seen this before. Was it posted somewhere else? Thanks all. Yes, I'm sure this is out there. I forgot to show the pullout. This is my landing pad when bringing groceries in. The IKEA fixture it replaced can be seen to the left. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlau Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 gee dub it sure looks nice, maybe some day i could make something like that:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary-ks Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Is it anchored to the wall somehow? With that pull out it could tip couldn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southwood Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Very nice gee dub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Nice work ! Pecan is closely related to hickory but I think it looks better, either that or you wasted a lot of wood to cut so much clean clear sections ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkrusen Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Man that looks great. I really like that sapwood accent. Nicely done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted April 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 6 hours ago, wdwerker said: Nice work ! Pecan is closely related to hickory but I think it looks better, either that or you wasted a lot of wood to cut so much clean clear sections ! Thanks again everyone. Hickory and pecan hickory are indeed related and each comes in a few varieties. The pecan I get is generally light in color but, can be as red as red oak, ugly mottles, wild and even curly (tiger) . If you have the wherewithal to make your own boards out of an array of stock you can get some interesting stuff. Generally all my projects start something like this: A dresser: This hutch: A lowboy: I'm a bit twisted in that I find material selection one of the more fun parts of a project. The material that doesn't get a starring role is very usable as a secondary wood. The pecan was really tough and after the project nearly every cutter I used on it took a trip to the sharpener's. 12 hours ago, Gary-ks said: Is it anchored to the wall somehow? With that pull out it could tip couldn't it? In SoCal we are raised with Mother Nature doing the Watusi when you least expect it. Although I built locations for wall straps into this piece I have not used them. The top section is mechanically attached to the bottom versus the gravity method used in less earthquake prone areas. That combined with the sheer weight of the piece make it stable even with a few bags of groceries on the pullout. I did the full-on "lean on it" test prior to deciding to leave the wall straps off. If I show up even thinner than I am some day you'll know it was a bad decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 I like to use French cleats on pieces that might tip but I am guessing straps would handle the vertical thrust from an earthquake more reliably. I hope you never have to ride out the big one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 by mechanically attached ... what do you mean? ...just found this so I figured I would resurrect it for a question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 16 minutes ago, bushwacked said: by mechanically attached ... what do you mean? ...just found this so I figured I would resurrect it for a question I'm sure he'll answer this shortly, but I'm imaging he means there is an actual fastener between the top and bottom. Probably some sort of concealed bold, since you'd presumable want to be able to separate it for transport reasons. Really I'm posting to ask my own question though. I notice the drawer sides are split, not that this is the first time I've seen it, but what drives that decision? Is it a weight saving issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Top and bottom separate. Connection is via long #10 screws into the upper's "legs" from below. These are at opposing angles (kind of like toe-nailing), one screw per post. Earthquake survival is via straps between fixtures and the wall that are so familiar to those of us that grew up where the ground moves. As to the drawers . . . if you mean 'why don't they go all the way across?' then yes, these would be too long to be very usable and are divided to make them more workable. If you mean why do they look like two drawer fronts on one bin, that is aesthetics versus function ;-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 55 minutes ago, gee-dub said: Top and bottom separate. Connection is via long #10 screws into the upper's "legs" from below. These are at opposing angles (kind of like toe-nailing), one screw per post. Earthquake survival is via straps between fixtures and the wall that are so familiar to those of us that grew up where the ground moves. As to the drawers . . . if you mean 'why don't they go all the way across?' then yes, these would be too long to be very usable and are divided to make them more workable. If you mean why do they look like two drawer fronts on one bin, that is aesthetics versus function ;-) Thanks but I actually meant, why are the drawer sides two pieces, as in the piece with the drawer slide, and the thinner piece right above it. Why not just one single board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Doh! I get it now. That is for visibility and ease of access. We think of them as bins more than drawers. They hold large cookware, sink top appliances like food processor or large mixers and all the paraphernalia that goes with them. The open sides allow us to see what we're reaching in after but, still offer some support so that taller items don't try to fall out or tip over. In practice the drawers could probably have been shallower and done without the upper rails. Hindsight is always sooo much better than the original plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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